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To even get started, need an inlet manifold adapter.
This one from Denco costs more than the intercooler element but will at least get things going.
Eventually, if things work out ok, the plan is to get an improved inlet manifold fabricated.
In the meantime this adapter can be rotated in 90 degree increments, to allow experimentation with FMIC, W2A or a straight crossover pipe.
I have one that looks like dogs balls if you want it you can have it
 

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TD42 GQ
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Discussion Starter #222
I have one that looks like dogs balls if you want it you can have it
Mate, that'd be a big help, where are you located, I could either pick it up or pay for postage
 

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I might be an ahole,had a look couldn’t find it.its a 90deg water fitting welded to the plate.ill have a better look tomorrow arvo.hope I haven’t opened my big mouth too soon again 🤥
 

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TD42 GQ
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Discussion Starter #224
Mate, no worries and no hurry. I too have stuff I know exists but no idea where it might be.
 

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SUI GENERIS UTE
GQ Ute 1990 Silvertop
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Not that there is a lot of W/A systems about but i have seen more engines hydraulic due to head gasket issues after the engine is stopped when pressure pushes water into the cylinder. When a core splits water enters the induction system only when there is low boost as the W/A system only has at best 6 psi using big pumps so the boost air usually keeps the water at bay until engine stopped. Beside that some of us actually inject up to a litre of water methanol per minute into our engine befor and sort of quenching or flame out.

From experience i have had a few split cores hence why i use bell or garret cores. Running up to 30 psi boost will see water pissing out the cooler relief valve or low pressure radiator cap and the reason why i use one, before hydraulic issues you will see white smoke or mist expelling out the exhaust. So in my humble opinion its a non issue. Just use a 6psi relief cap and you are safe. .
 

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So, @patrolling here we go, 50mm cores at a reasonable price.

This one, with the in/outlet offset:

This one, with the in/outlet centered, may flow more efficiently even though it's smaller, due to the in/outlet positioning. It also has central mounting bosses that would align with the bonnet catch support.

Both should fit easily behind the grille. I think the cooling would be sufficient for a moderately powered TD42.
The retailer, I've also seen them on eBay, I don't know about their quality, I guess they'd be on par with other low cost options.
sorry mate I haven't looked into / researched the 'delta' cores and have never heard of that brand - doesn't mean they aren't any good. I was always going to try get a ~600x400x50 size and design some custom end tanks to try use all of the core. I remember really liking the look of the R32 GTR style end tanks. they are on maybe a ~600x400x60 core. would be interesting to get one of those and see how it looks.

cooling capacity needed really comes down to your compressor efficiency. I do know from data that I have gathered using decent k type thermocouples and RTD (both NATA calibrated) that the safari compressor outlet temps can get up in the high hundred degrees at just 10psi. so you will need a decent cooler.

and I have quenched a td42 (w safari turbo) with just a cooling mist C7(~700ml/minute tested 200psi @ pump) post turbo at 10 psi manifold, 100% H20. bit of steam power never hurt any one.
 

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SUI GENERIS UTE
GQ Ute 1990 Silvertop
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and I have quenched a td42 (w safari turbo) with just a cooling mist C7(~700ml/minute tested 200psi @ pump) post turbo at 10 psi manifold, 100% H20. bit of steam power never hurt any one.
That will do it post turbo @200 psi especially at 10psi and 100% duty cycle that would be over a litre a minute on a C7.
 

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TD42 GQ
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Discussion Starter #228
Now there's another option that I'd considered and put in the too-hard basket - water injection.
On a long hill climb the air temperature at the manifold is 116 degrees or higher.
The water injection discussions I'd been watching had related to the 3L diesel and were pre-turbo.
However @patrolling mentioned post-turbo injection which, for me, would be easier to implement.
The Safari turbo crossover duct has a port above the rocker cover. I have a thermocouple there at present. Would that be a suitable place to put a nozzle?
I'm thinking that a reasonably basic setup would work post-turbo? Set the threshold at maybe 8-10psi?
 

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Discussion Starter #229
Reading through search results for water+injection, I came across this post regarding front mount intercoolers, the take-away is, 600x200mm bar and plate with centre-entry hoses is a good configuration for our TD42. Fmic and fan
 

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Discussion Starter #231
The one with a 90 has been thrown out but have straight one if it’s any use to you
Thanks! The straight one may actually be better, I can clamp an elbow onto it for any angle required.
 

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Discussion Starter #232
This might do for a FMIC...
It looks good quality at a reasonable price and it ought to fit high up behind the grille.
710W x 200H x 65D overall
Bar and plate
Offset fins
Cast tanks
2.5" hoses, centered

The product looks good, the company seems to have been around for a while. Or am I falling for their glossy website and marketing hype?
 

