[Ethanissan]

Well, I’ve pulled the centre out of the 233, and I’m extremely happy with the condition it’s in. Isn’t gear oil just a great preservative?
That is, until I found these:

Yeah…
I can’t see any visible damage on the centre itself, so I’m pretty concerned that these have come from somewhere deep inside either the lsd or the pinion shaft, but the diff seems to spin extremely well, backlash is perfect, and looks immaculate.
I’ve put a hold on the people lengthening the tailshaft until I figure out what’s going on.
Does anyone know what these are?


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[Ethanissan]

For reverence, this is the condition of the centre:

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[dkril]

Are they broken on the shorter u-shaped sides? Or just on the longer flat efhes at the top of the u?

 

[Ethanissan]

Are they broken on the shorter u-shaped sides? Or just on the longer flat efhes at the top of the u?

Not sure what you mean, but we just had a look in the Gregory’s manual and found out they’re “guide plates” for the lsd friction plate packs:

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[Ethanissan]

Still concerning, and I can’t do anything until I know what to do about it. So I’m a bit stuck


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[dkril]

Not sure what you mean, but we just had a look in the Gregory’s manual and found out they’re “guide plates” for the lsd friction plate packs:

It looks (on this poxxy little phone screen) like the bits were originally one tube shaped component that broke.

My question were was the ends of the "tube" broken off, or is that the original length?

Can't see the parts diagram well enough to see what shape the part(s) originally we're.

 

[grumpyone]

Still concerning, and I can’t do anything until I know what to do about it. So I’m a bit stuck


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I would hazard a guess and say they were not installed correctly,see if you can get another set,

 

[MQTray]

It looks (on this poxxy little phone screen) like the bits were originally one tube shaped component that broke.

My question were was the ends of the "tube" broken off, or is that the original length?

Can't see the parts diagram well enough to see what shape the part(s) originally we're.

The guide plates are mentioned twice on that diagram, both in the exploded friction plate section and also when all friction plates are together on the right hand side. It looks like they house either side of the friction plates so the can’t move side to side when assembled.

I could be wrong but don’t think so.

 

[Ethanissan]

The guide plates are mentioned twice on that diagram, both in the exploded friction plate section and also when all friction plates are together on the right hand side. It looks like they house either side of the friction plates so the can’t move side to side when assembled.

I could be wrong but don’t think so.

Yep so in that diagram it shows that there are 4 plates total in the diff, 2 supporting each set of friction plates. As I’ve found out, two of the ones in this diff have broken off at the crimped ends and found their way thankfully without issues to the bottom of the housing and stayed there. Just before the Ute was parked up ready to start being taken apart to use the drivetrain in the wagon, we took it for a drive to see how the N/A went, and that was the last time the diff was used, so likely it was broken before that, and seemed to work fine. The other two plates are visible still in the diff where they should be, so that’s no issue. As I can only find one of the broken crimped ends but 2 of the plates, it makes me wonder if they’ve been broken for a long time, and one of the broken ends got flushed out with a diff oil change at one stage. Dunno.
Anyway, I’ve concluded that it’s not stuck in the spider gears as they all move full circle without binding up with a tire on each axle for leverage.
TLR
Has probably been broken for a long time with no issues other than having half the LSD working as an open diff


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[Ethanissan]

So I have a hypothesis.
Would it be safe to assume that the plates only hold the LSD friction plates together, and that the diff will still function fine without them, just with less ‘limited slip’?
Only asking as I really want to put the diff in without taking it apart, and would be happy to reserve this as a future job when I know more about setting backlash and torque specs etc, and can happily take the diff apart and put it back together again on my own.

So I believe now that I’ve removed the debris it’s safe to run the diff ‘as is’, as an almost open centre, however I would very much like this to be confirmed before I just put it back together and run it.


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