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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
G'day Crew.


I have only just returned triumphant, by that i mean i bought a GU.

As you can see she is a 4.5 TI

531959


I won't bore you with the details but i had a GQ ute 12-15 years ago and i've been in and out of this forum for years.

Hopefully this will be a log of my ultimate success in creating a reliable and registered adventure car for the family.


more to come.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
There is a fair list of items required to get a roadworthy (VIC) let alone a wish list.

I'll start with describing my first two failures.

Failure the first.

Steering damper.

Old damper eye type came off ok, however the ****ty (Repco) replacement i purchased was a very very tight fit in the tapped housing.... long story short i stripped the threads while forcing the fittings in. i really should know better, i should heated or removed some material but i didn't. so with a good dose of the ****s i butchered the new base plate dick thing off with the angle grinder.....


Problem the second.

While under the car i noticed some fresh black paint and some rather ****ty looking welds on the chassis, i'd previously dismissed the fresh black paint as the seller trying to tart her up a little.

the image below shows the paint and what i was starting to think was a patch installed after a front end bingle, this image doesn't show the shyte welds but they are truly aweful.

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So for the next 2 hours i was convinced i'd bought a dodgy repair job, and it wasn't going to pass road worthy, and i was going to have to find a chassis and swap this cab/running gear onto it.... Yes i'd had a few beers by now.

an hour of frantic searching google and forum images yielded this nice video on youtube. i have now convinced myself that what i have is semi normal, but i't did take a few years off my life.

531960





:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
  • New front rotors and pads
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531998
 

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Nuffin now
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Factory welding always looks it it was done by some Dodgy Brother's outfit on Patrols. :unsure: 😬

Foo
 
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Factory welding always looks it it was done by some Dodgy Brother's outfit on Patrols. :unsure: 😬

Foo
The contact top holder on the MIG stripped out the other day. Welder was going hot, cold running perfect one minute then spattering and not feeding the next.

Still, better than what you would find on many vehicle chassis.
 

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When I did my ZD30 to TD42 conversions on my GU's after I had welded the mounts in properly I turned the gas off and made a couple factory looking hits to the top of the weld. In that way my welds had the spatter and terrible look that most of the factory welds also had. The chassis welds on Patrols were all done at the at 4.59pm on a Friday.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Plugs and leads done.

Pulled the new ARB single compressor out of the challenger and mounted it under the drivers seat, i had it under the seat in my old GQ so i was prepared for the noise, but i might make a ply cover one day to quiet it down, but probably not.

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Ordering the Titan draws with wings for the rear, i made some drawers for my Challenger and i don't fancy doing it again.

Still need to find a place to mount the little GME TX3100, (stolen from the challenger)
 
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Small thread drift...

Don't fret about the welding. There's actually reasons why they look like crap. They do the MIG (technically "MAG" in this case) welds using 100% carbon dioxide for the shielding gas. They do this because it is cheaper, faster and, when done using robotics especially, much more tolerant of cold lap welding defects caused by variable fit-up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Rear sway bar links and brake pads done as per the roadworthy knock list, had to trim some thread off the extended links to get close to the right away bar angle, I left plenty in case I go the 3" coils in the future.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Extended brake lines in as per road worthy, a little awkward but not too bad, hopefully I didn't damage any of the flared ends of the lines.

Nolathane sway Bushes in, couldnt source rubber in time.

Radius arms out, might try heating the arm up and vise pressing the bushes out, failing that a mate has a press

:)
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Roadworthy complete and successful!


Titan draws installed, very happy with a fit. they could have provided the bolts needed to fit the the body, but for the price they seem exceptional value.

Still trying to figure out the auto transmission, i'm not very experienced with autos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
2" coils out, 3" Lovells in, HD is rear, they ride and move nicely in the bush, very happy. Should have replaced the upper pads while i was at it, oh well






532671
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
After having a look at jackbyo's build thread i got some inspiration to rip out the seat behind the driver to fit a fridge in a more elegant and permanent fashion.

Also ripped the drivers door off to fix the hinges, removing the door wasn't too hard however it is bloody heavy and awkward, i managed to squat down with my knees supporting the weight of the door and remove it safely, but i probably wouldn't recommend this method.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Got bored so zipped to bunnings and grabbed a gas strut and mount.

533094


I double sided taped the bracket on to make sure the door would shut before drilling the holes, i would prefer the "dick" pointing upwards, but this is what i ended up doing.

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Part numbers i used. i think it was the smaller 345mm 150n strut from bunnings. it only just had enough travel. Mounting the base bracket 5mm- 10mm to the left in the picture would have been safer.

i used the following video to give me some idea of what i was doing.



After some helpful pointers and a few videos, i decided the fridge was going to sit here nicely, the tie down points are the base seat belt loop and the other side is the seat post under the passenger rear seat. A stove or jerry can might sit behind the fridge, and something can sit in front of it using the fridge as a divider. i was going to make a ply base for the fridge to sit on, but i thought id try this first.

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The winch was next on the list. Warn XD9000

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533091


The wire cable was all kinds of messed up, i'd always wanted a rope winch line, so i purchased a cheap ish "Fiery Red" (black) winch line, hoping to strike the sweet spot between quality and total garbage.
Turns out the rear bearing in the winch motor was seized, ripco (Repco) had what i needed. i stripped it all down and greased the gears and cleaned the motor up as much as i was prepared to, given the condition.

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Seems to work well, albeit a few loud sparky-pops as the brushes sorted out their problems, i'll probably order a new motor soon just to be safe.
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I thought it was time to throw the GU into some situations to build my confidence in her, mainly the auto i'm trying to wrap my head around. after some rocky steep hills i knew well, i thought i test the winch i a place I've seen many come unstuck, it is just greasy clay that cloggs up the tyres, then you slide back down the hill and down the drain. Not particularly steep, just slippery.

I had just changed the bearing in the winch and cleaned out a lot of rust, and didn't trust it to drag 3t 300m up a slippery clay hill. so i decided to winch up/over and lower back over the spoon drain. The Warn XD9000 will certainly struggle to drag the GU up rocky cliffs or out of bogs but it did ok here. i'll use a block if the going gets tough for it.


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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Time for an update.

Dual battery system installed, battery lives behind the rear left seat up against the draws.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Asphalt Automotive exterior


Charger didnt end up living there, but that is where i planned to put it, yes its a tight squeeze.
Sleeve Automotive design Automotive exterior Auto part Audio equipment



You can see where the charger ended up being located, behind the gas torch in the picture.

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More to come.
 
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