[Doc]

No, it can't. If the data communication wires aren't there, it goes into limp.
The TB45E auto ECU was designed to retard the ignition at each up shift so it's seen as a fault if it can't communicate.

To the best of my knowledge, there is no auto ECU/TCU combo for the TD42Ti.
You can use the TCU from a TB42 or TD42.

Thanks mate. I figured it was a data link(ie unable to replicate inputs or trick the TCU into thinking there's a ECU connected)

I guess I'm just looking for a TCU that doesn't require an ECU. TB42 and TD42 the only options? What about TB42e?

Cheers,
Doc

 

[JFF45]

I don't see why you couldn't install a TB45E ECU under the dash somewhere and only wire up the required connections to a TB45E TCU. It won't interfere with the TD42Ti ECU functionality.

I left my ECU/TCU combo in place with my TD42T conversion and it runs Ecutalk and the auto trans diagnostics.

 

[Doc]

I've read your build thread, awesome work by the way and the info is much appreciated.

I'd prefer to keep things as simple as possible but the TB45 ECU/TCU combo is an option.

I haven't purchased anything yet, just putting together a shopping list of what I need to get. Looks like I need to mix and match parts from different models either way.

 

[JFF45]

Thank you, so you would have seen the trans diagnostic pic I posted that shows that the trans data can be read through the ECU..

 

[mytqik]

Hi JFF45/Doc/Snatchy,

Sorry for not posting sooner, I have been super busy and haven't spent much time on here recently.

Snatchy you are 100% correct, it is def +5V for the TPS.

I know John has been running the TB45 ECU/TCU combo with no dramas, and being all factory Nissan parts is a super reliable option.

I was not so happy with the shift points of the TB45 TCU, so I have since changed my TCU with an aftermarket unit, that allows for shift points to changed to suit the torque/rev range of the TD42.

I have since become a re-seller of these TCU's, PM me if you want any further details. I don't want to upset the mods on here by advertising incorrectly.

 

[Killer_miller]

Hi mate, are you able to post pics of you cruiser control cable and brackets ect. To see how you rigged it up?

 

[JFF45]

I don’t know if @mytqik connected his cruise control but there are pics showing how I did mine in my conversion thread.

 

[AussieMav91]

Sorry to revive an old thread. Im currently doing the auto swap myself. I got lucky and found a factory GQ TD42 Auto 12v TCU, and snagged the complete wiring harness from a TB auto to make a factory harness for the car. My only question is, as therr is np TD Auto wiring diagram, Ive got every single wire hooked up, but the single wire for TCU input speed, which was originally a Yel/blk wire on to the TB coil ground for engine rpm, the TD runs the AC to tacho. Will factory Diesel TCU understand that or do I need to do something else with it? Ive seen various threads talking about this french diagram but cant find it myself.

Thanks

 

[mytqik]

Hi, no dramas about reviving an old thread, glad all my efforts those years ago is still proving to be useful!
I have a copy of the French wiring diagram if you want a copy?

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

 

[Mjerksen]

Throttle Position Sensor:
Since both my GU and my donor GQ where auto's I was lucky enough to have the TPS on the fuel pump.
Matt at UFI did a great job of pulling the TPS off my 10mm pump and grafting it onto my DC3 11mm pump.

There are 2x 3 pin plugs on the TB45, one for the throttle position sensor and one for throttle position sensor and one for throttle position switch. On the TD42 this is combined into 1x 6pin plug.
(I had to find a French copy of the GQ manual before I could find a wiring diagram for a TD42 auto!!)

Throttle Position Switch:
TB45..................Function..........TD42
Green/Orange.....12V power.......Green/Red
White/Green........Full Throttle....Green/Black
Black..................Idle................Light Green

Throttle Position Sensor
Orange...............12V power.......Yellow
White..................Position..........Yellow/Red
Black..................Earth..............Yellow/Blue

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread guys but I'm doing this conversion and need a bit of help.

I'm doing a TB45 auto to TD42 conversion and keeping the auto and running it with the ECU and TCM. The TD engine is a silvertop from a manual that had been turboed but still had the factory 10mm pump on it. When I had the injector pump reconditioned and upgraded through JPC in Melbourne I got them to put a throttle position sensor on it, yet it's only a single 3 pin plug, where as the TB45 TPS plugs have two 3 pin plugs.
Anyone know how to get them to connect and talk properly so the car will shift?


Cheers guys, Mark.

 

[AussieMav91]

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread guys but I'm doing this conversion and need a bit of help.

