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Hi all, I'm Stephen using the monika 'StephenandaPatrol'. I purchased my Patrol, a non-modified, 2002 GU111 ST manual with Plus Pack, about a month ago, with 185,000 km on the clock from my Brother-in-Law, who has owned it from new, so I know its full life history. He was a Heavy Diesel Mechanic and then a heavy vehicles TAFE teacher, so did all the minor servicing himself (by the book) using only Nissan parts, filters and oils and had Nissan do all the major servicing (so hopefully they did what they were meant to do). He has never abused it and always used BP Ultimate diesel as the prefered fuel - his faith in BP seems to be well placed, as after 185K km the whole fueling system including fuel pump and injectors, seems to be in excellent condition and blows no smoke under light or heavy load. He and my sister used it extensively to tow their1.8 ton 'van, mainly bitumen miles, with a couple of jaunts up the Strzelecki Track and through the Flinders Rangers thrown in. I think the 4x4 lever has been used less than half a dozen times! I have always liked the GU (and was envious when they bought theirs) - it, the Toyota 80 series and the 1998/1999 105 series I consider to be the cream of the crop in 4x4's, and would happily have anyone of them (particularly if the Toyotas came with the 1HD-FTE engine), so when my Brother-in-Law mentioned he was trading up and wondered if I was interested in the Patrol, I handed over the cash.

That's the happy side of the story, and until I joined the Patrol4x4 forum (and a few others), I was, in ignorance, grinning ear-to-ear every time I drove it and planning what modifications to do to it. Unfortunately, after having spent the last 3 weeks reading through those forums, I am now asking myself whether buying this Patrol, regardless of how well my Brother-in-Law looked after it, was in any way a smart idea, and all of that questioning revolves around this ZD30 engine's propensity to self destruct, particularly the earlier models, (read: 'mine'). So I sit here, struggling with the question of whether I should cut my losses and sell it, regardless of the fact I enjoy driving it, (and thereby making me one of the shortest duration members of Patrol4x4), or somehow coming to terms with driving a reasonably likely grenade (this 185,000-250,000km area for these DDi engines seems to be their most common destruct zone, so, in all likelyhood the damage has been done), or doing a preventative rebuild on the engine at around a $6000 guesstimate, plus all the NADS related stuff, so an easy $10,000 disappearing out the door, just to do the remedial work, using the money that was earmarked for new IC (original Nissan one is leaking oil), 3" exhaust, snorkle, 2" airbag suspension, winch etc etc, knowing that after doing all the remedial work, it most probably won't be worth much more than it is now, and almost none of the things I wanted to do to it, are included in that price so at least another $6,000 for those! A manual 2012/2013 Ford Ranger 3.2 4x4 from Pickles auctions is looking good at that money!!

So my first question to the forum (and I realize this may not be the best place to ask it, so direct me if it isn't) is: is there any way to diagnostically get a better sense of whether an engine is a high likelyhood candidate for self destructing - does pulling the EGR valve and/or inlet manafold to see how coked up it is, give a good insight into how likely it is, that the engine has suffered thermal damage?
 

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Welcome to patrol most information you will ever need is right here
 

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Hi Stephen, all cars and all models have engines that fail, put it into perspective - how many ZD30's have grenaded and how many are still on the road which have double if not more K's than yours without issue ? There are thousands of ZD's running around so the likelihood of having a bad one would be in the very low percentage range, there are things you can do that will help lower the risk (NADS - regular oil/filter change) and drive it like a 4x4 not a sports car. Remember, most people only post things when they go wrong, so you hardly ever hear about the good things because those with a good ZD have nothing to complain about. I also have a 2002 ZD30 DI - I bought it with 220000 k's on it knowing full well about the grenade issues with all intention of putting a 4.2 in it should it blow up - I put the NADS gear on at around 240k's ( after about 18 months of ownership ) - have had it now for 4 years, on 283 k's starts first time everytime, never get hot, does not blow any smoke and has done many trips both on and off road and runs like a dream, off course there are things that need replacing from time to time but have never had an issue with the pistons/head or any engine part, only bolt on parts...............
 

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Hi Stephen, all cars and all models have engines that fail, put it into perspective - how many ZD30's have grenaded and how many are still on the road which have double if not more K's than yours without issue ? There are thousands of ZD's running around so the likelihood of having a bad one would be in the very low percentage range, there are things you can do that will help lower the risk (NADS - regular oil/filter change) and drive it like a 4x4 not a sports car. Remember, most people only post things when they go wrong, so you hardly ever hear about the good things because those with a good ZD have nothing to complain about. I also have a 2002 ZD30 DI - I bought it with 220000 k's on it knowing full well about the grenade issues with all intention of putting a 4.2 in it should it blow up - I put the NADS gear on at around 240k's ( after about 18 months of ownership ) - have had it now for 4 years, on 283 k's starts first time everytime, never get hot, does not blow any smoke and has done many trips both on and off road and runs like a dream, off course there are things that need replacing from time to time but have never had an issue with the pistons/head or any engine part, only bolt on parts...............
Thanks 2002gu3 - what you have said puts a degree of perspective on it, that I didn't have. I appreciate the time you put into your reply. It was given me food for thought and removed a lot of the doom & gloom. I realize the risk is there but perhaps much lower that I was believing.
 

