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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently took my GU for a test drive around the block after fitting a new alternator.
The vehicle was parked up for around 3 weeks. (long story)
So no boost at all.
Checked vacc lines and tested 28Hg at the actuator.
Took the front off the turbo to check the vanes and they fail to free spin ...at all...
Started the GU and took revs up to 3-3.5k.
Vanes began the slightest slow spin then nope.

So i believe my turbo has packed it in.

A replacement eclipse model is 2.3k which for me is a sizable bite.
I want to avoid putting a yum-cha unit in so i'm looking at perhaps a 2nd hand unit.

Can anyone recommend any other options that may be a bit lighter on my hip pocket?
Perhaps even a couple of pointers for online 2nd hand retailers that people may have had good experiences with would help.

I'm really not in great state of mind at the moment, any help would be great.
 

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Go second hand I reckon, if you need one now and can't afford a new/upgraded unit. Shouldn't be too hard to find one, there are tons of ZD's out there... You can always upgrade it later.
 

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A replacement eclipse model is 2.3k which for me is a sizable bite.
I want to avoid putting a yum-cha unit in so i'm looking at perhaps a 2nd hand unit.

Can anyone recommend any other options that may be a bit lighter on my hip pocket?
These guys will take your old turbo and send you a reconditioned 1 of theirs. Read up on the process, you can send them your old turbo and after they get it thsy will send you some dollar back, ultimately - it is what you're after right
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
These guys will take your old turbo and send you a reconditioned 1 of theirs. Read up on the process, you can send them your old turbo and after they get it thsy will send you some dollar back, ultimately - it is what you're after right
are these the same guys that do the cheaper turbos for around $600 or so?
ebay

Just wondering is all.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Recently took my GU for a test drive around the block after fitting a new alternator.
The vehicle was parked up for around 3 weeks. (long story)
So no boost at all.
Checked vacc lines and tested 28Hg at the actuator.
Took the front off the turbo to check the vanes and they fail to free spin ...at all...
Started the GU and took revs up to 3-3.5k.
Vanes began the slightest slow spin then nope.

So i believe my turbo has packed it in.

A replacement eclipse model is 2.3k which for me is a sizable bite.
I want to avoid putting a yum-cha unit in so i'm looking at perhaps a 2nd hand unit.

Can anyone recommend any other options that may be a bit lighter on my hip pocket?
Perhaps even a couple of pointers for online 2nd hand retailers that people may have had good experiences with would help.

I'm really not in great state of mind at the moment, any help would be great.
Re second hand, you could chat to PatrolApart and discuss what they can offer, they are a pretty good bunch, I've bought a few second hand bits from them over the years. Worth a try anyway, an inquiry costs you nothing [email protected] the guy I have always spoken to is 'Shorty' maybe mention Patrol4x4. Are you fitting it yourself? Not that hard seeing as yours is aircooled. BTW, where did the 2.3k number come from for the Eclipse?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re second hand, you could chat to PatrolApart and discuss what they can offer, they are a pretty good bunch, I've bought a few second hand bits from them over the years. Worth a try anyway, an inquiry costs you nothing [email protected] the guy I have always spoken to is 'Shorty' maybe mention Patrol4x4. Are you fitting it yourself? Not that hard seeing as yours is aircooled. BTW, where did the 2.3k number come from for the Eclipse?
I asked a direct question via their facebook page. They were pretty quick in getting back to me.

I'm in the process of removing the turbo now.
The last dump pipe nut is nigh impossible to budge given the tight space and i need that out to remove the dump and get good access and leverage on the last manifold nut closet to the firewall.
Can the turbo be removed with the dump pipe attached?
Lastly i can see a line on the bottom of the turbo attached low on the block via what appears to be a banjo bolt so i'm thinking its oil cooled?
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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I asked a direct question via their facebook page. They were pretty quick in getting back to me.

I'm in the process of removing the turbo now.
The last dump pipe nut is nigh impossible to budge given the tight space and i need that out to remove the dump and get good access and leverage on the last manifold nut closet to the firewall.
Can the turbo be removed with the dump pipe attached?
Lastly i can see a line on the bottom of the turbo attached low on the block via what appears to be a banjo bolt so i'm thinking its oil cooled?
Get a spray product called Reducteur H72, this helps greatly with rusted bolts, spray it on and leave it for an hour or so to penetrate. No you cannot remove the turbo with the dump on, just not enough room, even if you break the stud you need to get it off, you may need to buy a better spanner to do the job. All ZD30 turbos (CRD and DI) have oil lines that connect via a small banjo (supply line) and flange to the block (return line) only early DI's had the extra water cooling (that is a real pain in the arse, I have one).

