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Do you know if you can get it engineered into a later model patrol from 07 onwards or no go because it won't meet emissions?
 

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Nissan Patrol GU4 2006 with Cummins ISDE4.5 270HP , 830 NM Engine Conversion
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Discussion Starter #262
Do you know if you can get it engineered into a later model patrol from 07 onwards or no go because it won't meet emissions?
I am not sure, it depends on each state. All i know is that someone with 2006 Patrol installed an earlier cummins ( 6bt which is coming from much earlier old truck). you will need to talk to your engineer to decide which engine to use before proceed.
 

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Discussion Starter #264 (Edited)
Change the thermos fan control from David Craig system to Tridon thermos fan switch (85on, 80 off):
Moved the switch to the front - closer to the two fans. Each fan (claimed to be at 180w), but each fan actually draw about 14A (measured) current. I Use 85/80 switch via two 40A relays . Since the switch location has some temperature "delay" when using 90/85 switch it won't be switched on till 94 degrees inside the engine. The 85/80 switch is perfect to control the temperature in the 82 to 87 range. The whole thermos fan system has been working well since the engine first installed back to Jan 2019


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Discussion Starter #265 (Edited)
Oil change update: 14,000km, 12 months. Oil still look golden colour and fresh. But I cut the filter to look inside. Cummins isde4.5 engine recommends oil change 30,000 to 35,000km. But I just change it at around 15,000km. Looks pretty good.


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Discussion Starter #266
answering some questions about the ISDE4.5 engine protection:
The ECM has built in over temperature protection at 109 degrees. If the coolant reach 109 degrees C for a period of time. The ECM will cut down the power output till the temperature is dropped below 109. So as long as you don't lose coolant. It is pretty safe. I installed the thermal fan switch 90onn 85 off on the head just beside the turbo. Then another one is located on the outlet pipe - 85 on, 80 off. I also installed a switch to be able to select which one to use. At the moment, 90 off 85 off, see the fan is turned on at 93 degrees, and off at 85. The fan is hardly turned on.
 

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Discussion Starter #267
Per request, add some video links:
the first start on 31 Jan 2019:
Ready for the first test drive on 5th March 2019:
First test driver on open road at local National Park ( 80km/h) on 5th March 2019
Testing and Tuning TCU at free way speed. @110km
 

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Discussion Starter #268
Important information: Oil capacity of ISDE4.5: The oil sump we are using is the smallest version of the Cummins ISDE4.5 series. Which hold 13 litres of oil when the engine sit flat ( in a typical truck which the engine is designed for). In our application, we have to align the engine with the transmission angle to have smooth transmission operation ( less vibration and wear). I talked to Cummins engineer few times about the oil capacity when the time I was doing the conversion, and was told try NOT to modify the capacity of the oil sump. Even with the original sump, my engine currently holds only 10.2 litres oil. If you are towing a caravan in a hot summer day, you will need plenty of oil to lubricate and cool down internal parts. Remember the earlier ZD30 fail due to lack of oil capacity? then Nissan changed the oil stick and added more oil into the engine. Same theory for the Cummins 4.5. You would get away with less oil, but as soon as you drive it hard, the engine will have overheated oil which become very thin.....off course, the life of the oil is also in question

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Discussion Starter #269 (Edited)
Update: radiator replacement: factory radiator has developed a minor leaking ( looks like the stone damage on the front), it has been in the patrol for 14 years. So decide to replace it with a full aluminium unit which increases that total coolant volume from previous about 10 litres? ( anyhow, I was able to fill in about 10 litres before) to about 14.5 litres ( this is the total volume of coolant with water I could fill in the system, so it is about 4.5 litres coolant capacity increase). Instead of buying a fan shroud, I have made one. Bought a 3mm thick aluminium sheet ( $26), and cut two holes. there are 32mm gap between the fans and the radiator fins to allow enough air flow . The shroud and the radiator is sealed very well with pre applied silicon along the edge of the shroud resulting no air leaking around the edges between the radiator and the shroud. See the attached photos. The two Italian made high performance Spal thermofans are used ( about 2040CFM and draw 20A each fan @13v). I have set the fan switch to turn on at 90, off at 85. In the real world, it will turn on the fans at 93 degrees. Wow, the setup is so powerful. it cools down the coolant rapidly!!! It is cooling so much faster than the previous setup! In normal driving condition the fan won't be turned on. But once it is on. The two powerful ran can cool down the coolant in less than few minutes. I have never seen such fast cooling speed before.