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Hi Stephen, all cars and all models have engines that fail, put it into perspective - how many ZD30's have grenaded and how many are still on the road which have double if not more K's than yours without issue ? There are thousands of ZD's running around so the likelihood of having a bad one would be in the very low percentage range, there are things you can do that will help lower the risk (NADS - regular oil/filter change) and drive it like a 4x4 not a sports car. Remember, most people only post things when they go wrong, so you hardly ever hear about the good things because those with a good ZD have nothing to complain about. I also have a 2002 ZD30 DI - I bought it with 220000 k's on it knowing full well about the grenade issues with all intention of putting a 4.2 in it should it blow up - I put the NADS gear on at around 240k's ( after about 18 months of ownership ) - have had it now for 4 years, on 283 k's starts first time everytime, never get hot, does not blow any smoke and has done many trips both on and off road and runs like a dream, off course there are things that need replacing from time to time but have never had an issue with the pistons/head or any engine part, only bolt on parts...............
Hi Jim, given we have literally the same vehicle, would you mind helping me out by answering an occasional question about what you have done to your vehicle, as I progress with mine. It's practical stuff, like, at the moment I'm replacing my IC and piping, so need to also install a catch-can. I'm wondering where you placed your catch-can, so it doesn't interfer with placement of anything else? Stephen
 

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Yeah Stephen, glad to help where I can,the guys on here have helped me heaps so it'll be good to give back a little - hope this pic. helps a bit - the catch can is the round black thing just to the right of the blue intercooler hose, I put an "L" bracket on the back of the little wall thingy that the ABS canister is bolted to ( just behind the plastic radiator overflow containers ) and bolted the catch can to the bracket, just needed to drill a couple of holes in the bracket to fit the can, the drain hose ( just a bit of plastic hose ) goes through the rubber flap on the inner guard and is just wire tied underneath with a plastic tap from bunnings so it can be emptied.
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Yeah Stephen, glad to help where I can,the guys on here have helped me heaps so it'll be good to give back a little - hope this pic. helps a bit - the catch can is the round black thing just to the right of the blue intercooler hose, I put an "L" bracket on the back of the little wall thingy that the ABS canister is bolted to ( just behind the plastic radiator overflow containers ) and bolted the catch can to the bracket, just needed to drill a couple of holes in the bracket to fit the can, the drain hose ( just a bit of plastic hose ) goes through the rubber flap on the inner guard and is just wire tied underneath with a plastic tap from bunnings so it can be emptied.
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Please zip tie that drain hose to something other than the control arm. Ie the chassis.

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Please zip tie that drain hose to something other than the control arm. Ie the chassis.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Done - I shortened the tube and zip tied it to the chassis (where the big hole is in the last pic.) Thanks for the reminder, it was one of those things I've been going to do for a while but kept forgetting about.
 

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Yeah Stephen, glad to help where I can,the guys on here have helped me heaps so it'll be good to give back a little - hope this pic. helps a bit - the catch can is the round black thing just to the right of the blue intercooler hose, I put an "L" bracket on the back of the little wall thingy that the ABS canister is bolted to ( just behind the plastic radiator overflow containers ) and bolted the catch can to the bracket, just needed to drill a couple of holes in the bracket to fit the can, the drain hose ( just a bit of plastic hose ) goes through the rubber flap on the inner guard and is just wire tied underneath with a plastic tap from bunnings so it can be emptied.
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Thanks for the description and pictures - they are a great help!
 

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Yeah Stephen, glad to help where I can,the guys on here have helped me heaps so it'll be good to give back a little - hope this pic. helps a bit - the catch can is the round black thing just to the right of the blue intercooler hose, I put an "L" bracket on the back of the little wall thingy that the ABS canister is bolted to ( just behind the plastic radiator overflow containers ) and bolted the catch can to the bracket, just needed to drill a couple of holes in the bracket to fit the can, the drain hose ( just a bit of plastic hose ) goes through the rubber flap on the inner guard and is just wire tied underneath with a plastic tap from bunnings so it can be emptied.
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They are great photos - very helpful. Much appreciated. I know the ProVent has 1" diameter inlet & outlet but can you tell me the diameter of the Nissan end of things, so I know what stepdown I need to buy? Also, where did you buy the tubing - SuperCheap? Or else where? I'm assuming I need oil resistant piping. Stephen
 

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Hi Stephen, sorry for the late reply, I've been away..........from memory the outlets on the engine are (1/2'' -12mm) and (5/8'' -16mm) yes oil resistant pipe is what I used - bought all the bits at PIRTEK.............check a place called western filters, I'm pretty sure they have a kit ready to fit...........
 

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Hi Stephen, sorry for the late reply, I've been away..........from memory the outlets on the engine are (1/2'' -12mm) and (5/8'' -16mm) yes oil resistant pipe is what I used - bought all the bits at PIRTEK.............check a place called western filters, I'm pretty sure they have a kit ready to fit...........
Thanks again Jim.
 
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