Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum banner

141 - 160 of 178 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
452 Posts
Discussion Starter #142
Contrary to snatchies wiring photos (page 3) my shifter plug is grey and my valve body plug is brown if we follow snatchies wiring colours. That is to say the plugs seem to have been changed over. Now in the valve body plug in pinout 8 where snatchy has no wire i have an orange wire in da hole. Anyone hazard a guess what that wire is for??? I was told this box was out of a zd30 unknown year. Cheers!
Sounds like you found the info you wanted.
Interesting that the plug colours are different with yours, but otherwise they are interchangable
 

·
Registered
GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
Joined
·
4,112 Posts
I had an opportunity to talk to Rodney from Wholesale Automatics at the 4wd show. A couple of points of interest:

Given they make two valve bodies, the Nomad, and the Extreme, I asked which is the best option. The Nomad will give a smoother shift, and should do the job well, on an engine that makes lots of power and torque, such as 200kw and 700nm. The Extreme will handle harsher use/more power but it gives a harsher shift. If you are gunna flog it, the Extreme may be a better option. For normal use the Nomad should do the trick.

When it comes to oil coolers, Rod reckons not to bother with steel lines, and just use rubber lines. I suggested trying to get some factory lines for my conversion and he advised against it. Also, in the case that two oil coolers are needed, and space is minimal, they can be stacked, one in front of the other, but offset as much as possible, in a "Z" pattern. The coolers in their kits are PWR items.

He informed me that in their opinion the standard torque converter in the Nissan box is not very strong, and they sell many new converters to owners with standard vehicles. I can only assume this means 3lt engines. Caravanners with standard vehicles are regular customers, he says.

Their billet torque converter is much stronger than standard. When I asked if it is suitable for 200kw and 700nm, he advised they can handle much more than that, around 1,100hp. He was unconcerned by my application. We discussed stall speed and as with most of us, we are trying to produce as much low end torque as we can, so we need a low stall. So what they supply in a billet converter will start to give some drive from 600rpm, and have full lock-up by 2100rpm.

Oh, and the price...... lots. About $1,750 plus freight.
 

·
Registered
nissan gq
Joined
·
332 Posts
I had an opportunity to talk to Rodney from Wholesale Automatics at the 4wd show. A couple of points of interest:

Given they make two valve bodies, the Nomad, and the Extreme, I asked which is the best option. The Nomad will give a smoother shift, and should do the job well, on an engine that makes lots of power and torque, such as 200kw and 700nm. The Extreme will handle harsher use/more power but it gives a harsher shift. If you are gunna flog it, the Extreme may be a better option. For normal use the Nomad should do the trick.

When it comes to oil coolers, Rod reckons not to bother with steel lines, and just use rubber lines. I suggested trying to get some factory lines for my conversion and he advised against it. Also, in the case that two oil coolers are needed, and space is minimal, they can be stacked, one in front of the other, but offset as much as possible, in a "Z" pattern. The coolers in their kits are PWR items.

He informed me that in their opinion the standard torque converter in the Nissan box is not very strong, and they sell many new converters to owners with standard vehicles. I can only assume this means 3lt engines. Caravanners with standard vehicles are regular customers, he says.

Their billet torque converter is much stronger than standard. When I asked if it is suitable for 200kw and 700nm, he advised they can handle much more than that, around 1,100hp. He was unconcerned by my application. We discussed stall speed and as with most of us, we are trying to produce as much low end torque as we can, so we need a low stall. So what they supply in a billet converter will start to give some drive from 600rpm, and have full lock-up by 2100rpm.

Oh, and the price...... lots. About $1,750 plus freight.
Gday mate, I used factory steal cooler lines for my conversion did he say anymore about why he advised not to use them?

cheers jim
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
4,840 Posts
Are you saying he advises against using steel lines from the trans to the front like the factory lines?
If so, that can’t be right. The steel lines are fixed solidly from the trans right along the edge of the sump so there’s no risk of damage.
It would be silly to put rubber lines there.

Rod is the ultimate salesman and, although they do know there stuff, what they sell is often priced way above what it’s really worth.
 

·
Registered
GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
Joined
·
4,112 Posts
Sorry fellas, I have not been clear enough with what I wrote. There is nothing wrong with the factory steel lines at all, but in his opinion there is no reason to go to the trouble of trying to fit them in my case. Rubber lines work well, are easy to fit, and in the case of damage in the bush, are easy to repair.

You are certainly correct John, they charge premium prices for their product. The oil cooler kits are an example of this, as we can get the same result from an almost identical part at much less cost. The only part of theirs that I have purchased is the billet torque converter. I will source the other components I need elsewhere.
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
4,840 Posts
You don't want something that's easy to repair, you want something that will never need repair.

