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Discussion Starter #122
I am very seriously considering this conversion for my GQ. It has a TD42Ti engine in it, which is around 200kw and 700nm at the wheels.

I have been digging around for info, and see that @boosted_zd has the same engine as I do, so I have followed his findings. @timo_ed will be the same too I think.

About the only thing that doesn't add up to me is the problem with the converter that boosted had. I am sure that the Wholesale Automatics converter is a beaut bit of gear, but the price might frighten me (couldn't find it on-line). He used a J6, whereas Timo has used a T4 I thought.

What was the washup of this fellas? What do we think is the best option? Is the billet converter a good idea when you are making a lot of torque?

Like a few others, I would like to stay with a normal auto, rather than a straight manualised unit.
Here is my latest take on the torque converter situation for a 150kw+ TD42 auto.

You can get a T4 or J6 modified for as low stall as possible from a variety of places around the country. Stall speed will be about right and it will cost you about $700 to $1000 from what I have read. Might or might not include a core charge.
For this you will have a fully rebuilt TC with a new friction and it should last a long time if treated Ok.
The problem is the friction is quite small (about 100 to 130 cm square from memory) as the RE4 in standard form only had up to 400nm at the flywheel to deal with at most.
I remember reading timo_ed might have been having issues with his not handling the torque when locked up on the highway and may have been slipping.
My TC clutch activation on the TCU is set up to disengage at higher throttle positions so the clutch doesn't have to handle more torque than it can deal with.
So this standard type TC can't handle full power locked up by most accounts.

A billet TC is available from WSA and also Ashmores diesel & offroad (look on FB). It is based on a GM TC from a 6L80 or similar but its dimensions are the same as a T4.
From boosted_zd's comments in this thread it is tighter than a lowered stall Jatco TC and hence probably feels better under power as it will flare less. It should keep fluid temps lower.
It has a multi plate clutch and can handle full power with TCC engaged for most Td42's - Ashmores say 800nm is OK.
Stronger overall than a standard Jatco TC. Bought outright.
$1400 I gather

I also read that KEAS was going to get a better TC to fit the RE4 with a multi plate clutch to handle big power for the HP diesel offroad race GQ (1HD-FTE to RE4). So they might be worth asking too.

I won't be changing my Torque converter, but if I had my time again I would consider the billet TC as the extra cost is only about $400 to $700 more than a modified T4 or J6. The ability to put your foot down fully with the TCC locked up and have full confidence in not slipping the TCC would be great. Less TC slippage (tighter, as boosted_zd put it) and low stall is also what you want.

Given how much power you have I would suggest you just bite the bullet and get a billet TC and never have to think about it again.
 

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nissan patrol gq lwb,3"lift.
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I got a quote from Torqueflite in Melbourne.$1800(exchange) plus post both ways for billet flexplate and upgraded tc with extra clutches etc to convert a re4 from a 05 zd to my tb42.180rwhp and 1350 ft lbs torque.

Sent from my LG-K520 using Tapatalk
 

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Thanks for your thoughts Snatchy. In due course I will have to look at converters more closely, but I think for my Ti engine I will need the J6 unit like Boosted. I assume that WSA make both types. Interesting that he comments on how heavy it is compared to the others. And I agree that the extra money would be a good safeguard given the torque my engine produces. I will have a chat to WSA one day and get their version of why it is so good.
 

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OldMav, yes I will get onto that if you like, I should of taken more photos when I was building it all.

Question for those in the know, can a ZD30 TCU be used as a standalone in my TD42 patrol to operate this RE4R03A transmission? If not, I will have to go a full Compushift TCU, which is getting up there by the time it's all done!
Cheers

Paul.
 

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Question for those in the know, can a ZD30 TCU be used as a standalone in my TD42 patrol to operate this RE4R03A transmission? If not, I will have to go a full Compushift TCU, which is getting up there by the time it's all done!
Cheers

Paul.
No, with either the TB45E or ZD30 TCUs you need the ECU connected as well.
The TB42E or TD42 TCU will work standalone.

