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Discussion Starter · #341 ·
I have few people asking questions about some display setup and the CAN bus display function. Here are some key info: the CAN Bus read info from the ECM and display 5 items: 1st line, Engine RPM, Boost pressure ( PSI), 2nd line: Coolant temperature, 3rd line: oil pressure, 4th Line: After intercooler intake air temperature/ toggle with any err code. It also give warning, for example, if the temperature is too high at 130 degrees, it will flash that display, after 3 mins, if the temperature is not dropping below 130, the ECM will drop the power level. Note, for the oil pressure ( if you are not using my CAN bus display), you can join your pressure sensor tube on the passenger side. Cummins does not allow any oil pressure testing tube to be installed on the turbo side due to high fire danger. The oil take much longer time to warm up compared to the coolant, and the oil temperature is normally about 3 to 5 degrees higher than the coolant temperature when the engine is fully warmed up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #342 ·
Interesting conversation : on the way home at a traffic light. a landcruiser 70 series (LC70) stopped beside my car: LC70:' hi mate, is it a Cummins?' Me: Yes, LC70: ' a 6bt 12v ?' me: no, a Ccmmonrail 4.5, LC70:' it sounds good, and you are driving fast ', me: not really, my engine drive fast. .........this is the 3rd time I have been approached by LandCruiser drivers and asked about the Cummins Patrol. The last two times was in WA when we were holidays there.
 
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Discussion Starter · #343 ·
to check if your engine has healthy Oil pressure ( Nulon full synthetic 10w 40 heavy duty diesel engine oil) : 1)At fully warmed up with coolant at 85 degrees, and engine oil temperature at 85 to 90 degrees idle 750RPM: 24 PSI. 2) first cold start @24 degrees ( like today): 68 to 69 PSI 3) Winter time Sydney, @8-10 degrees: 1st start about 72 psi. 4) Cruise at 100k/h @1630RPM, 61 PSI ( FULLY OPEARTING TEMPERATURE). Note, it will take about 3 seconds to reach oil pressure at 1st cold start. If you dont have the 'correct' oil pressure at the cold start, then it could be something wrong with your engine ( provide you have the right oil). If the cold start pressure is OK, but at operating temperature the temperature is NOT OK, then you many want to change the oil.
 
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Discussion Starter · #344 ·
I noticed, only after you have been driving in a hot day for long time, then the oil will eventually reaches the operating temperature which is normally 3 to 5 degrees above the coolant temperature. However, if only driving in local traffic and not much power being used, the oil temperature can be slightly lower than the coolant temperature, in this case, the idle oil pressure may be close to 30 psi.
 
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Discussion Starter · #345 ·
The default 4.5 setup has an oil pressure switch. But for me, I use an oil pressure sensor. If change to sensor and use the CAN bus display supplied from my engine package, then the display will show accurate oil pressure reading. However, if your 4.5 has switch, you can always add on your own pressure sensor. Cummins does not allow to use any oil pressure hose on the exhaust side due to high fire danger. You can use another location in the intake side just behind / above the central engine mount. This is also used as factory test point. Its pressure reading is more accurate. See the photo attached.
For those of you who may need a to quality built 4.5 for your conversion, please PM me for more details. Also, you can view some other 4.5 discussion on facebook ( I use my real name on facebook: Spring WENG)
 

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Discussion Starter · #346 ·
Finally, the my low stall (no lockup) torque converter from Austra has arrived. It is a 4l80e based for RE4. So the oil pump end is zd30 type which engage with the oil pump inside the RE4. I have a spare RE4 transmission ( which just arrived last week from one of my friends) that allow me to play with before everything is correct and then I will do the TC swapping. I had designed my own new 4l80e based flexplate purely based on calculation from previous ZD30's flexplate ( also desinged by myself) design data. and had it made by Magnum performance. Today, I have tried to put both TC and flexplate in my spare RE4, just to be sure all the measurement are correct before I can go ahead to swap the TC in my RE4. I still wail the centre spacer to arrive in about 3 weeks or more. So today, only to test if my calculations are correct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #347 ·
here are some details of the oil pump and TC engagement, plus gears engagement measurement. I believe it will help who ever want to make your own DIY parts. The 1st photo is for the oil pump engagement. The 2nd and 3rd photos are for the gear set engagement: see the attached pictures. If B1-B= 137-114=23mm A1-A=97-71=26mm. If remove TC 3mm clearance, then the above result will be 20mm and 23mm. Question: the small shaft only engage 20mm, will it be able to handle 830nm? It is the similar size of Nissan's 5 speed manual box's 5th gear? But this one in the auto will be used throughout the gears. Right from the 1st to 4th. FYI, my current ZD30 factory TC has been working fine behind the Cummins for nearly 3 years, 55,000km. However, it is not a low stall TC which and the TC will unlock at 75% of TPS. This means the engine is never be able to transfer the full torque passed on to the RE4. Now with this TRUE low stall TC, the amount of the torque will be loaded onto the transmission......
Stay tuned. Once the final part ( centre spacer) has arrived, I will start the swap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #348 ·
update, just checked my spare RE4. There are light wearing mark on the input shaft ( small shaft), it is about 20mm. So the overlap between the input shaft and the TC is only 20mm in standard factory setup. I will update once the last part has arrived in about few weeks from now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #349 ·
Finally, I started the TC replacement. Took me one and half day to remove all parts around the RE4. Then today finally to get the RE4 removed from the engine. Not hard with good tools.i had spent some time to double check the new TC and flexplate, and spacer before starting remove the RE4. Before removing the RE4, I test fit new flexplate and TC on my spare RE4.
Good progress today
 

