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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

so I decided to go safe and install most of the NADS mods to my 2007 Patrol Walkabout with the ZD30CRD engine. Workshop appointment with a 4x4 specialist recommended in my club for it is coming up next week.

Now I can either buy the items online and get them installed by the workshop or buy throught the workshop and have them install it.

They offer a package deal for 1450 AUD for dawes valve, EGR blocking, catch can and and intercooler upgrade with bigger cooler and replacement of those crimped fins including labor.

Online I could buy a set like this
Dawes Valve Needle Valve EGR Plate MAF Patrol ZD30 Common Rail | eBay
with
-Dawes Valve
-Needle Valve
-MAF sensor
-EGR blocking plate = 261 AUD
plus a Provent 200 catch can via Air Filters, Oil Filters, Fuel Filters & Filter Cleaning Services - Western Filters offers a range of Filter products for comprehensive coverage for on-highway, off-highway, construction, agricultural, industrial, genset, lift trucks and marine equip = 265 AUD

thats 526 AUD plus labor for around 350 AUD = 876 AUD. That would leave 574 AUD for an intercooler upgrade.

Now first of all the workshop doesn't have a needle valve in their set because they say it is more trouble than it is worth. I always thought the dawes valve only makes sense if you also do the needle valve?

Second the workshop offers a no name catch can and no MAF sensor for approximately the same price.

I tend to buy the parts online, but of course I am not a mechanic. Normally I would trust the mechanic and let him have a bit of profit of those parts, but it seems I might be making a bad deal here!?!

1) How hard / time consuming would it be for them to install dawes & needle valve and set it to correct position? Would you ever need to redo it?

2) Is MAF sensor replacement something worth doing?

3) Are cheaper intercooler replacement worth doing it if you don't go all in with a ASE kit?

4) Is the provent catch can 200 really that much better than no name products?

Thanks for your help

Philipp
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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The only difference between a ZD30 DI and CRD (apart from material specifications) is a different fuel system/head and a better (some say) ECU. Not all CRD need a Dawes, but some do respond very well. Installing a Dawes without a needle is just limiting the flexibility you can achieve, you can play with it as much or as little as you feel happy with, but it does give you flexibility under different conditions, so I don't think they fully understand the system themselves.

This also depends on what you have planned for the future as far as mods go, if you have a few in mind then it's more important.

Have you read the info on NADS in the DI archives section, it still applies to a CRD that fits NADS. It's not that hard to do yourself and you can do it for under $100 bucks if you buy the Dawes and Needle off 3bar racing (again see archives) If your not mechanically inclined the EGR block and Gauges (you don't mention them) are better off being done by a good workshop.

As for IC get the best you can afford, cheap cores don't function well, the bigger the IC the better it works, also fit an underslung fan if you want the best results. I have had a Cross Country for many years and would do it again, I love it.

You don't need a MAF if yours is reading correctly that's just throwing money away (unless you specifically want a spare), give it a clean with CRC CO Contact Cleaner at each service and it will last a bloody long time.
 

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nissan patrol
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To be really honest, a dawes and needle valve setup on a crd is probably a downgrade over the factory control.

Do not buy cheap air flow meters or catch cans as both are utterly useless and will give more problems than they solve. The AFM's in the crd are very good unlike the early DI units and rarely fail.

I would start with blocking the egr and doing a provent. Then an intercooler upgrade.
If you want to play around with or adjust boost, buy a chip that can do this electronically so the ecu can still retain control of it where necessary.
 

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To be really honest, a dawes and needle valve setup on a crd is probably a downgrade over the factory control.

i would highly disagree with you there, after fitting a bigger exhaust on my 2010 CRD it was painful to drive with a pulsing turbo and acceleration. perhaps a complete standard CRD maybe, but def not after a few mods go on.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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i would highly disagree with you there, after fitting a bigger exhaust on my 2010 CRD it was painful to drive with a pulsing turbo and acceleration. perhaps a complete standard CRD maybe, but def not after a few mods go on.
I've seen this several times, hence my recommendation above and I know of quite a few guy's here I've never met who have fitted them successfully and have been very happy with the result. The more std the unit the less it is required.
 

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Yep hence why I completely disagree with that previous statement. I'm running Dawes an needle myself and drives like a dream since.
 