You wouldn’t need to go full compushift. There are more cost effective alternatives.
 

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Discussion Starter #127
No, with either the TB45E or ZD30 TCUs you need the ECU connected as well.
The TB42E or TD42 TCU will work standalone.

You wouldn’t need to go full compushift. There are more cost effective alternatives.
Spitronics would be the cheapest direct from Sth Africa
PCM from Marks Adaptors
Microsquirt from Shiftkits Australia
 

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One of our members had a rebuilt ZD30 auto with a Nomad valve body in it that he was not using so I have bought that off him today. It has never been apart to check the work done by a previous owner, but has obviously been apart looking at the new seals and silicone over it. I will check it out, and have a look at what clutches are in it etc, but it should be a good thing.

And so it begins!
 

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One of our members had a rebuilt ZD30 auto with a Nomad valve body in it that he was not using so I have bought that off him today. It has never been apart to check the work done by a previous owner, but has obviously been apart looking at the new seals and silicone over it. I will check it out, and have a look at what clutches are in it etc, but it should be a good thing.

And so it begins!
If you open it to check the clutch counts, you might as well add the extra clutches and frictions.
It would be a good idea with the power you’re making.

I have spare clutches/frictions here. I also have the loom and plugs you’ll need if you don’t have any of that yet. Loom needs some work but nothing difficult.

Also have a stand I made you can borrow. Makes working on them easier..
 

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If you open it to check the clutch counts, you might as well add the extra clutches and frictions.
It would be a good idea with the power you’re making.

I have spare clutches/frictions here. I also have the loom and plugs you’ll need if you don’t have any of that yet. Loom needs some work but nothing difficult.

Also have a stand I made you can borrow. Makes working on them easier..
Thanks very much. First step was getting the box, so I still need to work on the rest of the parts list. Not sure exactly what I need yet. I have a basic parts list, but will need to work out some details.

I agree on doing any mods that the box needs. Apart from the Nomad it has stock internals.
 

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This particular thread of Snatchy's pretty much covers what you'll need..
You'll probably need your tacho working too.
Yeah, pretty much. Boostedzd has used the bits I need as he has a Ti engine with the different crank size, and similar power and torque output.

As for the tacho, I have another avenue to follow up on that, so hopefully I can fix it eventually. I am going to try to get another signal into the Dakota, and not bother trying to use a Nissan sensor. The Dakota will work from an input from the alternator, so will give that some more thought.
 

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No, with either the TB45E or ZD30 TCUs you need the ECU connected as well.
The TB42E or TD42 TCU will work standalone.

You wouldn’t need to go full compushift. There are more cost effective alternatives.
Hi John.
What options is there for control over these transmissions?

Also my bad, the other torque convertor I have is apparently out of the TD42T, and is the J7 type. It is much bigger, and yes, will not fit in the smooth bellhousing.
So my next question is, will the ZD30 ribbed bellhousing bolt in place of the smooth bellhousing (I know the starter motor mod needs to be done)
Cheers.
AGRO.
 

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Hi John.
What options is there for control over these transmissions?

Cheers.
AGRO.
Mate, Snatchy listed them just above in post #127

I’ve never been interested in aftermarket solutions. I kept my TB45 controls and they work fine for my requirements.
 

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I am using the TB45E TCU to control my transmission - it works well enough - but to be honest I will probably end up going to a standalone solution sooner or later. For me, I particularly want to be able to program the TCC lock-up so that I basically never need to use a manual lock up switch.

If I end up going down this route, personally I would use the MicroSquirt TCU since I am quite familiar with the MegaSquirt EFI range and I like the functionality offered.
 

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Mate, Snatchy listed them just above in post #127

I’ve never been interested in aftermarket solutions. I kept my TB45 controls and they work fine for my requirements.
Yes, I looked at them.
I've been in contact with Marks, a little over 1K for a TCU, which I think is pretty good considering I will then have full control over the transmission.
Will leave this part till last, until I'm ready to go.

