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Discussion Starter · #301 · (Edited)
Installed NTC Thermistor Control device. In room temperature, it measured 2.0 ohm. So the start current in room temperature is pretty low ( at about 6A start current). I can hear that the fan starting gradually. In less than few second, the fan's speed increased , and once NTC is fully heat up in less than 30 second, the resistance measured about 0.02 ohm at full operating temperature which is about 200 degrees or a bit higher ( the 0.02 ohm causes voltage drop about 0.4v. There are still 13V loaded on the fan. So the fan's operation is not really affected) Since I installed NTC in the engine bay, once the engine bay reaches normal operating temperature say at around 70 degrees. at 70 degrees the resistor dropped from 2.0 to 1.5 ohm which is still big enough to protect the inrush current effectively ( 8.5A start @70 degrees). Those NTC's operating temperature can be at high at 200 degrees at the fan's full load -21A. So I wont cover them. The NTC will greatly increase the service life of the relay. I will give it more test once in the field.
 

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Discussion Starter · #302 ·
NTC update: had 2 trips today, here for the NTC: once it turned on and at the operating temperature, the measured current for each fan is about 21.5A and 21.7A respectively. at the same time, the NTC temperature is around 202 degrees. When the fan is not on, but the whole engine bay is at full operating temperature. The NTC's resistance reading is 1.35 ohm which will have a start current at around 10A or a bit less. I am very happy with the result.
 

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Discussion Starter · #303 ·
To reduce intake air temperature: I had seen the intake air temperature between 45 to 55 degrees in the past. I have found out that once the engine bay is at the full operating temperature in a hot day. Those pipes were also heated up and stay hot....once these happens even with very low boost the intake temperature reading is close to 55 degrees.......I had since installed heat isolation around the pipe which is now isolated from the heat wave from the radiator. What a difference, the intake temperature is about 4 to 5 degrees lower. Reading between 43 to 50 degrees most of the time.


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Discussion Starter · #304 ·
For a piece of mind, today I have installed the engine saver. Very easy to install. I add an extra earth wire on the probe housing to allow any current go directly to the earth rather than from other part of the engine. ( it is very safe if you don't attached such earth simply just use engine body as earth return), For those who wish to keep your car for the long run. it is a good idea to install such device.
 

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Discussion Starter · #305 ·
the location where I install the probe is the highest position of the cooling system. The model I used is ESS12. Since I have my own alloy hosing which allow me to add on an earth wire. but Engine Saver also sale a kit with 35mm hosing which allow you to join the hose on each side. Either way, it is very simply to install.
 
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Discussion Starter · #306 ·
Answering some questions about this engine:
Many people are confused this ISDE4.5 to other diesels. See the attached dyno picture. at 1500rpm, the torque is 800nm @1500rpm and this is with 72% TPs only! The sweet cruising rpm is 1550 at 100k/ h, at this 1550rpm, the engine runs very smoothly and with the best fuel economy. And sweet rpm range is between 1500 to 1900. When the Engine RPM is above 1900, it start to lose fuel economy. The torque between 1500 to 1900 is pretty flat, and the top power is archived at 2700rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #307 · (Edited)
Answering some question about the RE4 transmission behind the ISDE4.5: I think many people overlooked one simple factor when comparing RE4 behind a powerful V8 petrol vs ISDE4.5 - the line pressure vs RPM. Take a look my engine dyno result at the attached. From as low as 700 RPM and below, it produces 400nm! What is the line pressure at this RPM? So my RE4 is still good after 30,000km, I believe 3 important factors: 1) My factory ZD30 TC's high stall RPM value ,that RE4 always has top line pressure before pulling ahead, 2) I have the TC unlock threshold set at 70% , in this case, the TC acted as a protection buffer 3) Good cooling. Off course, don't try too hard when towing a caravan. If am not a mechanic or a pro, people who knows better, please share your idea......Doing an engine conversion, is a learning process, at the end of day. We all become knowledgeable.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #308 ·
I have lots of enquires about this engine. In fact, I import this engine. And have already sold some to our Australia customers. If you are interested, please drop me a message.
 

