[dat_610]

Im re-posting this as my previous thread was deleted

I am rebuilding my front hubs and im nearly done but I cant seem to get the drive clutch to sit in far enough so that i can get the snap ring on the axel shaft, anyone got any ideas? one side is almost in enough probably out by 1-2mm but the other side is closer to 5mm. Need to get the Patrol running asap! Any help would be appreciated

Thanks!

 

[GQ TANK]

Have you manual or auto hubs.

ALso how late is your MK, as mine seems to be differant (re lock washer setup) then other units.

I recently replaced wheel & king bearings (death wobbles) and had no issues putting back together.

 

[OutbackMK]

I posted a long reply but it’s gone, now a abbreviated one:
The clips are available from Nissan (I ordered some two weeks ago) they are available in different thicknesses.
Make sure all the excess grease is off the clutch.
Push the gear in while holding the stub axle out with a pair of long nosed pliers.
The groove is about 2.5 mm wide to allow for adjustment.
Place the back edge of your circlip in the groove (don't try and put it over the shaft at this stage)
If it won't fit you inner bearing is probably not seated or the clip is a wider than standard. If bearing and all are snug you will need a narrower clip.
Mine has a 1.3mm on one side and 1mm on the other and I can just get a 0.005" feeler gauge between the clip and the back of the groove on both.
You will find the part numbers thru the WiKI link.
Std Flange Snap Ring 1mm is 39253C6000

 

[DiscoMuzz]

Im re-posting this as my previous thread was deleted

I am rebuilding my front hubs and im nearly done but I cant seem to get the drive clutch to sit in far enough so that i can get the snap ring on the axel shaft, anyone got any ideas? one side is almost in enough probably out by 1-2mm but the other side is closer to 5mm. Need to get the Patrol running asap! Any help would be appreciated

Thanks!

Have you got the clutch-wheel bearing spacer in the correct way?

It goes in like an upside down jar lid!

Very easy to get the wrong way and it makes a whole lot of difference.

 

[dat_610]

Ok i managed to get it all back together with everyones help CHEERS Heaps!!!!!
I didnt realise that the stub axel was pushed back in, :headwall: all I had to do was pull it out an there was enough room for the clip. I pulled it appart about 3 times before this hahaha silly me lol :idiot:

So now its all back together and seems to be going good, havent taken it for a very long drive yet prob 10km has been the longest stint. They seem to be getting a bit warm but im guessing thats just bedding in.

Im guessing ill have to re-check the wheel bearings in about 100ish kms?? I saw a thread the other day about people using GQ? GU? (not sure which ones) locking rings, they seem to look alot better than the mk ones, does anyone have part numbers for all the stuff I need cos i think ill change to them when i check the bearings.

arty:Thanks again for all the help everyone I really appreciate it!!!!!!:bananaro:

I sure missed driving the old Patrol around, I have been riding my dirt bike everywhere for over a month now and as much as I like riding the moto the partol is alot easier at times like doing shopping and when its raining, also cant go wheeling on my moto.... well sorta can but its not the same lol

 

[DiscoMuzz]

Got the numbers here somewhere if you want them but;

They are GU product and any Nissan dealer will know what you are talking about.

Three parts: A bag of screws, 2 x pin ring and 2 x locking ring. $65.00 two weeks ago from our local Nissan place.

If you need the numbers let me know.

 

[dat_610]

Cool yeah I orderd them, just gotta wait for them to come in from interstate. I dont really like the original locking set up, this one looks alot better and safer

 

[dattopimp]

Got the numbers here somewhere if you want them but;

They are GU product and any Nissan dealer will know what you are talking about.

Three parts: A bag of screws, 2 x pin ring and 2 x locking ring. $65.00 two weeks ago from our local Nissan place.

If you need the numbers let me know.

Oh wow, and they'll fit the mk hey? Thats interesting...

 

[LordBug]

So the go is to get an MK bearing kit, and then get GU locking rings?

I've gotta do the bearings in my front left, and might as well as get the good stuff now.

Tips on best place to get the bearing kit from? eBay? The usual chain stores? Proper bearing places?

 

[DiscoMuzz]

We bought CBC bearing kits from a bearing joint here. NJ127 is the bearing number for 8/83-87 Disc Brake model. $75.00 each (from memory).

Then, as stated, the GU locking setup for $65.00/pr from the local Nissan dealer. Interestingly, they had to get them in from Perth.