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Just read entire thread, awesome GQ mate especially having it since new!! Awesome economy youre getting too! Those coolers look good.
On one of my GQs i used an ebay 550x220x57 and worked well and fit easily with aircon and minimal shaving on backside of grill. If you can fit 67 that would be better and allow no bottleneck for 67mm piping. Ran many CoolingPro coolers 600x300x76 including on my current GU and all seem to work well with no EGT issues, but lots of shaving on GQ, and series 2 grill helps as theyre deeper. But i have no chargeair temp sensors to compare, so now you've given me a project!!! What gauge and sensor you using for charge air temp?
Thanks mate.
James.
 

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TD42 GQ
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Discussion Starter #234 (Edited)
Just read entire thread, awesome GQ mate especially having it since new!! Awesome economy youre getting too! Those coolers look good.
On one of my GQs i used an ebay 550x220x57 and worked well and fit easily with aircon and minimal shaving on backside of grill. If you can fit 67 that would be better and allow no bottleneck for 67mm piping. Ran many CoolingPro coolers 600x300x76 including on my current GU and all seem to work well with no EGT issues, but lots of shaving on GQ, and series 2 grill helps as theyre deeper. But i have no chargeair temp sensors to compare, so now you've given me a project!!! What gauge and sensor you using for charge air temp?
Thanks mate.
James.
Thanks for the kind comments, having had the GQ since new, I know just how well it's been looked after. Actually since it ceased to be my daily driver I've been able to focus on improving it for touring and beach. Safe to say, it's better now than it has ever been.
Great advice from you re intercoolers.
I can pick up one of those 550x220x57 size coolers on eBay quite cheaply so they were my first option until I saw the Mishimoto products which look very well made. In all practicality though, the eBay cooler would probably do the job, as you have found. I'm not chasing 700nm or the last 2%, but I'd like 500nm and a safe reliable tourer.
That's another reason I'm going for front mount. It might introduce a bit of lag in traffic, but on the highway or the beach where it belongs, and has to pull for a long time, front mount would seem to be the most pragmatic solution.

Edit:
Info on gauge and sensor.
I'm using a digital type-K pyrometer with peak hold. The peak hold is good because I can do a run then check the max/min temps later on without having to look away from the road. That display was bought maybe 15 years ago and the people I got it from are still in business. I remember they were very helpful and competent in supplying adapters etc for the Safari Turbo crossover duct.

For the sensor I just have a basic type-K thermocouple probe, the same as what'd be used for EGT. For charge air it would be better to have an exposed tip probe, for faster response and less heat conduction to the manifold/duct.

These days I'd also consider Temptec on eBay, the display quality may not be as good as Thermoguard and they lack peak hold, but the display unit is smaller/stackable and they can supply exposed tip probes made for air ducts.
Once I get an intercooler set up I'd like to install exposed tip thermocouples and two of these displays so I have a running comparison of temps.
 

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Thanks for the kind comments, having had the GQ since new, I know just how well it's been looked after. Actually since it ceased to be my daily driver I've been able to focus on improving it for touring and beach. Safe to say, it's better now than it has ever been.
Great advice from you re intercoolers.
I can pick up one of those 550x220x57 size coolers on eBay quite cheaply so they were my first option until I saw the Mishimoto products which look very well made. In all practicality though, the eBay cooler would probably do the job, as you have found. I'm not chasing 700nm or the last 2%, but I'd like 500nm and a safe reliable tourer.
That's another reason I'm going for front mount. It might introduce a bit of lag in traffic, but on the highway or the beach where it belongs, and has to pull for a long time, front mount would seem to be the most pragmatic solution.

Edit:
Info on gauge and sensor.
I'm using a digital type-K pyrometer with peak hold. The peak hold is good because I can do a run then check the max/min temps later on without having to look away from the road. That display was bought maybe 15 years ago and the people I got it from are still in business. I remember they were very helpful and competent in supplying adapters etc for the Safari Turbo crossover duct.

For the sensor I just have a basic type-K thermocouple probe, the same as what'd be used for EGT. For charge air it would be better to have an exposed tip probe, for faster response and less heat conduction to the manifold/duct.

These days I'd also consider Temptec on eBay, the display quality may not be as good as Thermoguard and they lack peak hold, but the display unit is smaller/stackable and they can supply exposed tip probes made for air ducts.
Once I get an intercooler set up I'd like to install exposed tip thermocouples and two of these displays so I have a running comparison of temps.
You're most welcome mate!
Thanks heaps for that info, i will lookup the temptec setup, definately seems the goods!
Regarding your concern of lag, honestly mate doesnt exist! Purely a myth with our humble diesel!
After 7 TD42 GQ setups over the years and now a GU, going from crossover pipe, to stock top mount to 600x300x76mm front mount withw metres of piping- absolutely no difference in throttle response or so called lag! Even at low speed or intraffic. (I daily mine and do tonnes of kms).

Just focus on fitting the biggest core you can safely fit within your own guidelines (wanting to cut/shave or not), as Oldmav mentioned at worst theyre a big heatsink so let them have some solid surface area.