I might have a spare set of steel lines, I'll have to check. I think I sweated one of the banjos off for my P4x4 water cooling but never used it. It could be brazed back on.
I'll check to make sure I haven't cut them.
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
205 Posts
Great thread guys. Thanks for all the info.
Just picked up a Compushift with screen and loom and will be looking for an auto and all other bits over winter to do the conversion in my TD42na (turbo) GQ later in the year.

Currently putting wifes GU (zd30) auto back in after flex plate busted, taking out tc and damaging trans, I keep wondering if the tc went first (it was quite high rpm stall with the ECPT tune and lots of torque) and took out the flex plate. Got the reco converter from Torque Converter Technology in Melbourne. Apparently it has some upgraded bearings etc, $495 c/o.
Had the trans repaired at Yarra Valley Automatics. The guy there likes the RE auto and builds them to go behind all sorts of high powered stuff, including 2wd's. He has all kinds of upgrade and billet parts for them.
One of the things he did on this one was replace the plastiuc shim behind the oil pump with a roller bearing.
The guys at Patrol a part put me on to him. It was after meeting him last week that I decided to look into a conversion for my GQ.
Once again all your info is much appreciated.
Gee
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
205 Posts
I cant remember why, I think the plastic just wears and opens up the clearance.
It seemed logical when he told me but I didn't take a lot of notice, sorry
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
251 Posts
Haven't been on here a while, been busy playing with my own compound setup.

Quick update the new converter is still going great, took it to fraser before xmas and even with giving it a good flogging in the sand and only having the factory cooler hooked up for the trip the auto ran cooler than it used to on the hwy 😁

Only drawback is the low stall now makes the turbo lag very obvious on takeoff especially in soft sand, hence why i started to compound it

Went with a gtx2860 gen 2 with 45 external gate and a gt3576 internal gate but think the 2860 is still too large, 100% confident the last person that tuned my 12mm f'd up the tune and thats causing my lack of power down low especially since a mates factory auto td with a 10mm left me for dead for dead until 50kph.

Unfortunatly working 4&1 means i don't get much time to play with it so going back to a single until i get time at home to fiddle with the compound setup.

The hard part now is picking a turbo that will give me 250hp with no lag....... a man can dream lol.
 

·
Registered
GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
Joined
·
4,112 Posts
Haven't been on here a while, been busy playing with my own compound setup.

Quick update the new converter is still going great, took it to fraser before xmas and even with giving it a good flogging in the sand and only having the factory cooler hooked up for the trip the auto ran cooler than it used to on the hwy 😁

Only drawback is the low stall now makes the turbo lag very obvious on takeoff especially in soft sand, hence why i started to compound it

Went with a gtx2860 gen 2 with 45 external gate and a gt3576 internal gate but think the 2860 is still too large, 100% confident the last person that tuned my 12mm f'd up the tune and thats causing my lack of power down low especially since a mates factory auto td with a 10mm left me for dead for dead until 50kph.

Unfortunatly working 4&1 means i don't get much time to play with it so going back to a single until i get time at home to fiddle with the compound setup.

The hard part now is picking a turbo that will give me 250hp with no lag....... a man can dream lol.
Hmmm........ not to hi-jack this thread, but hasn't that question already been answered? I forget what you were running before, but I think that 200kw and 650+nm of torque can be done a few ways to give what you need. Also, your torque converter has full lock-up by 2100rpm Rod tells me. I just bought one myself and discussed it with him. That should give your turbo every chance to spool up well. Perhaps your comment on the IP is where the problem lies.

Having said that, twin turbo anything is cool. :cool:
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
402 Posts
wow
great write up
i wish i knew this info about the flex plate and spacers
5 years ago when i put th400 behind td42
that would make my life much easier, be cheaper and no headaches with custom machining :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
452 Posts
Discussion Starter #154 (Edited)
I had an opportunity to talk to Rodney from Wholesale Automatics at the 4wd show. A couple of points of interest:

Given they make two valve bodies, the Nomad, and the Extreme, I asked which is the best option. The Nomad will give a smoother shift, and should do the job well, on an engine that makes lots of power and torque, such as 200kw and 700nm. The Extreme will handle harsher use/more power but it gives a harsher shift. If you are gunna flog it, the Extreme may be a better option. For normal use the Nomad should do the trick.

When it comes to oil coolers, Rod reckons not to bother with steel lines, and just use rubber lines. I suggested trying to get some factory lines for my conversion and he advised against it. Also, in the case that two oil coolers are needed, and space is minimal, they can be stacked, one in front of the other, but offset as much as possible, in a "Z" pattern. The coolers in their kits are PWR items.