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Discussion Starter · #350 ·
Have to drill new hole on the adaptor plate for the new flexplate mounting bolts access. Not too hard with good tools and equipment. Tomorrow will start reinstall things back. New TC (black) is bigger in diameter compared to the factory unit. I designed both flexplate and the spacer. So I was a bit worries in case my calculations were not right. But today I see everything is in the right spot. tomorrow will start to put everything back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #351 ·
Note, Cummins does not recommend to use spacer between the fly wheel/ flexplate and the crank. If you must use a spacer between the fly wheel and the crank, then 2 friction sheets need to be used. Otherwise, there might be damage to the bolts in very high torque application. So I have the flexplate directly sit on the crank and I put the spacer between the flexplate and the TC act a pilot bushing
 
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Discussion Starter · #352 ·
A big day! RE4 installed!


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Discussion Starter · #353 ·
This is the new flexplate


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Discussion Starter · #354 ·
Low stall TC in place


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Discussion Starter · #355 ·
Tighten the last bolt for the flexplate. With the transmission in the car. Tomorrow will install smaller items.


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Discussion Starter · #356 ·
Job done! Total 4 and half days work. Test drive with new low stall TC, huge improvement over the factory ZD30 TC. Smooth and powerful! Now I can really enjoy the power and torque of the Cummins. I have changed the setting to switch off the lockup. Tomorrow and Sunday we will have a short trip to do more test!

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Interested to see how this performs! How is the cost so far compared to a built 4l80e conversion?
You might have a new customer soon ;)
I have currently completed passenger side battery relocation, hydro brake conversion, front mount cooler, just waiting for the ZD30 to go bang (probably wont now).
Not sure if I keep the RE4 yet, but your results could be promising.
 

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Discussion Starter · #358 · (Edited)
the weekend south coast trip report:
1) With the new super low stall TC in place, the car has been doing exceptional well on the freeway. There is nothing called a hill. At 110km/h cruising , the engine is a bit busier (1870 rpm) than before ( with the TC lock, it was 1690rpm). Without the TC lock, however, I can use full power all the time if I want to. On the way back, the big ( about 4km) continues uphill section near Wollongong , I can effortlessly maintain the speed up the long big hill and easily overtake any car in front of me ( by the way, I am a fast driver). At 100k/h, the engine running at around 1770rpm vs previously with TC lock's 1560 rpm. I dont feel much differences in terms of noise level etc at that speed. Since at 1900rpm, the engine is very quiet and smooth, and still at the top torque ( see the chart attached). Overall, I must say that this new TC is fully matched Cummins engine's output band for both the power torque. It makes drive the car, a fun and pleasure. Smooth as silk, yet power full as rocket! The ATF temperature is quiet good between 65 to 82 during the whole day trip. Normally it would sit at 55 degrees when the TC locked in the past. This TC does not have a lockup, so the temperature is a bit higher on free way cruising : at 70 degrees (outlet), return 65 degrees . So I believe the inside Temperature sensor is around 68 degrees. During the continues big long hill section, the ATF outlet 82 degrees, return 68 degrees. internal average should be 75 degrees.
2) Fuel usage (mainly on the high way): about 11.7litres/ 100 vs before 10.5 litre /100km for the similar section of the road. Off course, there are other factors affect the fuel economy. But I am very happy about this figure. In fact, I believe in the city driving, it may safe some fuel due to the effectiveness of the low stall TC.
3) Do I bother to have a same low stall TC with lock up clutches pack? I did want a true low stall TC with the lockup function before, but after driving this one, I think I am very happy with this TC without a lockup: a) it saves $, a same low stall with triple lockup clutch pack cost more than double. b) it keeps the conversion simple: I do not need to upgrade RE4 bellhousing or add spacer and also change /modify xmember, or engine mount location. c) All of these add up, it save heaps more.
4) I believe this setup makes the car drive's similar as a 4l80e/ Cummins combination. So the last question: how long will the RE4 last? Back to 3 years ago: I was told my RE4 may not last for more than 5,000km behind the powerfull Cummins when my conversion just finished. Now the RE4 has done about 58,000km mainly towing behind Cummins. It never missed a bit. Hopefully the same story continues with this wonderful new TC in place. only time will tell. Next drop pan service will be in about 15,000km, by then I will be able to see how the whole RE4 handle's power under this new TC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #359 ·
Some Key info for RE4 setup:
1) Heavy duty stage 3 valve body supplied by Keas Group ( similar like full manualized body in terms of max line pressure, but with Auto Shift and lock up function, harsh shift but you will soon get used to it)
2) Shiftkit.com.au TCU - allow to programming and setup details for shift points, individual line pressure, lockup etc)
3) Super Low stall TC for Cummins - 4l80e based, supplied by Austra Torque Engineering: Austra Torque Engineering set back clearance : 1/8 or 3 mm front Pilot bush clearance : 3mm
4) Custom 4mm Flexplate : Designed by myself and made by Magna performance in Vic
5) Custom pilot bushing adaptor ( engages both crank and TC, so it is not a spacer): designed by myself, make by others. No spacer is used for this setup.
6) My RE4, Nissan factory transmission without any mod ( except the valve body and custom TCU) started new life behind Cummins 4.5 at 145,000km, now nearly 200,000km
 

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I think that your performance valve body with higher pressure would be helping the life of the trans quite a bit.

It will be interesting to see how your trans temps are when towing without the option to manually lock the TC to bring them down a bit.
 
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