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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, iv been grazing about for a few years and after modifying a few vehicles, i figured i would do a build thread of my mq patrol and its progress.

Its my second MQ my last was a swb that i never truly completed, so after 6 years i started keeping my eye out and picked this one up.

Mq wagon cut down to single cab plus a couple of extra inches, converted to SD33t and 5 spd out of a mk. On 31s.

First thing i did was to remove the massive rear head board that towered over the cab.

I then made my own front extended shackles as the standard length ones fitted caused the militery wrapped leaf springs to contact the front spring hanger.

Then i removed the 31s and found the set of 33s with rims on gumtree that clean up the look of the ute from a farm hack to somthing slightly better.
 

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LED ZEPPELIN
1995 GQ TD42 NA
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Good stuff! Looking forward to updates and a few pics.
 

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
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Nice work.
What's next on the to do list?
 

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nissan
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Discussion Starter #7
Next to do is wrap up the turbo install, coolant lines, finish dump pipe and exhaust to atleast behind the cab for now.
After these and i get my car trailer back, ill be towing it down to my local 4wd park to set the fueling.
Hear is some intercooler pics, im no boilermaker so im still learning the art of tig welding.
Pipes are 2.25"
Xr6 intercooler.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The overall plan is to clean the ute up, register it. Try to double the factory out put or atleast make between 450-500nm, on anther post iv seen them make 55kw at the wheels relatively stock so as long as the pump can supply the fuel plus a little wmi in it im hopefull.
Then turn my attention to suspension.
 

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If it is an original MQ ute, one of the best mods I saw done to one of these was to unpick the spotwelds on the ute cab back panel, and fit the same panel out of an MK or GQ that has been written off (water damaged ones are good!), these have the window moved backwards by about 3" so allows you to move the seats back a bit more for more legroom.
I had one near the same as yours but a P40 4.0L engine and 4spd manual, was a very easy conversion to a SBC and TH400. Only things I had to make up were:

Bracket to fit the Nissan alternator (in stock 1969 onwards SBC position).
Engine mounts (just used 6mm plate bolted to the chassis with square posts to suit Holden mounts).
Pivot off the side of the TH400 for the transfer case lever.
Bracket to fit the Sanden compressor.
Brackets for a B&M transmission cooler and some plastic coated LPG line for the coolant lines.

Rest was all off the shelf bits. Used factory Nissan radiator and shroud, and from memory a top flexi radiator hose and a 6cyl Falcon bottom hose. Original throttle cable operated the Quadrajet easily. VB-VL Trimatic T-bar fitted straight in the hole where the manual stick came out, just had to wire in the reverse switch and detent, plus graft the shift indicator bit off the Commodore console onto the shifter. Just had to fit adapters to run the Nissan oil and engine temp senders onto the SBC imperial threads. Adapter kit was straight Marks 4x4, had to change the shaft in the TH400 though. Had heaps of grunt, and it ran on LPG as the old P40 did too.

Was a very simple conversion, probably would be just as easy using a 6.5L Chev diesel if you wanted to.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi neRok its definitely a wagon cut down to a ute it was originally a 5 seater, it been mod plated for 2 seater, engine, gearbox and gmv.
Yes my 4yo daughter gets cranky when we're out of fruit toast.

The cab is 2~inches longer than a standard cab, i would actually like to figure out the original trim level from factory.

HK1837 that sounds like a mint truck you had and there is a swb one up for sale atm with a new 350 chev on 35s.
Unfortunately im not planning any engine conversions at this point.
I have another project i am in the middle of atm and my wifes lj torana i need to start.
If i was to go the petrol rought, id put a torque monster rb30 together.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
2 steps forward 1 back.
Finished off the turbo upgrade, pipes ect and thort I'd take it for a little test and to set the boost.
Fully loaded 1st gear high, clutch out then start loading it up, it come up on boost and bang, back diff let go.
I'm thinking it busted the crown wheel but will know for sure when I pull it.
 

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I would have thought, the crown wheel would not have been the first to go in this scenario - it'll be interesting to see what you find when you pull the diff apart!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have replaced the diff and it sounds like bolts in a milo tin. Seehuusen I think you are correct it seems the spider gears let go.
I finished my exhaust system last week and fitted a basic egt gauge just to get the truck together for diesel assult night.
Also knocked up some battery brackets, bleed the brakes and fix up some wiring.
It managed to do 20.6sec it broke lose in first hit the gov in 3rd and I crossed the line in 4th on the govener at 110kmh.
I'll be swapping the 4.6 gears back to 4.3 to bring the gearing back to suit.
So some improvement to be had.
I'll be winding a lot more fuel in as well as it bairly made 500deg across the line.
I think the turbo was making 10-12 psi but my gauge light broke so hard to tell, my aim is 15psi, I'll be taking it to my local 4wd park for some testing tue or wed.
I can see my self maxing the fuel pump out very quickly.
510719
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Little update.
Iv had the patrol registered, I still need to go through a few things though.
Lately it will pop a fuse randomly and kill the engine and indicators, I can restart the engine but it will shut it self down immediatly. if replace the fuse and restarted the ute to drive away and its repeated the issue 50% of the time.

Since I took it down Willowbank it was only running 8psi of boost which with that aculator at that preset tension from previous experience should have been 12psi.
I adjusted it with 1/2" preload and it made 12-13 psi. (A leak some where obviously)
After some head scratching I made up a leak down tester and to my shock when the compressor couldn't even make a few psi, a couple of twist on the hose clamps and presto.
Holding pressure.
With the max travel mod and 4 full turns on the rack limiting screw on the side of the pump I'm hoping to hold an easy 500deg egt post turbo.
I'll be taking next week across canungra to nerang to run a final set up.
 

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
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Those fueling adjustments should easily see in excess of 500 post turbo.
You will quickly find the limitations of the stock intake and turbo too lol.

Electrical issue sounds like something shorting out. From memory the indicators and edic motor are on the same circuit.... for whatever reason... so the issue will likely be contained to that one circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update
I'm running 19psi boost and the fuel pump is maxed out the rack limiting screw is 6.5 turns out, flush with its holder.
Iv installed my wmi injection system with a 650cc nossel. With 50/50 wm It has made a nice difference.
Every day I drive it, it seems to be improving, I believe its because its cleaning the years of carbon build up out.
James008
Thanks for the info I'll look in to the circuit.
I'm running a 42mm Hitachi turbo. It will make 21psi if I want it but the back pressure is sure to climb to undesirable levels. Plenty of flow for this pump.

I'll post a video soon
 
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