I'm doing a TB45 auto to TD42 conversion and keeping the auto and running it with the ECU and TCM. The TD engine is a silvertop from a manual that had been turboed but still had the factory 10mm pump on it. When I had the injector pump reconditioned and upgraded through JPC in Melbourne I got them to put a throttle position sensor on it, yet it's only a single 3 pin plug, where as the TB45 TPS plugs have two 3 pin plugs.
Anyone know how to get them to connect and talk properly so the car will shift?


Cheers guys, Mark.

Hi Mark. I ordered a 6pin TPS from Japan when I did my conversion. It was only $150 or so for the genuine unit. I got mine from the UD trucks as we have an account, but my Diesel Fuel Pump shop identified it too but at like 500 bucks for the same number.

Cheers

 

[Mjerksen]

Hi Mark. I ordered a 6pin TPS from Japan when I did my conversion. It was only $150 or so for the genuine unit. I got mine from the UD trucks as we have an account, but my Diesel Fuel Pump shop identified it too but at like 500 bucks for the same number.

Cheers

Ah thanks for that mate.

Will that work with a 12v system? From looking online a lot of the GQ's with that TPS were 24v.

Thanks again mate. Looks like I might have to order from Japan and wait haha.

Cheers, Mark.

 

[JFF45]

You have 2 other options. I use the 3 wire TPS on the pump and use the other 3 wires that are on the ZD30 TPS that I initially installed when I did the conversion.
The ZD30 TPS was only $50 but you need to weld a bracket for the throttle cable. There are pics in my conversion thread.
The other option is to use the 3 wire TPS on the pump and use a couple of micro switches for the idle/WOT signals that the missing 3 wires would normally do.
Depends how handy you are and your understanding of a wiring diagram.

 

[AussieMav91]

Ah thanks for that mate.

Will that work with a 12v system? From looking online a lot of the GQ's with that TPS were 24v.

Thanks again mate. Looks like I might have to order from Japan and wait haha.

Cheers, Mark.

I ordered through my local Truck UD/ Volvo Dealership. Was here from Japan in just over a week.

Yup. So I run the Factory 12V TD42 TCU. With the TPS, 3 wires are switching and the other 3 are a potentiometer. So what ever the input voltage is or position is it will output accordingly. Doesnt mattet what voltage. I have tired all 3 factory GQ, TB carb, TB efi and TD TCUs for differences in shift points and they all work with the 6 Wire TPS. When I fit the TPS I only pinned in the 5V+ and measured the Idle voltages to set it up as per manual. Then when i had it at factory specs I finished off the other 2 pins. The other 3 wires are an input, full throttle and idle switch.

I installed a kickdown switch under the throttle pedal, wired in the Factory Power/Hold/Auto dash switch also so I can lock it in gears when low ranging. Also a manual Torque Converter Lockup switch on a DPDT throw switch so when the Factory switch is in AUTO it will lock 4th as normal or I can tell it to manually lock or not lock.

 

[Mjerksen]

I ordered through my local Truck UD/ Volvo Dealership. Was here from Japan in just over a week.

Yup. So I run the Factory 12V TD42 TCU. With the TPS, 3 wires are switching and the other 3 are a potentiometer. So what ever the input voltage is or position is it will output accordingly. Doesnt mattet what voltage. I have tired all 3 factory GQ, TB carb, TB efi and TD TCUs for differences in shift points and they all work with the 6 Wire TPS. When I fit the TPS I only pinned in the 5V+ and measured the Idle voltages to set it up as per manual. Then when i had it at factory specs I finished off the other 2 pins. The other 3 wires are an input, full throttle and idle switch.

I installed a kickdown switch under the throttle pedal, wired in the Factory Power/Hold/Auto dash switch also so I can lock it in gears when low ranging. Also a manual Torque Converter Lockup switch on a DPDT throw switch so when the Factory switch is in AUTO it will lock 4th as normal or I can tell it to manually lock or not lock.

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I'm guessing this is it? Looks like it was used in the old TD27 motors as well.

Yeah I'll eventually get around to putting a manual torque converter lockup into it definitely. Will be good for the long steep descents in the high country. My gear shift only allows me to select 1s, 2nd and then Drive, unlike some of the other models though.

Thanks so much for the info mate. I'm not bad when it comes to the mechanical side of things, but this electrical stuff isn't my forte.

 

[AussieMav91]

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I'm guessing this is it? Looks like it was used in the old TD27 motors as well.