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Discussion Starter #270
about the aluminium radiator could crake at the bottom concern: I have re-enforced on the bottom supports which will address such issue. All the aluminium radiators ( including pwr) have weakest point at the bottom. It will crack 100% in off road use if not re-enforced. there is no way the two pin areas are strong enough to support such heavy unit. I will show some photos later.
 

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Discussion Starter #271
Also, don't connect an earth wire to the radiator. As it would create the loop to allow current flow

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Discussion Starter #272
Per some requests, here are some photos of the front engine mounts. There are total 4 factory ZD30 mounts are used. The factory mount is good for absorb vibration. Due to the the 4.5 is much heavier than the zd30 and the the amount torque it produces is almost doubled, 4 zd30 mounts are necessary. Two centre mounts are using existing factory brackets of the chassis rail. This setup proves to be very effective. No vibration inside the cabin. And the 4 mounts are holding on very well.


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Discussion Starter #273
Answer questions: about cable used for the fan. Each fan has 8 AWG cable connected all the way to the relay. there is NO plug. All connection ( except at the relay end) are soldered join to ensure worry free operation in the long run. 2 x 8 AWG wire from the battery with double midi fuse holder , 40A fuse for each wire. then 2 x 8 AWG wires to each fan. Is it 8 AWG for each fan overkill? who cares. Only extra $15 to have the fans operating at the full voltage. Tried thinner wire, there are voltage drop across....
 
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about the aluminium radiator could crake at the bottom concern: I have re-enforced on the bottom supports which will address such issue. All the aluminium radiators ( including pwr) have weakest point at the bottom. It will crack 100% in off road use if not re-enforced. there is no way the two pin areas are strong enough to support such heavy unit. I will show some photos later.
What brand of radiator have you used, and what did you do to re-enforce it???
 

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Discussion Starter #275
Mine is an eBay unit. The two Spal fans cost more than double of my radiator. But I looked around , I don't see any of of the aluminium radiators including those Australia made ones are in good design to handle a 4wd rough road. They all have the same type of structure. So the two legs areas will get pushed too hard under the weight . The re- enforcement is the only way to make those aluminium radiators work safely in our 4wd. I am traveling mow. Once I get home, I will shot some photos......

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Mine is an eBay unit. The two Spal fans cost more than double of my radiator. But I looked around , I don't see any of of the aluminium radiators including those Australia made ones are in good design to handle a 4wd rough road. They all have the same type of structure. So the two legs areas will get pushed too hard under the weight . The re- enforcement is the only way to make those aluminium radiators work safely in our 4wd. I am traveling mow. Once I get home, I will shot some photos......

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Thanks for the tip, I'm running a 3 core ally e-bay special too.
Just went and had a look and yes, 1 of the legs has already been pushed/denting the lower tank,
I'll have to pull it out and get it reinforced, cheers.
 

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Righto, ta. I am in the process of fitting an ally unit myself. But it is not an ebay special, it is an Adrad unit, and uses construction methods similar to what they use for their industrial radiators. The materials are the same size as they use in truck units. This is to allow for the conditions faced by a 4wd.

But at $1,450, it would want to be better than one costing $400.
 

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Discussion Starter #278
how long do you have it? have you done any off road with this radiator?
 

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Discussion Starter #279
Righto, ta. I am in the process of fitting an ally unit myself. But it is not an ebay special, it is an Adrad unit, and uses construction methods similar to what they use for their industrial radiators. The materials are the same size as they use in truck units. This is to allow for the conditions faced by a 4wd.

But at $1,450, it would want to be better than one costing $400.
I did look at those expensive unit. but they look the same which make me worry. the two leg areas are the weakest point, unless they have some re-enforcement inside ( i had a thought about that, but would that block the coolant flow - i mean if there is anything inside to support the weight.....) otherwise, it wont be strong enough to support the total weight: The radiator itself is already heavy, with two Spal fans , shroud, and fill in the coolant......you only need few hard landing to break the leg areas.
 

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how long do you have it? have you done any off road with this radiator?
I put it in today. I am only a tourer, so no serious bush bashing just fishing and camping etc.

Adrad man told me that it is what you can't see that sets them apart, such as material thickness, and how they do certain things with the construction. Like most big companies they have a process of development to improve things, such as how the cores are put together etc.
 
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