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Discussion Starter #1
Here is the story of my 1990 GQ. Its a long story

Many many years ago first I had a 1990 Maverick SWB TD42 manual. Had a good time with it.
It had 33's, snorkel, long range tank, 2 inch lift


Soft landing at Stockton dunes



Wheelbarrow ridge







I remember buying it on a Tuesday and on the Saturday took it to the trails at Kenhurst (In Sydney) for its first 4wd trip. I sank it in the first boghole and then the clutch wouldn't hold higher than 3rd gear on the way home.


Once home I eventually worked out that the Nissan factory snorkel was not sealed properly and water had entered the outside ring of the air filter. Close call.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
After a few years I wanted a GQ Patrol LWB so I decided to buy a repairable wreck from the auctions. I bought this GQ 4.2 petrol automatic with only 91,000 kms for about $5500 delivered. The photos below are from the auction yard. The interior and mechanicals were in great condition and the damage was really just superficial. I sold the 4.2 petrol engine for $1900 to a local sawmill for their forklift...











It only needed a dent in the back corner fixed (I finally fixed that dent properly 13 years later), two new doors and one set of door hinges and a new front guard. Easy fixes.

I then pulled the auto gearbox out of the LWB and put the TD42 and manual gearbox from my SWB Maverick into it. Now the LWB was a nice touring machine.

The plan for the SWB Maverick was to make a weekend toy or comp rig out of it with a V8 petrol and automatic. That never eventuated.

So The GQ LWB has been with me for over a decade and for most of its life had the following;
2 inch lift
ARB bar and high mount winch
Long range main and sub tanks (220L total)
DTS turbo kit and 3 inch exhaust

Here it is making itself useful at the boat ramp. Note the mismatched front panel and badly repaired dent in the back corner. It stayed like this for over a decade because I had a work car and this Patrol was just for towing the boat and going camping.






Cape Melville




I have kept the GQ, despite its age, because it is comfortable for me to drive and it doesn't owe me anything.



In the last 3 years I have sorted out the lack of power and added;
W2A intercooler
The DTS mitubishi TD05 turbo was tinkered with by UFI to make it an 18g
UFI 12mm pump
HD clutch

I don't seem to have many good photos of it. Here it is being taken away by a tow truck when I picked up heaps of water and algae from a fuel station. Insurance paid for the newly built 12mm pump and injectors to be replaced. Thanks insurance


 

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LED ZEPPELIN
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Great story, needs more dragons.

Oh, you weren't finished? :)

Some serious kit on the LWB, you certainly sorted out the power issue. What happened to the shorty?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Great story, needs more dragons.

Oh, you weren't finished? :)

Some serious kit on the LWB, you certainly sorted out the power issue. What happened to the shorty?
No not finished yet. The computer crashed and I had the blue screen of death after my last post.:confused:

As I mentioned, the shorty was going to be a weekend toy but I moved interstate and I realised that it would cost a lot of money to get it going and I found other interests. So my mate was going to put a V8 into it and get it going and have fun with it, but that never seemed to happen either. So unfortunately I think it died a sad death and is probably at a metal recycling center by now. I'm not sure because i haven't been able to contact that guy for a few years. She was a good bus that shorty.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Due to an issue with my leg I have decided to make it an automatic again for ease of driving using a Nissan Patrol Box, The RE4R03A


So this GQ has gone through a few transformations;
TB42 auto as it was from the factory
TD42 manual as it has been for the last ~15 years
TD42 automatic is the most recent guise completed late last year. This auto re-conversion is what I will show in the next few posts as I think it is the most interesting and might help a few people.

I didn't have any of the old bits from the original auto from when I did the auto to manual conversion years ago. So I needed to buy everything required for the auto.

The RE4R03A was by far the easiest, cheapest most reliable and easily researched option for an auto option to go into the Patrol. I'm no mechanic but I can turn a spanner in the right direction sometimes, so I tend to research the hell out of things so I have a good idea of what will be needed before I start.


Other potential auto options were;
- RE5R05A from the 4.8 GU patrol, D40 navara & Pathfinder, but it is not widely done and I had no interest in being a test pilot for anything. Wholesale Autos do this as a full kit at significant cost. Kewish do it too apparently
- Poindexter on this forum is putting in a 6L90e behind a ZD30. It will likely require mods to the cross member, tail shafts etc. He hasn't finished it yet, and again I wasn't interested in trialing a conversion. I wanted a known good option

So the chosen RE4R03A bolts into the same place the manual box sits, and in my case using the same cross member, mounts etc. In hindsight (the conversion has been finished and driven for a few months now) I don't think that making it an auto was technically difficult and is achievable by most handy people if you buy the right bits and source the right info.


