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New bar.

2073 Views 32 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  AndrieK
Evening all.
I'm looking at getting a new bull bar.
Xrox.
So why is the series 1-3 patrol, cheaper than the series 4 & on?
The chassis is the same.
No crumple zones in it.
What did change? I was under the illusion changes were just trim & standard inclusions from series 4 & on.
Or is it because of the different wheel flares from 3 to 4....
????
Somebody......
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Cardigan (or whatever his name is) is a self righteous twat who thinks he's an expert on everything 4x4 (writes it on his vid format even) and probably many other things. He gets fatter and fatter in his vids every year so life must be good for him :rolleyes: he talks about Bogans, he's a good example of one. For every good video he does he makes several crap ones, some bad ones really stand out.

Let's analyse the word expert,
ex = has been
Spert = drip under pressure
So expert = has been drip under pressure.

Now for my take on bull bars.
I have always had them on my 4by's of which I've owned 4 since 1982/3, none have been steel. OK so ally isn't as strong as steel but that doesn't concern me, weight is what concerns me, so ally has always been my choice, I've never owned a winch either, but I have pulled myself out of trouble by wrapping a snatch strap then tying off to a tree and winching myself out via the wheel. I do like to travel with friends where we can lend each other a hand in times of trouble, ie: in my jeep I was on a track out the back of Bathurst and we took a short cut across a field of Melaleuca, my mate was in front by around 20meters, all of a sudden I get stuck, get out and find that underneath a few inches of soil was mud with the consistency of porridge, my mate had cracked the top layer and I went through it and was sinking fast, took a bit of effort but he was able to pull me out.

It may sound strange but I've never hit a Roo in a 4by (hit one in my wifes old car, but I spotted him and was going slow when he contacted the mudguard and bounced off, got up straight away and leaped off) I've been 3/4 of the way around AU in the last 2 of my 4by's but still did a lot of tracking in the back Blue Mountains in my earlier two.

Many years ago I took the action of being off the roads and tracks before dusk for the very reason of letting the wildlife have their time, at all other times I'm very watchful and if for some reason I need to be on the road at night my lights illuminate up to hundreds of meters ahead and twenty plus meters either side, right beside us.

The ally bullbars have worked quite well in their main job of protecting the front of the vehicle when driving old overgrown tracks, my saw and machete also help.

I'm not that much into hard core tracks these days (have been in the past) but a rough track doesn't stop me from going to a place I wish to visit.

My 2 cents worth. 馃挜馃挜馃挜馃挜馃ぎ:eek:
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Not to bring the thread too far off topic, but I've only seen a couple videos by him, and I agree, I don't like his condescending tone towards anything 4wd related, essentially calls anyone who modifies their 4wd a bogan, and I completely lost all respect for him after his video on snorkels. Self righteous is certainly the right word for it.
Literally the first sentence of the video and I don't want to see him again :rolleyes:
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Funny鈥 I have the opposite opinion on Cadogan.

I don鈥檛 particularly like his style and his presentation is quite often over the top, but when I look past all that and I put my engineering hat on it is, most of the time, very hard to argue with the facts. Physics is physics and you can鈥檛 argue engineering principles away.

You could say that they way he goes about his videos is a pity, but YouTube says there are 339,000 people who seemed to enjoy it. (For he record, I鈥檓 not one of them.)
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Funny鈥 I have the opposite opinion on Cadogan.

I don鈥檛 particularly like his style and his presentation is quite often over the top, but when I look past all that and I put my engineering hat on it is, most of the time, very hard to argue with the facts. Physics is physics and you can鈥檛 argue engineering principles away.

You could say that they way he goes about his videos is a pity, but YouTube says there are 339,000 people who seemed to enjoy it. (For he record, I鈥檓 not one of them.)
I'm an Engineer as well 馃檪, and have 4x4'd for 40 years.
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I'm an Engineer as well 馃檪, and have 4x4'd for 40 years.
I know you are, and from what I鈥檝e seen, a very good one at that. And what you do with your Patrol and the way you operate it has always fallen into the 鈥渃ommon sense鈥 category in my opinion.

But I also have a fair bit of automotive engineering experience (since that鈥檚 what I鈥檝e been doing for the last 23 years) and have first hand knowledge of what happens in the aftermarket accessory world. And no matter how big a d !ck he is, what Cadogan says is pretty much on the money.
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I know you are, and from what I鈥檝e seen, a very good one at that. And what you do with your Patrol and the way you operate it has always fallen into the 鈥渃ommon sense鈥 category in my opinion.

But I also have a fair bit of automotive engineering experience (since that鈥檚 what I鈥檝e been doing for the last 23 years) and have first hand knowledge of what happens in the aftermarket accessory world. And no matter how big a d !ck he is, what Cadogan says is pretty much on the money.
I think it is horses for courses as far as bull bars are concerned, we all have our reasoning, as I indicared I won't fit a steel bar due to my carefully considered reasoning. I'm not saying he is always wrong, what I'm saying is he's an inconsiderate, narcissistic moron who is sadly lacking in social presentation skills. He goes on about Bogans, he knows all about them because he is one, :).
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Lol.......

I am not a fan of the Xrox bars. The bolt on wings turn me off straightaway. To make them look half decent you have to trim the lower corners of the radiator support panel. And paint that area black. If you do not do this it could be damaged as there is no bar work to protect this. Post #2 shows clearly what I am describing.

I always liked the original nissan supplied GU steel bar. @AndrieK would know but I think they were engineered, constructed and supplied by ARB?
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I always liked the original nissan supplied GU steel bar. @AndrieK would know but I think they were engineered, constructed and supplied by ARB?
Correct. Steel bar was made by ARB. Alloy bar was made by TJM.
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Correct. Steel bar was made by ARB. Alloy bar was made by TJM.
Hmmm! Must have been change somewhere, mine was made by ECB.
Hmmm! Must have been change somewhere, mine was made by ECB.
Could be. Series I, II, & III is before my time. There was also a stainless steel brush guard tubular style bar early on that was a factory bar out of Japan. It was quite expensive which is one of the reasons a local development was kicked off.

Fun fact鈥 Nissan AUS also exported the ARB steel bars to South Africa.
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Correct. Steel bar was made by ARB. Alloy bar was made by TJM.
My steel bar has TJM on it. 馃
My steel bar has TJM on it. 馃
The steel bulbar on my series 2 definitely looked like a TJM bar rather then an ARB style bar


There have to be some differences in the front chassis area between the two groups because the bolt on recovery points are different between the two groups as well.
OB is right, the recovery points sold for each are different but........
I bought a set of recovery points for my series 2 but then sold it and bought my 2016 series 10 and guess what....
The series 2 recovery points bolted straight on!

The series 4+ recovery points add in a bolt that bolts up from bottom. There must be an extra captive nut on the chasis there. I'm pretty sure my gu2 had a hole there but no nut (if that makes sense).

To my knowledge the only real differences between all the front ends is cosmetic. The series 4+ grill sticks out further and the lights are a different shape. Pretty confident the chassis rails are the same shape,size and length (obviously there is an extra captive nut or two in the later series)

I've heard of people putting the earlier series bull bars on later models, you just need to trip up either the grill or the bar to make it fit.

A bloke with your skill would have no problem doing that馃槈
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Easiest way to confirm if a bar is Genuine or not is to check the part number on the compliance plate. Should be either 11 or 12 digits. First digit should be an F, six and seven should be VC or VD, eleventh should be A and twelfth (if applicable) should be U.

Mine is F2210-VD150AU. Alloy bar of the same era was F2200-VD750AU
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