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2003 ZD30 Patrol
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gday all, I want to move the maf sensor housing further down the line towards the turbo. I have searched for answers on this but only found a thread on moving it after the turbo.
A few years ago I modified the air box lid with a 90 degree stormwater bend which had a rise in maf voltage and air flow with a k&n filter. I now want to put a 2 1/2 inch inlet on the turbo and maybe a silicon joiner from that to the maf housing over the alternator and then 90mm pipe to the air box. Has anyone done this before and will it make any difference having the maf housing closer to the turbo?
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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You can move it closer, just don't change any dimensions of the housing otherwise voltage will change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You can move it closer, just don't change any dimensions of the housing otherwise voltage will change.
I plan on still using the original housing but just closer to the turbo. Just wasn’t sure if this would have any negative effects or not.
Do you think it would also be beneficial (if there’s room) to use 2x45 degree joiners over the alternator instead of a sharp 90 degree bend for better air flow?
 

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2007 Nissan Patrol Y61 Wagon AT 2009 ZD30CRD Engine
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Hey Adam!

Good thing you bought a Sensor Voltage Modifier.

You can change anything you want and dial the MAF back to factory voltages, and dial out any problem areas for changes that are performed.

Hypothetically, if you wanted to go larger with the MAF sensor section, before doing modifications, you'd have to record voltages in different parts of the rev range to be able to return the voltages back to stock values.

By going bigger intake in the MAF sensor section, the MAF will see less air flow past it and think there's less air and put in less fuel. This will run the engine too lean and it'll overheat. As well as this, it will most likely go into limp mode.

Let us know what you come up with, and post up some pics!

Lionel
 
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By going bigger intake in the MAF sensor section, the MAF will see less air flow past it and think there's less air and put in less fuel. This will run the engine too lean and it'll overheat. As well as this, it will most likely go into limp mode.
I dont think a lean diesel engine will overheat. It should just lose power.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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I dont think a lean diesel engine will overheat. It should just lose power.
Absobloodylutely, opposite to petrol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey Adam!

Good thing you bought a Sensor Voltage Modifier.

You can change anything you want and dial the MAF back to factory voltages, and dial out any problem areas for changes that are performed.

Hypothetically, if you wanted to go larger with the MAF sensor section, before doing modifications, you'd have to record voltages in different parts of the rev range to be able to return the voltages back to stock values.

By going bigger intake in the MAF sensor section, the MAF will see less air flow past it and think there's less air and put in less fuel. This will run the engine too lean and it'll overheat. As well as this, it will most likely go into limp mode.

Let us know what you come up with, and post up some pics!

Lionel
I still plan on keeping the original maf housing, the main aim of this project is to install a larger turbo inlet with larger pipe work out of the air box to suit the higher flow turbo installed. I don’t have to worry about limp because of the remap so I’m hoping the voltage modifier will add fuel where I need it and lower it a bit at idle. I’m hoping for a bit more low end torque as I tow my 2 1/2 ton van quite a bit more nowadays.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
maybe you should look at the branch pipe with the maf from patrol 62, there is probably a larger pipe, and the maf is the same
I would never have thought of that. I’ll look into that.
The actual maf would have to be different wouldn’t it? I have an 03 early model with a 4 wire setup.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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I would never have thought of that. I’ll look into that.
The actual maf would have to be different wouldn’t it? I have an 03 early model with a 4 wire setup.
The maf must be different unless you can adjust the voltsge with an external unit, something we did years ago. For me I would try the simple way first.
 

