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Hi Timo,

Sorry I missed this post, my conversion was put on hold due to work commitments etc. I've only just got back to it now. Currently going through wiring etc. as we speak. I have the GU manuals and I'm running a Spitronics TCU, just need to clear up some info on the Spitronics wiring and we are away.

One thing I found that didn't seem to pop up in the research and forum threads was the positioning of the transmission in the GU iv factory TD42Ti. I have all donor parts from a ZD of the same year model. There are differences in shifters and cross members, possibly driveshafts but I haven't measured yet. I'm running the ZD auto box sitting on the TD gearbox cross member, had to use the TD transfer shifter and also had to cut and shut the auto shifter by about 40mm otherwise I had no Park and started off in Reverse :bananada::bananada:

After revising this post I fear I may have stuffed up with the fitment of my Magnum flex plate. It came with a machined spacer that fit over the end of the crank and another flat spacer plate. I have put the flat plate under the bolts same as the factory ZD "washer" setup. I read somewhere about bolt clearance issues on the Magnum flexplates. Should that flat plate be behind the flexplate as well as the machined spacer? I did measure clearances etc. before fitting the trans. and found with the converter pushed all the way home there was about 4mm difference ie the converter would pull out of the trans. 4mm when the flexplate/converter bolts were tightened. If the extra plate was between the flexplate and crank then the converter would basically be pushed hard into the trans.

Cheers,
Doc.

Hey Doc, I'm doing the same thing as you to my 06 factory TD42ti. Im half way thru the install after blue printing the box. Haven't physically done the wiring yet but have mapped/drawn it up.

Have you got the AT.pdf? ... if not you need it.
 

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Discussion Starter #162 (Edited)
Hi Timo,
One thing I found that didn't seem to pop up in the research and forum threads was the positioning of the transmission in the GU iv factory TD42Ti. I have all donor parts from a ZD of the same year model. There are differences in shifters and cross members, possibly driveshafts but I haven't measured yet. I'm running the ZD auto box sitting on the TD gearbox cross member, had to use the TD transfer shifter and also had to cut and shut the auto shifter by about 40mm otherwise I had no Park and started off in Reverse
Cheers,
Doc.

Hi Doc
I noticed this in a few posts but it is not widely discussed, I agree. It is a bit confusing on what bits to use depending on what combination you are using.

You have summarised it, but for benefit of someone (?) reading, this is what I remember;

-All the TD and TB engines and transmissions (man/auto) have the same crossmembers and engine mount positions.
-The ZD30 engine whether from an manual or auto is in the same position
-The ZD30 auto has the auto trans sitting forward 35mm compared to manual
-The ZD30 manual has a 35mm spacer between the bellhousing and back of engine, so the manual trans sits further back than its auto counterpart. Not sure how the ZD30 manual gearbox sits relative to a TB/TD.
-The difference in trans mounts ZD30 auto to manual is accomodated by different crossmembers. The mounts for the crossmember to the chassis are in the same spot.
-I looked but couldn't find definative info on different driveshaft lengths between Zd30 auto or manual

Jacket 1985 did most of a ZD30 auto to TD42 auto conversion;
http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/members-rides-19/jacket-bought-zd30-83440/
He left the auto where it was so the TD42 sat further forward than usual. This helped access the rear most exhaust studs on the TD42, but had clearance issues with panhard rod or mount, and fan to radiator distance decreased.
 

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Discussion Starter #163
Hi Timo,

After revising this post I fear I may have stuffed up with the fitment of my Magnum flex plate. It came with a machined spacer that fit over the end of the crank and another flat spacer plate. I have put the flat plate under the bolts same as the factory ZD "washer" setup. I read somewhere about bolt clearance issues on the Magnum flexplates. Should that flat plate be behind the flexplate as well as the machined spacer? I did measure clearances etc. before fitting the trans. and found with the converter pushed all the way home there was about 4mm difference ie the converter would pull out of the trans. 4mm when the flexplate/converter bolts were tightened. If the extra plate was between the flexplate and crank then the converter would basically be pushed hard into the trans.

Cheers,
Doc.

I think you have the spacer in the right place, but this post (#96 for page 5 of this thread) suggests you don't want that spacer there at all;
http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/6250522-post96.html

Here is what I understand

The standard setup in say, a ZD30 auto is (front to back);
crank, machined spacer, factory flexplate, load spreading washer, all 7 bolts.

I fitted to my smaller crank NA TD42, as described earlier in this thread;
crank, machined spacer, magnum flexplate, load spreading washer, all 7 bolts.

timo_ed suggests that with a thicker magnum HD flexplate, the load spreading washer is not needed (magnum didn't tell me this hence i put the washer in), and in a factory turbo (larger diameter) crank the load spreading washer will make the 7 crank bolts touch the torque converter once all fitted up.

So my understanding is that with a HD flexplate and definately with a turbo crank you should fit it in this order;
crank, machined spacer, magnum flexplate, all 7 bolts. (Discard the plate/load spreading washer)

Given the plate/washer causes issues, I don't understand why magnum supply it with the larger PCD crank (factory turbo) and under what circumstances it is supposed to be used?

4mm clearance pulling the TC forward when doing the TC to flexplate bolts sounds about right. The minimum clearances are listed somewhere. 18.1mm from bellhousing to TC face is minimum spec for ZD30 T4 converters.
 

