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Nissan Patrol GU4 2006 with Cummins ISDE4.5 270HP , 830 NM Engine Conversion
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Discussion Starter #281
I put it in today. I am only a tourer, so no serious bush bashing just fishing and camping etc.

Adrad man told me that it is what you can't see that sets them apart, such as material thickness, and how they do certain things with the construction. Like most big companies they have a process of development to improve things, such as how the cores are put together etc.
I looked around at the time, but found there was no one ( local companies) doing a radiator for the auto. I think they may have put re-enforcement inside the bottom tank where the trans cooler should be for the auto version. If not, just add on thicker plate on the bottom wont help much. especially if I add on the spal fan which is much heavier than those cheap ebay fans. I am not doing serious 4wd either. just need to prepared in case drive in such environment. cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #282 (Edited)
I have received lots enquiries about the radiator re enforcement. Finally ,I am home and be able to share some of the ideas and photos: stage one to add rubber support to the following locations. To minimise the load on the two legs. There are total 6 rubber footing added, but they are all on the front side of the radiator.


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Discussion Starter #283 (Edited)
Now come with the stage 2. A real support method to protecting the radiator won't get damaged in the worst driving conditions. First, make 4 aluminium plates, see the first photo. And glue two of them together to make two pairs. Then glue them on the bottom of the radiator. These plates are used to make the bottom part support as they can distribute the weight more evenly. ( I could use steel plate, but I feel those aluminium are strong enough). Bonded with the radiator, they are 6 mm thick for the support area on each side. 2nd, make the support bar as the pictures showing. The two rubber footing are 35mm in height. Don't put silicon on the very top one ( to allow potential movement and easy removing of the radiator). Step 3, install this support bar on the bottom and make sure that two footing gently ( a little big force) touch the bottom of the pre-made support plate. All done! Now answering some questions before they get asked: 1) the support bar is mounted on the chassis instead of the body of the car, how about the movement ( horizontal, or vertical )? Answer: this was the first scenario I asked myself before proceed with this project. To make sure it works, I did some real scenario test to find out the potential movement. Using a camera mounted on the bottom of the car and did all kind of test.......: the results: there are very minor movement - may be less than 1.5mm max in vertical when doing big jump, and very minor movement in horizontal. When driving on corrugation road, the movement is very minor. With this in mind, I decided to use only two support footing on the bottom of the radiator. ( I was thinking about to use solid rubber block, but changed the idea, as the rubber block are solid and hard) . At the same time, on top of the radiator, using a rubber piece and the bracket is tight but still has about 4mm vertical movement allowance. . The two rubber footing are from the used shock absorbers. They are pretty strong, but also allow compression when being pushed. There are two screw inside the hole of each footing to secure them from moving. 2) Size of the materials: The two support plate are measured 61mm x 110mm x4mm thick ( two glued together using silicon and folded on each side to add more strength) each. The support bar is a steel bar normally used for support windows in a brick house. It is 10mm thick and very strong. after the installation, I have done quiet some off road test. so far there is zero sign of damage. I am pretty happy and very confidence about this setup . I believe it will last as long as a factory radiator unit.


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Discussion Starter #284
By the way, this radiator is so cool. it will cool down from 93 degrees ( fan is on) to 77 in less than a minute. Yes! less than 60 seconds in today's weather condition - 27 degrees ( fan is supposed off at 85 degrees, but the thermo switch is mounted on the top of the head where the temperature is 85 degrees even the coolant sensor reading is 77 which is the thermostat close temperature. It fully open temperature is 87 degrees.). And the fan may not turned on at all for long time, like an hour drive no stopping and coolant temperature maintained at around 82 to 83 degrees. Looks like I may need to change to a higher temperature thermostat if I wish to push the coolant temperature a bit higher during normal operation condition - say maintain at 87 degrees.
 

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This is today, the nearly finished Cummins Commrail 4.5 with 270hp and 800nm top rpm are 3700


Tt is a 100% DIY from myself, not a mechanic, but thanks for lots of help and ideas from Patrol4x4! Really appreciated!

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where did you buy the 4.5 cummins?
 

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Discussion Starter #286
I got it from Cummins China factory .I also sell it if you are interested....


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Discussion Starter #287
Latest engine bay photo: I have connected the cylinder head air vent hose. Note, all Cummins engines have such a small vent on the top of the cylinder head. Before I simply drilled 2 small holes on the thermostat to let the air coming out. But as the new radiator installed, the massive cooling power together with the small holes at the thermostat make the engine temperature staying at bit too low at 78 to 82. So I re-installed the original thermostat (no hole drilled). Now the temperature remains normal at 83 to 86.


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