[Hewylewy]

New member will be looking for plenty of help have been downloading from the Technical Section.
I have always heard the ZD 30 was a grenade but now know the real story.
Initially the plan was for a 4JJ1 swap but have decided to give the ZD30 DI a chance.

 

[Hewylewy]

327000Klms It has no NADS or Tillex style Boost control. Hopefully the later ECU fixed the over boosting issue. Is it still worth fitting a manual boost control valve ?
The engine looks quite clean oil is black. Hopefully it arrives in Tamworth tomorrow on car carrier.
Plan is to remove bubbled dash and recover. Then next job is install JRP 14in1 multigauge to check the boost. Inspect for EGR block off plate and check if intercooler & inlet manifold are full of sludge. Will have to wait till new PPD SS exhaust arrives before installing EGT probe.
Still doing plenty of reading. I also wonder if the later ECU treated the glow plugs better ?

 

[Dazz09]

Welcome.

Nice, it looks like its been cared for. With the dash, its often more cost effective (and looks better) to just get a new dash pad.

 

[Phdv61]

you should clean your second battery connections, and add a "red" plastic cover on the positive of your main battery. Otherwise, when checking the oil level, you will easily create a short-circuit...

Clean outside (motor) does not mean "clean" inside. And my comment above leads me to believe you should do further checks...

 

[nipagu72]

you say the car has a later ecu . but i think by the looks of it , the engine has been changed to a later model CRD ( maybe the DI motor grenaded ) motor which would require the CRD ECU and loom . the later CRD ECU will not nun the DI motor . it obviously has an aftermarket radiator as well .

 

[2002gu3]

The engine cover and the intercooler on a CRD are totally different, I think it's the DI engine, I can't see how the DI cover/intercooler (as pctured) would fit on the engine if it was a CRD, as they mount totally different......the later ECU, could be a 2006 model. (I have absolutely no idea whether or not you can remap/program a CRD ECU to make it suit a DI).

 

[Hewylewy]

you say the car has a later ecu . but i think by the looks of it , the engine has been changed to a later model CRD ( maybe the DI motor grenaded ) motor which would require the CRD ECU and loom . the later CRD ECU will not nun the DI motor . it obviously has an aftermarket radiator as well .

It is a DI engine and ECU manufactured 11/2004 MY05 GU IV. From my readings unless I am confusing myself, one of the things Nissan did to help stop engines failing was to update ECU's for better boost control.

 

[Hewylewy]

you should clean your second battery connections, and add a "red" plastic cover on the positive of your main battery. Otherwise, when checking the oil level, you will easily create a short-circuit...

Clean outside (motor) does not mean "clean" inside. And my comment above leads me to believe you should do further checks...

Plan to replace battery terminals and tidy up all the accessory wiring.

 

[Phdv61]

It is a DI engine and ECU manufactured 11/2004 MY05 GU IV. From my readings unless I am confusing myself, one of the things Nissan did to help stop engines failing was to update ECU's for better boost control.

Well, to my knowledge the boost sensor is not used by the Di.
In France, the Di continued for a couple of years until 2006. In 2003 from the top of my head, the ECU was "updated", and the boost sensor data became available on the Consult - non truely OBD2 - port. Also, the power was increased from 158HP to 160HP . Not a big deal...

 

[Hewylewy]

Dashboard removed and cleaned up the gooey mess. In some parts you could peel a 5cm square off the dash (almost satisfying 🙂) but mostly it was like scrapping off chewing gum that had been left in the sun. The foam underneath is in reasonable condition. It must have been a chemical reaction between the glue and the vinyl covering.

 

[Hewylewy]

Dash recovered with 4 way stretch carpet and high temp glue from Car Builders. Do not want to have do this job again. Fitted the Polaris Maxx while I had the dash apart.

 

[rgren2]

Dash looks great, want to do mine? 😉

 

[Hewylewy]

Put the batteries back in this afternoon after some tidying up of wiring to accessories. The engine cranks but wont start and with the ignition on not trying to crank I have a buzzing noise coming from passenger side low down on the engine. (Thinking it maybe a EGR valve ? ) Also the tacho flickers from 1-2k rpm at the same time. Weird maybe I missed a connector or disturbed something behind the dash.
I had a ECU talk cable on order anyway, hopefully it arrives tomorrow.

 

[Hewylewy]

Found the problem the dual battery isolation solenoid was the buzzing noise. Must have been creating noise on the 12V supply that the ECM did not like. Cleaned all the connections but still same fault it just decided to fail coincidently.
My ECU Talk cable arrived got the program working. It did have a crank sensor error logged I was able to clear that. The boost looks high at idle. Just free reving the engine I could see over 20lbs of boost.
Are these boost readings in the ballpark ??

 

[nipagu72]

boost might be set to absolute pressure instead of relative pressure . atmospheric pressure at sea level is about 14.6 psi. there is normally a setting to change it to relative pressure

 

[Phdv61]

what surprises me in your display is the VNT turbo SV1 value, which is the pwm signal sent by the ECU to the turbo solenoid. it shows 41,8% whilst idling (750 RPM), instead of the well known 55,9% (=vanes fully closed).

 

[2002gu3]

Plan to replace battery terminals and tidy up all the accessory wiring.

When you replace the terminals, add an extra earth (read about it in search)

 

[jono6974]

Even the late DI's did not control boost properly. Mine is a late 05, and has just blown the motor. I had NADS on it, but it is a matter of time on these motors until all mods are done. The DI ECU can be remapped once the chips have been changed .(Definitely worth doing). Block your EGR to prevent the manifld gumming up.Plenty of other mods all listed in the archives. Nice car BTW , looks good

 

[Hewylewy]

Ok time to add senders for my JRP 14 in 1 gauge. Engine needed a oil & filter change anyway found the oil switch next to oil filter not that easy to get at. Need either a deep socket or cut down ring spanner. Can anyone confirm it is 26mm before I purchase one

 

[nipagu72]

i am not sure if your model has two oil pressure sensors but if it does , it is the one on the drivers side that you need to connect to to get the correct reading , a long while since i did this myself and cannot recall the exact reason at the moment.