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nissan
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
I am hoping someone can help.
I have a 2011 Gu Auto.

I am going to install 'Marks4wd' Hydraulic brake booster kit.
First I have to remove the old one.

Does the brake reservoir detach from the master cylinder?
If so, does it just pry off, or is there a trick to it?
I need the reservoir off, so I can get to the brake lines below and behind master cylinder.
I have drained the reservoir already, and undone one brake line.
They are so tight, my 10mm spanner is expanding as i try to turn it. Not cheap spanners either. tried 4 different brands, all do the same.
However, I am finding it difficult to get any purchase on the other brake lines attached to the master cylinder.
So removal of the reservoir will help.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Should be able to pull the master cylinder off the booster and remove the booster without undoing any of the brake lines.
And you want a flare nut spanner for the brake line fittings. They are like a 6 point ring spanner with the end cut out to slip over the brake line.
 

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2003 GUIII - TD27T
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115 Posts
Another tip for the brake lines is to place the open end of a 1/4" spanner around the brake line and butt it up to the flare nut,
then use a hammer and punch and give it a few love taps, helps break the threads loose before you try and undo it.

can be interesting trying to hold a 1/4" spanner and punch in the same hand though,
but the small spanner is kinda nescessary to stop the punch messing up the flare nut.
 

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2010 GU DX CRD Grenade :)
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If no joy with either of the above, I have seen crows foot spanner attachments that go on the end of a ratchet available at supercheap...
 

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nissan
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Discussion Starter #5
Should be able to pull the master cylinder off the booster and remove the booster without undoing any of the brake lines.
And you want a flare nut spanner for the brake line fittings. They are like a 6 point ring spanner with the end cut out to slip over the brake line.
Ta,
But can't get booster out without taking master cylinder out, can't get master cylinder out without removing brake lines.
Off to shop today to buy set of flare nut spanners. Will keep informed.

Ta.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Bought the right tools. Still no luck, without busting anything.
I've done plenty of jobs on GU, none as stubborn as this.
Sprayed with CRC, hammer and punch, flare spanner so tight it is hard to even get on or off.
Won't even budge 1mm. Yes, i am turning in the right direction.
Off to the mechanics to pay $800 to get job done.
Who uses theadlock to secure their brake lines? Or do they oxyweld them, so nobody can undo them.
 

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Im not too familiar with the gu engine bay but is it not at all possible to pull the master off the booster and bend the steel lines enough towards the engine or battery to give enough room to get the master out.
On the gq there is a splitter block the brake lines split off to fronts and rears thats bolted to the chassis just under the brake master which if you unbolt will give yiu a bit more flexability in the lines. I imagine this is the same on the gu.
However i have cut my battery box out and dont have a typical motor in the engine bay. But you dont need to move the master far to get the booster out.

Nothing worse than being beaten by a stubborn nut and having to pay someone else
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ta,
But there is no room at all in a GU. You can undo the bolts on the booster and move it 1-2cm, but in no way are you getting it out. If you want to try and bend the brake lines, nope. Imagine if you pinch/rupture/break one, then it starts to be a nightmare, physically, mentally, and financially.
I have the time and patience, but when it is not happening, you pay someone else.

Thanks.
 

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1998 2.8GU wagon
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I had a similar problem when I fitted my braided lines. I had some luck with Loctite freeze spray. Another trick is to get a ring spanner, preferably single hex, cut a slot in it to go over the line & clamp it on with vice grips. There are some good flare nut wrenches available that clamp down as you put load on them, but I couldn't find them in Australia. There are some wrenches advertised on TV that have pivoting jaws that clamp tighter as you turn them which might work, but call now & we'll throw in a free set of steak knives.
 

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Show us a pic of the situation. The brake lines are quite forgiving and easily manipulated carefully by hand without damage.
 

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My bad. I had not thought about the difference with cars fitted with abs.
The GU booster and master i just put in my gq were obviously not from a model with abs. Hence why i couldnt visualise your problem.
I hope you get it sorted without having to fork out for the mechanic
 
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