He informed me that in their opinion the standard torque converter in the Nissan box is not very strong, and they sell many new converters to owners with standard vehicles. I can only assume this means 3lt engines. Caravanners with standard vehicles are regular customers, he says.

Their billet torque converter is much stronger than standard. When I asked if it is suitable for 200kw and 700nm, he advised they can handle much more than that, around 1,100hp. He was unconcerned by my application. We discussed stall speed and as with most of us, we are trying to produce as much low end torque as we can, so we need a low stall. So what they supply in a billet converter will start to give some drive from 600rpm, and have full lock-up by 2100rpm.

Oh, and the price...... lots. About $1,750 plus freight.
I remember speaking to the guys at Kewish who also do TD42 auto conversions. They build each valve body to customers requirements depending on power levels. WSA do their valve bodies at Nomad and Extreme. KEAS do stage 1 and 2. I think it is all similar level mods with different names
My stage 2 bangs a bit when changing gear at light loads. If I have others in the car I tend to know when it will change gears and give the throttle a push at that time so there is power when the gear changes and it is much smoother. Its not for everyone

I would like to have one of those Billet converters but at that price it makes it hard to justify in an old vehicle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
452 Posts
Discussion Starter #155
Haven't been on here a while, been busy playing with my own compound setup.

Quick update the new converter is still going great, took it to fraser before xmas and even with giving it a good flogging in the sand and only having the factory cooler hooked up for the trip the auto ran cooler than it used to on the hwy 😁

Only drawback is the low stall now makes the turbo lag very obvious on takeoff especially in soft sand, hence why i started to compound it

Went with a gtx2860 gen 2 with 45 external gate and a gt3576 internal gate but think the 2860 is still too large, 100% confident the last person that tuned my 12mm f'd up the tune and thats causing my lack of power down low especially since a mates factory auto td with a 10mm left me for dead for dead until 50kph.

Unfortunatly working 4&1 means i don't get much time to play with it so going back to a single until i get time at home to fiddle with the compound setup.

The hard part now is picking a turbo that will give me 250hp with no lag....... a man can dream lol.
Good to hear the billet TC goes well and seems to run very cool.
I have two coolers (280 x 255 and 230 x 255mm) and when towing small loads it can get over 90 degrees around town in hilly terrain without being even being stupid with the accelerator if the TCC doesn't lock up. Less slip from the Billet TC would generate less heat. Sounds like it is the way to go

You've got to get a new tune first. You should be absolutely killing it with an auto and 12mm pump
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
452 Posts
Discussion Starter #156
wow
great write up
i wish i knew this info about the flex plate and spacers
5 years ago when i put th400 behind td42
that would make my life much easier, be cheaper and no headaches with custom machining :p
I remember some of your comments and questions! I read them years after you posted and thought that I now knew the answers to some of your questions, but it was too late.
Your issues and others motivated me to write some of the previous posts as it was bound to help someone
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
402 Posts
I remember some of your comments and questions! I read them years after you posted and thought that I now knew the answers to some of your questions, but it was too late.
Your issues and others motivated me to write some of the previous posts as it was bound to help someone
you did great job on the write up :bigthumb:

im finishing the jeep now. we finally settled in new house and i build my own garage so i can work on my project every day.
this project been going on way too long
i cant wait to hear the engine run and see if it all worked out

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
452 Posts
Discussion Starter #158 (Edited)
you did great job on the write up :bigthumb:

im finishing the jeep now. we finally settled in new house and i build my own garage so i can work on my project every day.
this project been going on way too long
i cant wait to hear the engine run and see if it all worked out
Good to read your up date. Hope it fires up OK. Its a unique vehicle!
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
251 Posts
I would have thought there would be not much lag either but there was, narrowed it down to an EFR or UFI turbo and will be getting it tuned next time i'm home so we'll see what difference that makes, lots i hope ;)

Hmmm........ not to hi-jack this thread, but hasn't that question already been answered? I forget what you were running before, but I think that 200kw and 650+nm of torque can be done a few ways to give what you need. Also, your torque converter has full lock-up by 2100rpm Rod tells me. I just bought one myself and discussed it with him. That should give your turbo every chance to spool up well. Perhaps your comment on the IP is where the problem lies.

Having said that, twin turbo anything is cool. :cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,218 Posts
good read snatch.

il need to read it again and again and again to soak everything in and write it all down.
im gathering parts for a auto swap in my 200kw/750 odd nm efr rig.

seems like there is quite a few options with everything.
ive talked to John on his and said i would ring a few suppliers before i bother everyone with trivial posts.
 
141 - 160 of 178 Posts
Top