Yeah I'll eventually get around to putting a manual torque converter lockup into it definitely. Will be good for the long steep descents in the high country. My gear shift only allows me to select 1s, 2nd and then Drive, unlike some of the other models though.

Thanks so much for the info mate. I'm not bad when it comes to the mechanical side of things, but this electrical stuff isn't my forte.

Yeah the sensor looks the same. Make sure you dont loose the little plastic coupling between the adjustable drive flange and the sensor ontop of the pump. The pump shpuld have a little jam nut to a shaft with 2 flats, then a little plastic coupling in which the TPS goes into.

I went to my local fuel injection shop and got one from a TD42Ti that had thr electrics removed from the pump.

I run all 100% stock GQ shifter setup also. So GQ auto shifter, which is P R N D 2 1. I wired the button (Overdrive) on the selector in so it all works as stock. Will shift 1,2,3,4 in D or only 1,2,3 if OD switch is pressed. To be honest wirh 35s, 4.11 ratios and the Auto.. I NEVER USE 4TH! I drive with overdrive off and just lock the converter in 3rd for anything above 80 to 90km and will comfortably sit at 2600 to 2800 at 110kmh if I put it in 4th it drops to 2300 to 2400 and labours and EGTs get up there.

 

[Mjerksen]

Thanks for all your help guys. After 18 months off the road after the TB died, my Patrol is finally back up and running as an auto TD42!

I have a couple of questions though. It's doing what other people have mentioned where it won't change gears on its own unless I let off the pedal. Feels a bit like driving a manual! How have others who are using the 6 pin TPS solved that issue? I followed the amended wiring diagram from Mytqik at the start of this thread.

The other one I want to fix is the tachometer. This is an older TD motor with the tach sensor on the front of the timing cover with two wires coming out of it. Has anyone got a photo or good description of what wire I need to tap it into on the back of the TB45 dash to make it work? I'm happy with it only working above 1000revs for the moment.

Sorry for all the questions lads, 12v wiring is not my strong suit.

Cheers, Mark.

 

[JFF45]

Did you set your idle voltage correctly with the TPS?

The tacho will require a Dakota Digital converter. There are several threads that explain it.

 

[Bazzleeswagger]

I am I the process of converting my GU Ti TB45 auto over to a TD42 auto. There is a link in my signature to my build thread for more information on the mechanical side of things.

Everything below is to suit a 1994 black top GQ TD42 into a 1998 GU Ti TB45. Please double check everything before following my lead

As I do the wiring I thought I would document it, save anyone else the hours that I have trawled over GQ & GU wiring diagrams.

Starter:
The heavy Black/red (50mm2) main power cable can be re-used. I re-lugged it to suit my new battery terminals better.
The White/red (6mm2) wire will need to have the blade plug cut off the end and a ring crimped on.

Alternator:
The alternator and P/S pump are on different sides from the TB to the TD, therefore the TB wiring will need to be extended to suit.
I used my old 50mm2 winch power cable in place of the *** cable that runs from the ALT to the fuse box.
The black wire needs to be extended with a ring crimped on the end.
I found that the plug for the yellow/red & yellow/black is actually the same plug/pin outs as the TD42 alt, so I just extended these 2 wires and re-used the TB45 plug.

Hey mate

I realise this a old post but did you happen to have any of the picture from your conversion as ive just about finished mine and finally tackling the wiring and fuel lines as my last challenge .
I have dual tanks and keeping the TB45 auto so dont wanna cut anything of incase i need it laters any advise ?

 

[JFF45]

Hey mate

I realise this a old post but did you happen to have any of the picture from your conversion as ive just about finished mine and finally tackling the wiring and fuel lines as my last challenge .
I have dual tanks and keeping the TB45 auto so dont wanna cut anything of incase i need it laters any advise ?

In case you don't get a reply from the OP, you'll need to remove the electric fuel pump from the main tank and insert a length of fuel hose in its place. While you have the fuel pump cover off you can clean out the remaining petrol.
I used the fuel pump wiring to wire in a Carter lift pump that I fitted in place of the TB45E fuel filter in the chassis because you need to remove that too. That allowed me to keep the ECU function of running the lift pump for 5 secs when ignition is turned on so I get initial pressure while glow circuit is working.
Leave the sub tank as it is. It works the same for diesel fuel.
You'll need to cut out the fuel tank entry pipes to fit the diesel nozzles at the bowsers.
Otherwise, I kept my original 8mm fuel lines and simply connected them to the TD42 diesel filter.
I think most of my pics are still available in my conversion thread.