I chose Paul from KEAS in Perth to supply all the main components since he knows the RE4R03A well and has very good prices. I spoke to KEAS after reading Reece's thread (http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/members-rides-19/reeces-td42t-gu5-auto-271498/)
Paul sent me;
- 2005 GU ZD30 auto transmission with lows kms
- Box was 2nd hand but pulled apart and checked over and some frictions replaced
- Bellhousing drilled for TD42 starter
- Stage 2 valve body (fitted)
- Heavy duty flex plate from magnum performance
- T4 Torque Converter from a ZD30, HD rebuilt and lowered stall
- Microsquirt TCU with harness and pre-programmed for RE4R03A and with shift points etc for a TD42.
All this was sent to me in North Queensland. Yes it is a long way for freight, but most stuff was going to have to come from Brisbane at the very least (1600kms) and more likely Melbourne, so for me it actually didn't make much difference in freight costs where it comes from within Australia.


Here is the stuff on a half size pallet.





Another option for sourcing a RE4R03A gearbox and associated parts was to buy a full conversion kit from Wholesale Automatics. This would have been way way too expensive and over capitalising my old GQ. I had already over capitalised the patrol enough (12mm pump and turbo etc) without spending the same amount of money on the auto kit as the whole vehicle was worth. Kewish and JD transmissions could have also supplied all the stuff but both tend to use a full manual valvebody for my power level. I wanted an auto where I can just put it in D and the missus can drive it.


The last option would have been to amass appropriate parts 2nd hand and via suppliers. This is what I was going to do to keep the coast as low as possible but KEAS could supply a 2nd hand gearbox in good condition, and he pulls it apart to check it out with 6 months warranty and drills for the Td42 starter.... all this cheaper than I could source a box of unknown condition without warrenty locally. It's a no brainer as to why I had KEAS supply the gearbox and then all the other main parts. If I didn't have a fair bit of power (~250hp) then I could get away with just 2nd hand parts and a much cheaper conversion overall.

To add to the main parts listed above I sourced all the rest of the required bits 2nd hand or new;
- Shifter and surround
- TPS on injector pump
- Transfer case shifter linkage pivot point and shift gate from an auto
- Auto brake pedal and cover for the hole through firewall where clutch cylinder was
- Trans oil cooler and hoses etc.
- Trans oil
- A few other minor bits
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I wanted to have as little downtime as possible doing the physical gearbox swap, so I did the following things first up while the vehicle was still a manual;

A Throttle position sensor (TPS) was fitted to the injector pump. I was lucky enough to have the pump being rebuilt at UFI after a fuel contamination issue and asked if they could fit a TPS for me. They gathered all the bits and the pump came back with a TPS. Couldn't have been easier.


A Transmission oil cooler and the cooler lines were fitted. Due to a lack of space behind the grill from the the intercooler radiator, I first bought a PWR 280 x 200 x 19mm cooler cheap 2nd hand ($30) to test how it was going to fit. It could just squeeze in. Then I thought I may as well buy the bigger size (280 x 255 x 19mm) and fit that since I had worked out there was enough room.





In hindsight after running the auto for a while over summer in Nth QLD, I have added the second cooler as well so that it stays cool under all conditions. The temperature creeps up when the lockup clutch doesn't have a chance to engage much.


So the final setup is both the 280 x 255 and the 280 x 200 coolers run in series. I notice that Wholesale Automatics conversion kit has two similar sized coolers supplied so I also ended up with a similar cooler setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I only mentioned it because it's the title of the thread :)
.. and I'm interested in TD42 autos in general..
I realised last night that where I stopped only had an auto to manual conversion mentioned but the title says the opposite.

I'm quite interested in the TD42 autos too. Turbo diesel auto is a great setup for easy driving. Just saw that UFI have asked for an expression of interest in TD42 to GM auto adaptors (4L80, 6L90e, T400, Powerglide etc.) which might give another series of options for those with plenty of power.
 

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Looks good. I also run 2 coolers in series and highest I get (beach run recently) is just over 90.
I considered adding a manually switched fan for my coolers but haven't really seen the need for it yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
As mentioned above somewhere, KEAS supplied me with an aftermarket TCU. It is a Microsquirt TCU and Jamie at Shiftkits Australia set it up for the Jatco RE4R03A and both of them have sorted it out to suit TD42's in Patrols. I believe they have also done it for other engines in Patrols too such as LS1. It doesn't matter what engine you have as the shift points etc can be changed to suit your setup or mood
Nissan / Jatco RE4 – 4 Speed Fully Programmable Transmission Controller – ShiftKits Australia


This is the TCU, wiring harness and connection cable. Also included but not shown was a CD with all the needed docs, and wiring notes for a Patrol.