Aim to keep piping bends to a minimum. If you can weld alloy, use it as it dissipates heat well and keeps weight down. If not, mig stainless. Use mandrel bends everywhere, no silicone elbows. Add just a couple of silicone straight couplers in hot side piping, and also cold side, purely for some flex/ give. Use stainless Tbolt clamps, and weld a bead, or bead roll tge end of all piping to guarantee no hoses ever blowing off.
I can pm you some pics if you like.
Cheers,
James
 

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TD42 GQ
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Discussion Starter #236
Aim to keep piping bends to a minimum. If you can weld alloy, use it as it dissipates heat well and keeps weight down. If not, mig stainless. Use mandrel bends everywhere, no silicone elbows. Add just a couple of silicone straight couplers in hot side piping, and also cold side, purely for some flex/ give. Use stainless Tbolt clamps, and weld a bead, or bead roll tge end of all piping to guarantee no hoses ever blowing off.
I can pm you some pics if you like.
Cheers,
James
There'll be a few 90 degree bends, cooler through radiator panel, manifold adapter and also the turbo outlet.
I have a collection of alloy tubes and silicone elbows from an earlier venture which got sidelined in favour of just driving and enjoying the GQ.
My dad was a career welder and so I never learned to weld. Anything needed welding got done very competently by dear old Dad. 20/20 hindsight I need to learn now. My skill is in electronics.
For starters I plan to use silicone elbows and straight alloy pipe, the opposite of your (and general) advice. Due mainly to my limited skill set as mentioned. :(
Once the lengths and angles are sorted out, and the intercooler is demonstrating some benefit, I'll get some tube bent and welded properly using my Frankenstein assemblies as a template.
Everyone says use metal elbows, not silicone. Forgive my newbie question, but why is that? Prone to failure? reduces flow?
And for sure, please PM some pics if you have them handy, some of the clearances are a bit tight mostly between the power steering pump and the battery..
 

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There'll be a few 90 degree bends, cooler through radiator panel, manifold adapter and also the turbo outlet.
I have a collection of alloy tubes and silicone elbows from an earlier venture which got sidelined in favour of just driving and enjoying the GQ.
My dad was a career welder and so I never learned to weld. Anything needed welding got done very competently by dear old Dad. 20/20 hindsight I need to learn now. My skill is in electronics.
For starters I plan to use silicone elbows and straight alloy pipe, the opposite of your (and general) advice. Due mainly to my limited skill set as mentioned. :(
Once the lengths and angles are sorted out, and the intercooler is demonstrating some benefit, I'll get some tube bent and welded properly using my Frankenstein assemblies as a template.
Everyone says use metal elbows, not silicone. Forgive my newbie question, but why is that? Prone to failure? reduces flow?
And for sure, please PM some pics if you have them handy, some of the clearances are a bit tight mostly between the power steering pump and the battery..
Very good connection to have in the family mate!!

Will send some through when i get home tonight mate.
Silicone elbows are much more restrictive as they are effectively a 1x radius tight bend, whereas any offshelf mandrel is 2X.
Secondly, due to restricting flow its a high pressure zone and silicone gets soft and weaker with heat and flexes more so more chance of blowing off.

If you can use 540⁰ -630⁰ of total bends and youre doing well. Its doable!

Regarding PS pump, chase up the shortest belt you can, cant remeber the length off top of my head, but there are a few different lengths for our td42 PS. But every little but of extra clearance helps in this area.
 

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Hi Rick.
Regarding the water meth injection - it kept me amused for years and was alot easier to install than all the stuff I did later. I still highly recommend it!
I don't get on here much any more so no clue how to link my old thread... I'll just try a cut and paste :


You should have no trouble halving your inlet air temps with water meth injection.
 

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TD42 GQ
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Discussion Starter #239
Hi Rick.
Regarding the water meth injection - it kept me amused for years and was alot easier to install than all the stuff I did later. I still highly recommend it!
I don't get on here much any more so no clue how to link my old thread... I'll just try a cut and paste :


You should have no trouble halving your inlet air temps with water meth injection.
Thanks, yes I'm interested in experimenting with water meth injection, the cost of setting it up is a bit much for me just now though. I'll be reading through your thread soon and that might change my mind.
 

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TD42 GQ
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Discussion Starter #240
Very good connection to have in the family mate!!

Will send some through when i get home tonight mate.
Silicone elbows are much more restrictive as they are effectively a 1x radius tight bend, whereas any offshelf mandrel is 2X.
Secondly, due to restricting flow its a high pressure zone and silicone gets soft and weaker with heat and flexes more so more chance of blowing off.

If you can use 540⁰ -630⁰ of total bends and youre doing well. Its doable!

Regarding PS pump, chase up the shortest belt you can, cant remeber the length off top of my head, but there are a few different lengths for our td42 PS. But every little but of extra clearance helps in this area.
Thanks! A great summary of why to use mandrel bends instead of silicone and obvious now you've explained it.
I'd been looking at the Isuzu MU-X, it has a FMIC and long rubber hoses, now I know why it works, the hoses are very well reinforced and have large radius bends.
I'd decided to get a shorter ps belt, the existing one is actually a bit longer than it ought to be anyway.
 
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