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Gday all, I want to move the maf sensor housing further down the line towards the turbo. I have searched for answers on this but only found a thread on moving it after the turbo.
A few years ago I modified the air box lid with a 90 degree stormwater bend which had a rise in maf voltage and air flow with a k&n filter. I now want to put a 2 1/2 inch inlet on the turbo and maybe a silicon joiner from that to the maf housing over the alternator and then 90mm pipe to the air box. Has anyone done this before and will it make any difference having the maf housing closer to the turbo?
Hi,
can I offer my thought's.
I'd go with heater flue pipe, its galvanised and comes in the same sizes as stormwater pipe, and it won't rust out. ( wrapped with aluminium tape to reflect the engine bay heat out. It won't deform like storm water pipe will when it gets hot, causing air vortexes).
Leave the maf sensor where it is, cut the pipe 2" up the line towards the turbo. Use silicone couplers to connect.
If you find you get limp mode, install a voltage modifier and tweak.

Just double check that you can purchase afore mentioned items prior to starting the job.
 

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Oh, I should add.
I would be inclined to go with the manufacturers paper filter as the system is not pressurised. So air flow volume is dictated by surface area. ( thats my understanding. ) plus you won't have filter oil working its way into the intercooler, compromising its ability to transfer cool air into the motor.
I may be wrong, but if I was going to do this modification.
This is what I would do.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Oh, I should add.
I would be inclined to go with the manufacturers paper filter as the system is not pressurised. So air flow volume is dictated by surface area. ( thats my understanding. ) plus you won't have filter oil working its way into the intercooler, compromising its ability to transfer cool air into the motor.
I may be wrong, but if I was going to do this modification.
This is what I would do.
Sorry but yes you are wrong, it is proven beyond doubt that a K&N or a BMC re usable filter is superior to the std filter, I did a lot of testing, the BMC actually gives you extra space around the filter so the airflow is improved, surface area can be visually deceptive. As for oil, if the instructions are followed there is no problem with oil fouling anything, once in all the years I've been using them have I contaminated the MAF with over oiling, lesson learned early.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi,
can I offer my thought's.
I'd go with heater flue pipe, its galvanised and comes in the same sizes as stormwater pipe, and it won't rust out. ( wrapped with aluminium tape to reflect the engine bay heat out. It won't deform like storm water pipe will when it gets hot, causing air vortexes).
Leave the maf sensor where it is, cut the pipe 2" up the line towards the turbo. Use silicone couplers to connect.
If you find you get limp mode, install a voltage modifier and tweak.

Just double check that you can purchase afore mentioned items prior to starting the job.
Thanks for the tip. Another option I can try. I have a heap of pipe and silicone joiners in the shed so I’ll give it a go and try a few configurations. I have a length of 90mm black plastic pipe that came with a snorkel from years ago which fits nicely into the 90 degree stormwater bend. Never had any problem with the stormwater bend deforming (yet) it’s been under the bonnet glued to the air box for the last 6 years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Oh, I should add.
I would be inclined to go with the manufacturers paper filter as the system is not pressurised. So air flow volume is dictated by surface area. ( thats my understanding. ) plus you won't have filter oil working its way into the intercooler, compromising its ability to transfer cool air into the motor.
I may be wrong, but if I was going to do this modification.
This is what I would do.
I’ve never had any problems with the k&n air filter.
If anything it improved air flow and maf voltage.
Before the remap I had to play with the needle valve to stop any limp happening. I’m very methodical with cleaning and oiling it. In all the years it’s been there I’ve never had any problems with it contaminating the maf or intercooler.
 

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Sorry but yes you are wrong, it is proven beyond doubt that a K&N or a BMC re usable filter is superior to the std filter, I did a lot of testing, the BMC actually gives you extra space around the filter so the airflow is improved, surface area can be visually deceptive. As for oil, if the instructions are followed there is no problem with oil fouling anything, once in all the years I've been using them have I contaminated the MAF with over oiling, lesson learned early.
I’ve never had any problems with the k&n air filter.
If anything it improved air flow and maf voltage.
Before the remap I had to play with the needle valve to stop any limp happening. I’m very methodical with cleaning and oiling it. In all the years it’s been there I’ve never had any problems with it contaminating the maf or intercooler.
Hi lads,
After reading your replies, I installed a k&n filter today. It works great and pushed limp mode back by 300 rpm's.
Thanks for the tip.
Nathan
 
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