[Larsonax]

Hi. Tachometer, oilpressure, and temp gauge, normally stops working for a few days and then start working again. Now they have been dead for a month.
I have been checking fuses and connections. i also checked behind the meters. Its like its a bad connection somewhere but i cant find it. Any ideas??
Lars

 

[Larsonax]

Its a 1986 nissan patrol 3.3sd

 

[geeyoutoo]

Bad earthing?

 

[Larsonax]

Yes maybee. But where?

 

[geeyoutoo]

Yes maybee. But where?

Process of elimination mate, you can only follow cabling.

 

[Larsonax]

Only hard work then.. as usual

 

[Swero]

The gauges have 12v supply I believe. Is it a Spanish or Japanese model? Spanish models have a separate voltage converter to supply the gauges.

 

[Larsonax]

The gauges have 12v supply I believe. Is it a Spanish or Japanese model? Spanish models have a separate voltage converter to supply the gauges.

I dont know if it japan or spanish model but its only 24 v from/to the fuses. Is it a voltage converter somwhere under the dashboard?
The dashboard background light is working

 

[Swero]

The convertor, if equipped, is located beneath the steering column and above the pedals. It's a little black box with ribs for heat dissipation. You can reach it by taking of the black plastic cover.
The bulbs in the dashboard are 24v.

 

[Larsonax]

The convertor, if equipped, is located beneath the steering column and above the pedals. It's a little black box with ribs for heat dissipation. You can reach it by taking of the black plastic cover.
The bulbs in the dashboard are 24v.

Can it be this one

 

[Swero]

Yes, that's the one. I've replaced mine with a very cheap converter, believe it was a 10amp version. It only serves the gauges and radio. I've chosen a version with a constant and a switched 12v output. the constant output is to supply the radio, otherwise your presets will be lost everytime the ignition is switched off.

 

[Larsonax]

The converter is working. 24v in and 12 v out. Any moore ideas

 

[Larsonax]

Yes, that's the one. I've replaced mine with a very cheap converter, believe it was a 10amp version. It only serves the gauges and radio. I've chosen a version with a constant and a switched 12v output. the constant output is to supply the radio, otherwise your presets will be lost everytime the ignition is switched off.

The converter is working. 24v in and 12 v out. Any moore ideas

i put 12v direct on no 1, wich should be power supply, but nothing happens. 10.3.5 is probably signal and there is no earth cable.
I think its time to say goodbye to this car.

 

[Swero]

Maybe this can help. It's in French, but on the 1st figure, no1 is 12v supply after ignition and 7 is constant 12v supply, 3 is masse. 8 RPM meter, 11 tank, 12 water temp 13 oil pressure. Do you get a reading when the signal wire is touched with a test lamp? Could be a bad connection, probably on the combination meter itself as I think there are no other connectors, but better check this. Try to see if you have continuity on the wires.
Finding electrical errors can be a PIA but the mostly they are causes by bad or loose connectors, bad earthing or a blown fuse