I have been very happy with the controller and haven't had a drama except a few things I didn't understand correctly (how to connect TCU to my laptop) that Jamie sorted out for me. Also I was the first GQ and the Overdrive cancel switch needed attention to work as it is different to the GU. Great service and backup if needed.


I decided to fit the TCU in the glove box. The little plug hanging down is where you connect to your laptop

Yes it will be a pain to get the glovebox out if required, but I will deal with that problem when it comes up:rolleyes:

Before I swapped in the auto gearbox I wanted to have the TCU getting all the external signals (RPM, TPS, Speed) and appear to be working and correctly communicating with the gearbox such as selector position. So I bought a set of wiring plugs from someone wrecking a Patrol so that I could use the same plugs as the transmission.

I loaded up the Tunerstudio program to a laptop then made a new file etc and then you can connect to the TCU. All normal and easy to do.

I hung the transmission close to the patrol so the 2 wiring looms could be connected, as the TCU and its wiring harness are fitted to the Patrol now.



Fire up the engine and the program then shows you what it is getting from all the sensors. For me the RPM, TPS and everything else work. It also shows trans temperature (I changed one of those dials to temp later) as it gets temp from the valvebody. I think I had to swap 2 wires from the position selector, otherwise all was good. This is a screen shot of the tunerstudio dashboard with engine at idle - or 678 rpm to be precise


So with this TCU you can see a bit in the photo above with the menu options what you can mess with;
- change the shift points for each up or down gear shift based on speed and TPS position
- line pressure
- lockup clutch engagement and disengagement - what gears and in each what speed or rpm and throttle
- Lots of other stuff. See their website or read the manual or forum or ask Jamie at Shiftkits

Other stuff I think that you can do as options that will cost some more money if you could be bothered (I can't - it runs fine as is and it is so simple and quick to change parameters with the latop if you need to);
- manual mode with paddle or button shift
- gear position display
- bluetooth display to tablet to go on your dashboard of all the parameters like in the laptop shot above

One option I thought was interesting to change in the program is to turn on the drag mode. It will choose this when you operate the throttle at say 85% or higher. Then it will lockup the clutch in every gear you choose to transfer maximum power for a drag run or whatever you are doing at full throttle. Not something I need but it could be useful one day. I suppose you could get it to engage at say 50% so when towing it lockups often and prevents slip from the torque converter.

So at this point of the conversion I have a TCU working with all the correct inputs and I am confident I can now put the auto transmission behind the engine and it should work if the mechanicals are good. Next step is to get the engine crane and jacks out and move some metal.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Looks good. I also run 2 coolers in series and highest I get (beach run recently) is just over 90.
I considered adding a manually switched fan for my coolers but haven't really seen the need for it yet.
I remember looking in your thread and you had maybe a ZD30 cooler and another one? I though 1 large cooler would be enough but sitting at 80kph on undulating roads seems to heat it up a bit too much as the lockup clutch doesnt stay engaged often enough - though I have changed the lockup points since. I havent tested it on the beach yet. Is sand where you get the highest temps so far?

I agree about the fans - It will get done if needed but in a GQ with an intercooler there is little room behind the grille for a fan and in front of the grill will look a bit odd. GU seems to have more room
 

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I have the Davies Craig cooler in series with the TB45 cooler. The TB cooler is about half the size of a ZD cooler. I'm waiting to tow something heavy to see if anything needs changing.

I find I'm not using the TC lockup as much with this engine. The load it creates makes the EGTs rise much faster.

I know Scottmeister is also looking at an aftermarket TCU for his conversion but I find mine works well for how I drive it and at the power level that I currently have.

With a good valve body the changes are very quick if you keep your foot down. I wouldn't advise keeping the TC locked during changes with a high torque engine. I just can't see the clutch clamp force being sufficient.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I have the Davies Craig cooler in series with the TB45 cooler. The TB cooler is about half the size of a ZD cooler. I'm waiting to tow something heavy to see if anything needs changing.

I find I'm not using the TC lockup as much with this engine. The load it creates makes the EGTs rise much faster.

I know Scottmeister is also looking at an aftermarket TCU for his conversion but I find mine works well for how I drive it and at the power level that I currently have.

With a good valve body the changes are very quick if you keep your foot down. I wouldn't advise keeping the TC locked during changes with a high torque engine. I just can't see the clutch clamp force being sufficient.
Interesting that you use the lockup less. I suppose that letting the TC slip a bit more and therefore rpm rising for the same fueling and load will result in lower egt due to more air flowing through the engine.