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Discussion Starter #164
good read snatch.

il need to read it again and again and again to soak everything in and write it all down.
im gathering parts for a auto swap in my 200kw/750 odd nm efr rig.

seems like there is quite a few options with everything.
ive talked to John on his and said i would ring a few suppliers before i bother everyone with trivial posts.

Glad its useful to you.
Its not really light reading and I agree you need to read it a few times as there is a bit of detail involved in getting a suitable combo right the first time. I've just re-read it myself and there is stuff I'd forgotten.
 

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very good writing, learn a lots of information. make me feel confidence to do it myself ..
 

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.....

Spacer, flexplate and washer ready for deployment. I also bought 7 new crank bolts because I knew that the last person to touch them was a very lazy and pathetic mechanic that could not be trusted, so I expected problems. The crank bolts are the same for ZD30 auto or manual and TD42 manual.
[/QUOTE]

very good writing! I am also thinking about upgrade the TC , and also another Flexplate for different engine which has 8 mounting bolts. so i need to build a custom flexplate. i have few questions, what the final stall number for this modified TC? what is the bell housing diameter? can i use a flexplate either 380mm, or 362mm sizes. when you measure the position of the TC, what is the setback from the bell housing? as i need to find out how much should the new flex plate's position in relation to the bellhousing's front edge. see the photo, is my measurement correct? the diameter is 370mm for the standard zd30 flexplate, the the distant to the mounting hole is 124mm, it has 122 teeh? thank,
 

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Hi all,

Have my Patrol up and running with Spitronics TCU.
For those that are driving auto Patrols, is it normal that they pretty much neutralize on deceleration? Whenever I take my foot off, say pulling up to an intersection it just drops to idle and coasts until you stop relying on brakes only.
 

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It shouldn't drop to idle with no throttle - the overrun clutch should be engaged below about 30% throttle which allows engine braking particularly in 2nd and 3rd gears.
 

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I swapped valve bodys a while ago and mine suddenly started to do this also, completely lost all engine braking. pulled valve body out and re-installed same body and it worked again. no idea why

Hi all,

Have my Patrol up and running with Spitronics TCU.
For those that are driving auto Patrols, is it normal that they pretty much neutralize on deceleration? Whenever I take my foot off, say pulling up to an intersection it just drops to idle and coasts until you stop relying on brakes only.
 

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just to update, I installed the EFR turbo a while ago and had someone more competent than the last few tuners look at the pump.
After a few pump modifications it's now far more responsive down low, last week changed from 4.6 to 4.11 diff gears and noticed the extra load helped low down spool a fair bit.

Now it's making power like it should first thing i noticed is that stall converter now takes off like usual (possibly too low if anything) but once on boost it flares up to approx 3300. so much for rodneys 2200 or whatever he claims. going to try a low stalled T4 now as i'm pulling the box out next week, something let go on my way home from brissie and now as soon as it selects 4th my auto temps skyrocket even with the tcc locked.

pulled the sump off to find it full of metal and pieces of rubber (appear to be broken o-rings)
 

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Discussion Starter #172
just to update, I installed the EFR turbo a while ago and had someone more competent than the last few tuners look at the pump.
After a few pump modifications it's now far more responsive down low, last week changed from 4.6 to 4.11 diff gears and noticed the extra load helped low down spool a fair bit.

Now it's making power like it should first thing i noticed is that stall converter now takes off like usual (possibly too low if anything) but once on boost it flares up to approx 3300. so much for rodneys 2200 or whatever he claims. going to try a low stalled T4 now as i'm pulling the box out next week, something let go on my way home from brissie and now as soon as it selects 4th my auto temps skyrocket even with the tcc locked.

pulled the sump off to find it full of metal and pieces of rubber (appear to be broken o-rings)

Your bad luck never seems to end. Pulling the trans must be very quick by now. All the best with the next TC. It would be good to know how it compares to all the others.
I thought the WSA Billet TC would be the best, but maybe not.
 

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just been one thing after another with this build.

due to time restraints had to fit the wholesale converter back in but managed to get it slightly modified first with the stall lowered some more.

once the old box was out quickly stripped it to find no clutch material left on most of the packs and several damaged seals, It appears when it was rebuilt (bought it 2nd hand) they didn't assemble it correctly so was doomed from the start.

I didn't have time to wait for a built box so just installed a low K box, did about 500km standard just to see how it drove, without a valvebody they are terrible behind a big hp TD.

After 500km installed a new style valvebody from JDs to test, what a difference that made. No slip at all, almost instant shifts, no flair up between shifts, one very happy man finally

After having the converter modified I noticed under full boost it now flairs up to around 2700 which is a big improvement, looking to install a smaller turbo now so i'll see what happens after that
 

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Is the JD valvebody fully manualised? Do you get engine braking in gears as per usual?

When you say the converter flares to 2700rpm, is that in gear while moving? What is the stall speed when the car is stopped (i.e. foot on brake, handbrake on, full throttle for 1-2 seconds max)
 

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if I just floor it the stalls about 1450rpm, footbrake stalls to about 1600.

fully auto valvebody and yes has engine braking as per factory
 

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What TC are you using?

Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk
 

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Hi Everyone, Does anyone have an opinion on the J7 TC. I happen to be in possession of one and now giving consideration to which flexplate to run with for my TD42T
 

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Discussion Starter #178
Hi Everyone, Does anyone have an opinion on the J7 TC. I happen to be in possession of one and now giving consideration to which flexplate to run with for my TD42T
Sorry no first hand experience with a J7. I believe it's a standard TD42 converter, so should work OK?
 
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