You can remove the oil lines before removing turbo, not easy but doable and it makes getting the turbo past all the other engine crap much easier (Note the oil line flange that bolts to the turbo may warp slightly, check it with a straight edge before refitting, I lightly filed mine to level it up) , but you must get that dump pipe off, it is quite common for this to happen where studs/nuts are heavily rusted and heat affected, whatever you do make sure the spanner fits correctly (tightly) round the nut off and the problem goes from bad to worse. It pays to fit new studs and nuts when refitting the turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Get a spray product called Reducteur H72, this helps greatly with rusted bolts, spray it on and leave it for an hour or so to penetrate. No you cannot remove the turbo with the dump on, just not enough room, even if you break the stud you need to get it off, you may need to buy a better spanner to do the job. All ZD30 turbos (CRD and DI) have oil lines that connect via a small banjo (supply line) and flange to the block (return line) only early DI's had the extra water cooling. You can remove the oil lines before removing turbo, not easy but doable and it makes getting the turbo past all the other engine crap much easier, but you must get that dump pipe off, it is quite common for this to happen where studs/nuts are heavily rusted and heat effected, whatever you do make sure the spanner fits correctly (tightly) round the nut off and the problem goes from bad to worse. It pays to fit new studs and nuts when refitting the turbo.
Wise advice..cheers mate.
I'll walk away from it for a bit. :)
I've given it a good spray of 50/50 mix of atf fluid and acetone mix to sub in for a good penetrate spray in the short term.
I'll leave it for a bit and have another crack at it later!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I've applied the H72 spray and will leave it overnight.
The nut on the dump closest to the block is rounded off..just great.
I have a socket to remove this kind of thing but its in such position that a normal socket driver wont fit within the radius of the dump correctly.
Lost out to the diminishing light...and the job to cook for the family.

I swear this stuff is just never simple.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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I've applied the H72 spray and will leave it overnight.
The nut on the dump closest to the block is rounded off..just great.
I have a socket to remove this kind of thing but its in such position that a normal socket driver wont fit within the radius of the dump correctly.
Lost out to the diminishing light...and the job to cook for the family.

I swear this stuff is just never simple.
Know your pain. Using a 6 sided 3/8 drive socket is handy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi, just an update enquiry..hunting around for a suitable replacement
Would a turbo from the 2005 Navara D22 zd30 fit the Crd Patrol?
Pics indicate a wastegate rather than a VNT actuator?
Would this work with some plumbing changes?
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Hi, just an update enquiry..hunting around for a suitable replacement
Would a turbo from the 2005 Navara D22 zd30 fit the Crd Patrol?
Pics indicate a wastegate rather than a VNT actuator?
Would this work with some plumbing changes?
ECU won't like it. Wouldn't do it, they are different for a reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks Gee, always prompt with your replies.
Much appreciated.
I've been on the scrounge for some extra change and I'm thinking of going ahead and ordering a unit from Eclipse as their quoted price seems a bit on par than a than a new OEM Garrett unit.
Not looking for an endorsement at all, but I have heard good things about them.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Thanks Gee, always prompt with your replies.
Much appreciated.
I've been on the scrounge for some extra change and I'm thinking of going ahead and ordering a unit from Eclipse as their quoted price seems a bit on par than a than a new OEM Garrett unit.
Not looking for an endorsement at all, but I have heard good things about them.
I have one and it is still going strong, the later models have an improved compwheel as I understand it, I can make an enquiry for you if you like, I'm not making a recommendation either way just giving my feedback from personal experience. Of course there will always be negative views, I actually had this conversation with someone the other day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks again, I've contacted them via Facebook again and let them know that I'm interested. They've asked for my mobile number, so I'm waiting for a call to have a discussion.
I'm not looking for huge gains in power and torque etc etc..i'm just after something reliable and at a good price.
The other option I'm looking at is a OEM reconditioned unit, although I think the eclipse will be worth the budget stretch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
I've ordered the Eclipse unit this morning.
Budget stretch yes, but a brand new unit from a local Garrett distributor was around $2K.
Oem original from the Nissan dealer was $340
 
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