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I couldnt count how many 2.5/2.75/3" exhaust and chip combo's ive fitted to crd patrols and never seen any issues with them.
The only thing I really did notice is lack of low down torque when using the dawes and needle valve due to the reduced spool up rate you can achieve.

Even when tuning a unichip which controls the boost, nothing over the top is required to make it smooth and higher than normal.
 

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i would highly disagree with you there, after fitting a bigger exhaust on my 2010 CRD it was painful to drive with a pulsing turbo and acceleration. perhaps a complete standard CRD maybe, but def not after a few mods go on.
Was this with the 2.75 exhaust ? I have heard about this issue with the 3 inch exhaust on a 3lt CRD but I have never heard of it with the smaller exhaust. I am hoping to get one for me later this year.
 

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Was this with the 2.75 exhaust ? I have heard about this issue with the 3 inch exhaust on a 3lt CRD but I have never heard of it with the smaller exhaust. I am hoping to get for for me later this year.

Yeah mate beaudesert 2.75inch turbo back hi flow cat one muffler.
 
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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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I couldnt count how many 2.5/2.75/3" exhaust and chip combo's ive fitted to crd patrols and never seen any issues with them.
The only thing I really did notice is lack of low down torque when using the dawes and needle valve due to the reduced spool up rate you can achieve.

Even when tuning a unichip which controls the boost, nothing over the top is required to make it smooth and higher than normal.
Reduced spoolup is purely an adjustment, the sky is the limit on what spoolup rate you want to adjust in, I'm at 18.5psi @ 2200 rpm now. There is an assumption that everyone will fit a chip, that is not always the case.

All the Dawes and Needle valve gives them is guaranteed simple linear boost control and the ability to play with spoolup rate if required, flexibility for under $100.
 

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Yeah mate beaudesert 2.75inch turbo back hi flow cat one muffler.
Bugger. I thought the 2.75inch was safe from that. Now I am reconsidering what exhaust I am getting on my CRD.
 

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Bugger. I thought the 2.75inch was safe from that. Now I am reconsidering what exhaust I am getting on my CRD.

That's mandrel bent. There's no point getting an exhaust unless u get a hi flow system IMO. The manual boost control will set you back approx $200 if u already have gauges. Well worth doing the exhaust. Or do the chip an exhaust setup an hope for the best!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just to make sure because now I am worried. I am planning on fitting dawes & needle valve as well as a 3" mandrell bent exhaust from Scotts Rod (Scottsrods) without CAT.

So far I don't plan on chip tuning or alike. Will I run into problems?
 

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Nope. I have 3" exhaust and upgraded intercooler and nothing else. It's only made it better and has not caused any problems. Thats even without a dawes and needle. I did try a dawes and needle and that caused more dramas that it was worth.
 

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Just to make sure because now I am worried. I am planning on fitting dawes & needle valve as well as a 3" mandrell bent exhaust from Scotts Rod (Scottsrods) without CAT.

So far I don't plan on chip tuning or alike. Will I run into problems?

nah mate shouldnt cause any dramas.

i would install the exhaust system before the manual boost control, as some dont suffer any boost problems.

in my case i did have surges, so installing the manual boost control has ironed that out and it drives like a dream now.
 

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I have a 2.5" exhaust, no cat and straight through muffler, chip and blocked egr on my crd and after the mods the boost surged. Put up with it for a while until I got sick of it, so fitted a dawes and needle valve and had no issues since. Some say you don't need it on a crd, and others find they need to.
 

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I have a 2.5" exhaust, no cat and straight through muffler, chip and blocked egr on my crd and after the mods the boost surged. Put up with it for a while until I got sick of it, so fitted a dawes and needle valve and had no issues since. Some say you don't need it on a crd, and others find they need to.
Can I ask why you went with a 2.5" exhaust and not the 3"?
 

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Got 3inch exhaust on my 09 and not noticing anything.......how does this surging turbo present when driving?

I dont have a separate boost guage, I just monitor boost on the scan guage2 and its does not seem to have changed with the exhaust.
 

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Nope. I have 3" exhaust and upgraded intercooler and nothing else. It's only made it better and has not caused any problems. Thats even without a dawes and needle. I did try a dawes and needle and that caused more dramas that it was worth.
Maybe it was something in the setup, have seen it work well on a CRD many times, but as we know not all need it, if you weren't having an issue before, I wonder why you tried it?
 
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