 

[dat_610]

Picked up the Locking ring set today from Nissan :driving: so im guessing I put one of the original MK hub nuts on 1st to get the correct bearing tension then the GU locking ring nut then the locking ring and screws. How do I do the locking ring nut up as it has not nut type edges? also how tight does it need to be? and is there any mods needed or does it all go straight on?

As for the bearings, I have seen just wheel bearing kits on ebay for around 100bucks off the top of my head, I got the full rebuild kit for about 200bucks i think or 170 cant remember, fair pain in the ass job to do the full rebuild

 

[DiscoMuzz]

... so im guessing I put one of the original MK hub nuts on 1st to get the correct bearing tension then the GU locking ring nut then the locking ring and screws. ...

Nup! Chuck the MK stuff to buggery.

The ring is a pin type. You will need to buy or make a spanner to tighten correctly, although the mechanic at the local dealer reckons he just uses the old screw-driver-in-the-hole-and-whack-it' method to get 'tension' (by the way, the correct torque is 120ft/lbs or TWICE the torque of your standard wheel nut - have fun) which is what I did.

So, it's ring, lock and then screw it together.

 

[DiscoMuzz]

Oh wow, and they'll fit the mk hey? Thats interesting...

Not only do they fit, they are supposed to solve the wheel bearing problem that seems to dog the old girls.

 

[dat_610]

Nup! Chuck the MK stuff to buggery.

The ring is a pin type. You will need to buy or make a spanner to tighten correctly, although the mechanic at the local dealer reckons he just uses the old screw-driver-in-the-hole-and-whack-it' method to get 'tension' (by the way, the correct torque is 120ft/lbs or TWICE the torque of your standard wheel nut - have fun) which is what I did.

So, it's ring, lock and then screw it together.

So I dont even put one of the Mk nuts on for wheelbearing tension? then use the GU stuff to hold it all in place? If this is the case then why do it up so hard arent the wheel bearing tensions suppose to be only hand tight? Not sure if i missunderstood you.

 

[DiscoMuzz]

So I dont even put one of the Mk nuts on for wheelbearing tension? then use the GU stuff to hold it all in place? If this is the case then why do it up so hard arent the wheel bearing tensions suppose to be only hand tight? Not sure if i missunderstood you.

Yeah, had this discussion on the LR forum. The idea with the 120ft/lbs is to seat the new bearing centre's on the axle 'properly'.

A bit of overkill. You should however squish the buggers up until they stop rotating and then back them off a little (same as usual).

So, if you have the correct tool for the MK nut, can't see any probs. using it to get max. torque and then replace the ENTIRE MK locking assy. with the GU and adjust as you suggested - finger tight and then lock it.

 

[DiscoMuzz]

... and is there any mods needed or does it all go straight on...

I have noticed with Matt's car the RHS axle housing has a locating groove on only one side of the thread. Suspect it's MQ because it was recently replaced.

The LHS is original MK with locating grooves on both sides of the thread.

The GU locking ring comes with two locating tabs. If you use it on a MQ you may need to file one of the tabs off.

 

[dat_610]

I put the gu locking stuff in tonight as suggested, I just did em up as tight as possible then backed them off, then I put the wheel on and did them up till i felt no play. hopefully it works out ok im getting sick of pulling the hubs appart lol. With the 2 screws on both sides I just used some locktight (light duty) on them, has anyone had any issues with the screws coming loose? cos its pretty hard to put much torque on them.

BTW Discomuzz mine had 2x groves on both stub axels not sure what the mq`s had???

Thanks again for the help!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[dat_610]

I think im having some brake dragging issues now grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
any idea what a new or recon master cyl is worth?

 

[neRok]

upgrade to the bigger GQ one, brand new costs less than $100 from memory.

 

[OutbackMK]

I think im having some brake dragging issues now grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
any idea what a new or recon master cyl is worth?

JB1777 is the master cylinder I got one from SCA for $92
Make sure you have the later style vacuum booster (MK) on the car it may not work with MQ.

Dragging may be from front discs being warped or needing a few minutes on a brake lathe.
If you have a dial gauge and mag base set it and check out discs for run-out.
If that's OK check that the pistons or the pads are not binding in the calipers.
Stuffed master cylinders usually bleed down when you hold steady pressure on the brake. (after you have checked that all wheel cylinders are OK and system bled properly. (high point is front/rear compensator located high up on drivers side chassis rail)