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Discussion Starter · #309 · (Edited)
Interesting thing about the RE4: From the day 1 when the Cummins 4.5 installed, I was told that the transmission may be lucky enough to last for 5,000km...and I was preparing for one day the RE4 may fail. Two years past, it has done 30,000km, mainly towing caravan, and some off road, beaches, and sometimes I do drive hard..... the RE4 is still holding well. However, it is a mystery to me. Since there is no official spec for this transmission, even those people who built RE4for racing don't want to give me a written guarantee like how much torque it is can handle before being destroyed, and my RE4 is not a special built one. It is just factory unit with an upgrade valve body and custom TCU. I have increased the TC unlock value from the initial 50% to the current 70%..what a feeling! At 70% when not towing, I can cruise with engine running at around 1685 rpm at 110k/h on freeway from Sydney to Newcastle all the way without need to change down a gear on some of the long incline section- Always with overdrive on. . Since the 70% TC lock, even my wife notice the car is different than before. "Why our car does not change down a gear on the freeway? "..."how do you know that?, " I asked her....." I don't hear that engine sound change"...........70% TC lock, may be the last valve I have the gut to try. Or it may be destroyed in a matter of seconds if anything higher......so I understand why some people want a manual....

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I agree that it's the weak point on the tranny and a 70% TPS unlock threshold could only be a good thing.

How plug and play are compushifts?
 

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This is one of the best engine conversion threads I have ever read. Well done!

After 25 years of a GQ, two GU's and presently a Y62, I now want to build a 4.5L GU 😁😍

So I called the local (Sydney) Cummins engine conversion company and have to say that the drive in/out prices quoted were quite a slap of reality 😲😱😭😭

It is hard to justify buying and then spending the same on a converted GU as a Y62 costs brand new, but I really am much more comfortable with a GU then a Y62 for building into the kind of 4by that we want for the kinds of places we are planning to take it.

Decisions, decisions 😜🤪
 

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Discussion Starter · #312 ·
I agree that it's the weak point on the tranny and a 70% TPS unlock threshold could only be a good thing.

How plug and play are compushifts?
I did not use compushifts TCU, I use shiftkit.com.au's TCU, and I play around with it, and under the support of the supplier, total have had 9 versions of the setting. The current one is pretty good. If anyone is using this TCU, let me know, So I can just sent you the setting file of My RE4.
 
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Discussion Starter · #313 · (Edited)
This is one of the best engine conversion threads I have ever read. Well done!

After 25 years of a GQ, two GU's and presently a Y62, I now want to build a 4.5L GU 😁😍

So I called the local (Sydney) Cummins engine conversion company and have to say that the drive in/out prices quoted were quite a slap of reality 😲😱😭😭

It is hard to justify buying and then spending the same on a converted GU as a Y62 costs brand new, but I really am much more comfortable with a GU then a Y62 for building into the kind of 4by that we want for the kinds of places we are planning to take it.

Decisions, decisions 😜🤪
I have supplied THE TOP QUALITY BUILT RTI ( ready to install) ISDE4.5 to our local customers. Why not you get engine from me, then get the conversion down at the wild4x4 located at the Newcastle? Wild4x4 is doing excellent job for Cummins conversion.
Or, if you DIY, it will cost much less, especially if yours a manual, properly git it done under $23k plus engineering. If you can do the welding, it will cost much less.
 

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I have supplied THE TOP QUALITY BUILT RTI ( ready to install) ISDE4.5 to our local customers. Why not you get engine from me, then get the conversion down at the wild4x4 located at the Newcastle? Wild4x4 is doing excellent job for Cummins conversion.
Or, if you DIY, it will cost much less, especially if yours a manual, properly git it done under $23k plus engineering. If you can do the welding, it will cost much less.
Hi mate. Have you had others use Wild 4x4 to do the conversion? Wondering what they are like.

