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Master Coalroller
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Those main bearing shells look alright, you’ll replace them anyhow. As long as the crank is unscored, nothing to worry about there.
When these straight 6 engines get unbalanced there will be some funny markings in the main bearing shells, there’s a lot of weight in a straight 6 crank due to the need for large counterbalancing component, and they can wag themselves a bit within the boreline of the crank axis.
By all means get another set of local eyes on your build, but unless there’s scoring through the soft bearing material that is matched to scoring on the crank, it looks to me that your crank shells are pretty normal.
Also as said before, use a ball micrometer in the bores and determine the condition before jumping to a full blown rebuild. Purchasing, pulling and resetting liners, decking and rebating etc will cost a fair bit. If it’s not necessary then save the $2K or more and be back on the road.
As far as rebuild kit quality goes do some research on the forum, I usually do the research per job at hand. Less brain cells retained on memorizing information easily researched lol. I wouldn’t necessarily go for top shelf items on a standard build. For big PSI boosted engines, well its a different story. For the average build its attention to detail and correct process that’ll provide you a good result you can be proud of.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
sure well I do want to put on the borg so will make sure of it all and take around to local to measure up
I started measuring the oil clearances but put in the wrong plastigauge lol blue instead of green will still measure then check again with the green
 

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Might be better off seeing if patrol apart are getting anymore short blocks. They were under 5k

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Master Coalroller
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Cheers, it'd be pretty nice to be able to order a short motor now and then

So the short motor comes with timing case dowels, studs and... the oil squirter of all things lol
 

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Cheers, it'd be pretty nice to be able to order a short motor now and then

So the short motor comes with timing case dowels, studs and... the oil squirter of all things lol
They were like 4300 i think last time i looked gone up abit now. But if you wanted a good rebuild and had the rest of the bits it would be hard to go past

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Master Coalroller
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Correct the oil ports are the "O" ring locations, the larger is all coolant.
Pretty sure the OEM gasket should be a thin rubber coated Stainless steel plate. If so, don't scratch it as the purpose it to prevent electrolysis due to all the different metals involved. I always put a fine smear of CopperMax on this gasket and a little anti-seize on the threads and under the bolt head surfaces.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
yeah I put my knock in for a short motor but there's 15 other interested so I guess I'm outer luck there
thanks boundry I've got a new gasket I'll throw on as I bought the full gasket kit from partsouq 150 only thing I feel I' saved money lol
 

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Discussion Starter #95
hi guys if you run your eyes over these pictures of my crank I know the nose is sus
finding it hard to send it all away big fence sitter
all feedback Is very valuable
thanks again jono
 

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Master Coalroller
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Your rear main has a groove? If so make sure you fit the seal a bit short so it doesn't drop into the groove.

Liner pic isnt very good, can't really see anything. Who pulled the liners? They didn't report anything?
 

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Master Coalroller
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Ok having a second look the liner isn’t pulled yet. So in that pic is there marks where someone’s had a go at knocking out the liner from below?
 

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Discussion Starter #99
yeah boundary there's a 10x 2 -3 mm chunk missing up against the bottom of the liner
 

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Master Coalroller
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I can’t remember where you’re at, are you sending the block in for decking, rebate cutting in and liners replaced?
 
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