I would be interested to see what TCU scottmiester uses. From what info I could find for a RE4 in a Patrol, there is Compushift, Microsquirt, PCM and Spitronics. All the auto shops I spoke to didn't recommend the factory TCU to control the trans. It seems they suggest that the factory TCU will let the clutches slip more than is desirable during a shift. Some of the shops didn't suggest using a TCU at all with 230hp and recommended full manual valve body so the trans will last. As with all things.... opinions vary and the use, longevity and expectations of the consumer vary wildy too.

I agree about shifting when unlocked. Some people have written in this forum that they shift when locked, but factory TCU's don't do this so there must be a reason with shock loads etc. One good thing about the Microsquirt is that you can specify that shift changes occur with the TCC unlocked (or locked if you want). Yes very quick shifts with my stage 2 valve body. You know that it has changed gears for sure.

Sorry I'm a bit slow to respond to your reply. Been a bit busy.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Here are a few photos of some parts.

Bellhousing from the ZD30 transmission with the holes drilled for TD42 starter and a bit of clearance for the new starter


Torque converter from a ZD30, known as the "T4" model. Rebuilt and heavy duty. New frictions etc for the lockup clutch of course. As low stall as possible


Heavy duty flexplate from Magnum performance. Also known as a "billet" flexplate by some resellers. This is to suit a ZD30, which has the same crank bolt PCD as a non factory turbo TD42 engine. So this suits my 1990 silvertop engine



When you buy the above HD flexplate it comes with a crank spacer, which goes between the crank and the flexplate



When you get a ZD30 Flexplate and crank spacer from Magnum Performance as above, you don't get this washer/plate that goes on the rear of the flexplate and is what the crank bolt heads press against. So you need to source one of these from a wrecker or via Nissan (P/N [FONT=&quot]1233306J00)[/FONT]



Spacer, flexplate and washer ready for deployment. I also bought 7 new crank bolts because I knew that the last person to touch them was a very lazy and pathetic mechanic that could not be trusted, so I expected problems. The crank bolts are the same for ZD30 auto or manual and TD42 manual.
 

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Although I use the manual lockup less, I now have a tendency to drop it out of O/D for longish hills/rises so it locks itself in 3rd anyway.

I'm pretty confident the Nomad valve body, with increased overall line pressure, is easily compensating for any supposed inefficiency of the factory TCU. They were designed for towing with a stock trans/TC and TCU.
I also haven't found any disadvantage in using the factory TB45E TC with its normal stall speed. It just pulls like a train off the line, snaps into 2nd, sometimes even a little harshly but you know your clutches had no time to slip, and just keeps pulling..

I'm probably running somewhere around 100kw with the little Mamba turbo but it's an extremely nice véhicule to drive with the auto trans..

Sticking with as many of the stock TB45E components as possible is what made this conversion so cost effective after all.

I still have the beefed up trans I rebuilt with extra frictions to put in but I'll keep it as a spare while this one is running so well.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
When I had time to have the vehicle down I pulled out the manual box and transfer case
The clutch was removed and then the sandwich plate, or backing plate could come off.
To be able to access the torque converter to flexplate bolts when the auto is fitted, modifications to the manual backing plate are needed. I decided to take the bottom section off. Other options were to make a removable section below the starter, or the whole section near the starter. I had serious doubts about accessibility options near the starter as I wanted to be able to swing a toque wrench in there. Also working from underneath looked easier than leaning over.



Backing plate from the TD42 manual;



Where I cut


Two piece Backing plate


Later on when fitted, I put a thin strip of aluminium sikaflexed on to cover the small gap between the two pieces and seal up the bellhousing

Top section of backing plate fitted



The oil leak from the rocker cover has been fixed.



The heat wrap around the exhaust has gone too but left the dump a bit rusty. I will avoid using heat wrap again. It was there because the dump pipe would get hot and I went through a few leaking slave cylinders because the dump was almost touching the slave and must have heated up the seals.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Flexplate was then bolted onto the back of the engine and correctly torqued


The way I have removed and refitted gearboxes in the past is to put an engine crane through a front door. Seat is removed and in this case I also needed to take the door off due to my limited space in the garage. The transfer case is removed from the gearbox and lowered to the ground separately. Then the gearbox comes down after that. It works for me and I am able to do it by myself.
On this occasion I did it via the drivers side.


The torque converter had 2 litres of synthetic fluid added first then slid on the shaft and turned a few times so that it was sure to be engaged on all the splines. you can put more than 2L in but it might leak out and make a mess, apparently.


Once I thought TC was on properly I measured the distance from the bellhousing to the TC. For this combo (T4) it is supposed to be at least 18.1mm. Mine measured 20.3mm so all good to go.


Auto gearbox was slid on the ground under the Patrol, then hoisted up with the aid of a few floor jacks for positioning






Lining things up with the auto was much easier than doing a manual gearbox, which needs the splined shaft to slide up the clutch. With the Auto you just bolt the bellhousing to the engine.
 
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