AGRO.
 

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Discussion Starter #137
So my next question is, will the ZD30 ribbed bellhousing bolt in place of the smooth bellhousing (I know the starter motor mod needs to be done)
Cheers.
AGRO.
Have a read through this thread. Post 43 on On page 3 has the info as to why that might work but will cause other issues.
It would be great if you could do some measurements on your smooth bellhousing model to confirm some of the measurements.
Cheers
 

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Here is some general info on the RE4R03A in patrols;


When sourcing a donor automatic there is a choice of models from 1987 to 2016. They all have basically the same auto gearbox but there were some important differences.

GQ series 1 TB42 carby and TD42 auto have the smooth bellhousing and smaller torque converter. Series 1 GQ autos were not as strong as Series 2 GQ and GU autos. The early models are from 1987 to August 1992 build date and can be identified by the smooth bellhousing. Later models have the ribbed bellhousing and are the ones to get. The torque converter is also larger in the later ribbed models, which is preferable. The older autos with smooth bellhousing are best avoided by most accounts and by now they would be at least 25 years old. As with most things, there are small refinements over time.

Later autos from Ribbed bellhousings have an input shaft that extends out about 93mm. I have read that smooth bellhousing autos have a shaft extending 15mm shorter, so that would make them about 78mm.

Later autos with ribbed bellhousings have the following approximate measurements – bellhousing length 180mm, case length 390mm, rear adaptor 110mm.



Smooth bellhousing autos should have a bellhousing that is shorter, and a rear adaptor that is longer. By how much? I’m not sure but about 15mm based on the transfer case shift gate length - don't rely on that measurement ;) . Main trans length (390mm) should be the same as later models;




There were also some oiling problems in some GQs that caused early transmission failures.

GU autos have a valve body that is slightly improved with the ability to lock the TCC in all 4 gears. GQ valve bodies can only lock the TC in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears. The factory TCU only locks the transmission in 3rd and 4th but if you add wiring you can lockup in st and 2nd.

If you are looking for a donor transmission, then you may as well get a newer model from a GU patrol. They all seem to have the same wiring and plugs. The starter motor mounts are different between the various models, but that can be sorted out by drilling and tapping new holes to suit the TD42 starter.

Look in here to see the minor internal differences between some of the RE4R03A models in GU Patrols and other vehicles. See the 3rd table in post #3. http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-55/re4r03a-transmission-rebuild-guide-111481/

OK.
I've just taken some measurements from the transmission I have here, smooth bellhousing, smaller TC. This was out of a factory GQ TD42 (Apparently).

Bell Housing length= 165mm.
Case length= 392mm.
Rear Adapter= 125mm.
Input Shaft length= 80mm.
TC diameter= 270mm (has C3 stamped into it)

I have another TC here, apparently out of a TD42T, has J7 stamped into it, and is 320mm diameter.
 

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Discussion Starter #139
OK.
I've just taken some measurements from the transmission I have here, smooth bellhousing, smaller TC. This was out of a factory GQ TD42 (Apparently).

Bell Housing length= 165mm.
Case length= 392mm.
Rear Adapter= 125mm.
Input Shaft length= 80mm.
TC diameter= 270mm (has C3 stamped into it)

I have another TC here, apparently out of a TD42T, has J7 stamped into it, and is 320mm diameter.
Thanks for those measurements. The numbers I found before were about right.
 

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Re4ro3a wiring Anomaly

Contrary to snatchies wiring photos (page 3) my shifter plug is grey and my valve body plug is brown if we follow snatchies wiring colours. That is to say the plugs seem to have been changed over. Now in the valve body plug in pinout 8 where snatchy has no wire i have an orange wire in da hole. Anyone hazard a guess what that wire is for??? I was told this box was out of a zd30 unknown year. Cheers!
 
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