Cheers,
Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #315 · (Edited)
Wild4x4 is the first company did Cummins 6bt conversion in NSW. And they are also doing the big Cummins 6.7 with Alison 1000 transmission for the Patrol. They are doing much better quality job.
You can contact them direct for more info. In NSW for drive in/out, I believe they are the best. Anyway, asking around and make your own decision. For the engine conversion, once it is started, there is NO way back. People who are doing the conversion, normally wish to keep their car for long time. The best supply of the quality engine, and good workmanship is very important. I myself is not a pro, not a mechanic, but I used to be a research engineer and scientist. And I like to pay attention to details. I did shop around in the beginning , but decided to proceed the project as a DIY. Now I know this engine inside and out. I have the best supplier / technical team to provide top quality built 4.5.
here are some links, you may want to ask some questions, and listen other's opinion:
 

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Discussion Starter · #316 · (Edited)
heat insulation upgrade: finally a good product ( expensive) really helped : This is the real staff! and it works as it says. Those cheap wrap wont work. Once heat socked, the cheap staff will be heat up and stay hot. This expensive insulation material I used today, truly helps to reduce the heat. The cable ties used are stainless steel. not plastic. there are two old layers wrap beneath this current installation. I did not remove them. I make the new insulation not that tight, there are gaps between the layers. more gap more effective The out layer is kind of thin aluminium which can hold it in the shape, it is about 6mm thick.
 

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I did not use compushifts TCU, I use shiftkit.com.au's TCU, and I play around with it, and under the support of the supplier, total have had 9 versions of the setting. The current one is pretty good. If anyone is using this TCU, let me know, So I can just sent you the setting file of My RE4.
So you have stage 2 valve body upgrade, custom torque converter as well as this programmable TCU?

What's programming the TCU like? Do they have a baseline setting to work from?
 

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Discussion Starter · #318 ·
So you have stage 2 valve body upgrade, custom torque converter as well as this programmable TCU?

What's programming the TCU like? Do they have a baseline setting to work from?
Not stage 2. I have stage 3 heavy duty valve body, plus programable TCU. for this application, I was told if in standard factory setup even with stage 2 valve body and factory TCU, the RE4 may not last more than 5,000km. The stage 3 HD body make the shift a big harsh ( which is said not for daily drive in the website) , but you get used to it. It provide maximum protection. And it is not that harsh at all. The convertor is a factory ZD30 standard.
Those low stall TC wont be real low stall behind Cummins 4.5 if you want TC lock function. without the locking , the engine will be 200rpm higher than locked TC. Which is not good for both fuel economy and driving experience. Without towing, I can have the TC locked more the time on the hwy. One day, I may upgrade a true low stall unit. I heard some people are doing development for that.
 
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Discussion Starter · #319 · (Edited)
Test high power for both RE4 and the new insulation :
Today, in order to test the new insulation system, I did a very aggressive tyre spin test: Put the foot on the accelerator pedal , The TC stalled at the 3250 rpm, and the car just like a rocket. I realized that the RE4 can handle this kind of power with easy: at 3300rpm, my ISDE 4.5 peaked its power 270hp (198kw), the torque dropped to only 574NM (from the peak 830nm at between 1500 to 1900rpm) which is very safe for the RE4 to handle. It is really fun to drive, especially good for overtaking. Off course, use lots more fuel at this rpm level. At least, I feel confidence about the RE4 now. Looks like drive it harder at higher RPM is safer for the RE4 than drive it ( especially locked ) at the lower RPM. The insulation system works very well too! After such a big test, I can still hold my hand on the exhaust ( after turbo section)! The test is also explain those built RE4 can handle those high powered 4wd racing.....only HP, not big torque, especially those big V8 petrol engines. And at high RPM, the transmission always has maximum line pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #320 ·
some people asking me if I have done a dyno with the RE4 yet? My answer is no. I dont want to break it. My Re4 is stock + upgraded valve body. The TC is also zd30 stock, no way to be sure it wont be damaged. Looking for true RE4 TC low stall solutions in the near future
 
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