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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey fellas, I need to pick a few of your brains here. I have a 10’ CRD that is stock besides 33” wheels with 2” lift. Car has 210,000kms on it and the fuel consumption is about 20L per 100km.

I cleaned the MAF and cleaned the air filter which i blew grey/white smoke for about 30 seconds after turning the car on even though engine was warm, despite that my fuel econ went WAY down and I had more power. But sadly now the consumption has reverted to a state of a thirsty ****.

any blokes know what to try from here to figure this out? I do not drive it like a racecar either
 

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Was known as JT54_Y61 GU IV 08CRD Wag ST
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Gauges are a good idea especially boost / EGT plus a scan tool if you intend to keep veh for some time.

Some scan tool measure boost and also report on any fault/trouble codes that can identify any eng performance issues. The scan tool can be used to erase fault code and help diagnose problems.
EGT measurement, you require to have a pyro probe fitted (normally the exhaust dump pipe) and connected to the mating gauge. There are many gauges / tool on the market and can get apps for use with smartphone device.

I cleaned the MAF and cleaned the air filter which i blew grey/white smoke for about 30 seconds after turning the car on even though engine was warm, despite that my fuel econ went WAY down and I had more power. But sadly now the consumption has reverted to a state of a thirsty ****.

MAF seems to be having impact:
What did you clean it with?
Was is air dried before re fitting / starting?
Can test the MAF sensor with multimeter in car (back probe connector).
Would think about buying a new genuine MAF sensor (good as spare anyway).

Grey / White smoke _ "white" can indicate condensation but with grey could be excess fuel, but suggest remove the metal pressure cap on the plastic radiator header tank (surge tank) and with engine at idle do you see any air bubbles rising in the header tank?

Injectors may also be impacting??
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Gauges are a good idea especially boost / EGT plus a scan tool if you intend to keep veh for some time.

Some scan tool measure boost and also report on any fault/trouble codes that can identify any eng performance issues. The scan tool can be used to erase fault code and help diagnose problems.
EGT measurement, you require to have a pyro probe fitted (normally the exhaust dump pipe) and connected to the mating gauge. There are many gauges / tool on the market and can get apps for use with smartphone device.




MAF seems to be having impact:
What did you clean it with?
Was is air dried before re fitting / starting?
Can test the MAF sensor with multimeter in car (back probe connector).
Would think about buying a new genuine MAF sensor (good as spare anyway).

Grey / White smoke _ "white" can indicate condensation but with grey could be excess fuel, but suggest remove the metal pressure cap on the plastic radiator header tank (surge tank) and with engine at idle do you see any air bubbles rising in the header tank?

Injectors may also be impacting??
I cleaned it with SCA electrical cleaner and then dried it by blowing the MAF surface.
I think you’re right about a new MAF sensor, will likely order a new one this week from patrolapart.

i will test that shortly and get back to you on that, I also ordered a new air filter just to be safe as well.

i have read injectors usually start to go around 150,000-200,000kms and mines past that so may have to get them tested to see if they’re up to spec..
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Sadly I don’t have gauges for them, is that my next best move?
Cheers
Absobloodylutely, the info helps us to help you otherwise we are all flying blind, suggest you read the NADS thread to grab basic info gathering setup suggestions.
Even though the CRD and DI are different they share many aspects, information gathering is one of them. One info gathering difference is the DI can utilise an ECUTalk to gather ECU info, whereas the CRD system is different and requires a Scangauge type instrument.
 

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Was known as JT54_Y61 GU IV 08CRD Wag ST
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What’s the target here? I’m getting around 14.xx/100ks (mainly outside city but with lots of hills and turns) with 2” lift, 33s, roof racks and roof box. This looks not too bad to me or is it?
Use to have same with OEM build eng w/manual boost control (13.5-14 l/100km)_33s / 2" lift. With mods now same run out of town hyw/country roads 11.5 /100 ks and trips(Hume hwy stuff) nom 10.8l/100ks.

20l/100ks would not cut the mustard for me at all. More to it than eco here maybe.
 

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2013 GU Patrol Wagon ZD30 Auto
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Use to have same with OEM build eng w/manual boost control (13.5-14 l/100km)_33s / 2" lift. With mods now same run out of town hyw/country roads 11.5 /100 ks and trips(Hume hwy stuff) nom 10.8l/100ks.

20l/100ks would not cut the mustard for me at all. More to it than eco here maybe.
Hm that’s interesting, what did you do?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
What’s the target here? I’m getting around 14.xx/100km (mainly outside city but with lots of hills and turns) with 2” lift, 33s, roof racks and roof box. This looks not too bad to me or is it?
As close as I can get to 10L as possible, I am going to replace the MAF and air filter and go from there, next step will likely be installing a device to check for error codes
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Use to have same with OEM build eng w/manual boost control (13.5-14 l/100km)_33s / 2" lift. With mods now same run out of town hyw/country roads 11.5 /100 ks and trips(Hume hwy stuff) nom 10.8l/100ks.

20l/100ks would not cut the mustard for me at all. More to it than eco here maybe.
Yeah I think you are right man, theres no way getting 350-400kms per tank is normal, especially when cleaning maf and air filter completely halved fuel consumption temporarily. (I thought i broke the gauge somehow because it improved so much)
 

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Hm that’s interesting, what did you do?
This thread is not the place for me to show tell. Basic need to get it to breathe better_4" thru air box K&N pod filter/4" snorkel and 3" to turbo, h/f procharge turbo, improved VNT vane mgt, FM 600x300x76mm cooler, ECM remap, has plenty of induction noise with minimal turbo surge (do not need pigeon song/dose).
 

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As close as I can get to 10L as possible, I am going to replace the MAF and air filter and go from there, next step will likely be installing a device to check for error codes
An app (torque pro etc ) most likely cheapest option, I do have an EDS scan tool here that I use to run / up to you _ $20+post).

Ultragauge is what I use and they come BT compatible now mine is plugged into OBD11 port.
UltraGauge OBDII Scan tool and Information Center

Heaps of types available
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Use to have same with OEM build eng w/manual boost control (13.5-14 l/100km)_33s / 2" lift. With mods now same run out of town hyw/country roads 11.5 /100 ks and trips(Hume hwy stuff) nom 10.8l/100ks.

20l/100ks would not cut the mustard for me at all. More to it than eco here maybe.
That is what I would expect from a CRD. My Di fluctuates between mid 10's and low 12's and I've got +50 injectors in mine.
 

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2007 Nissan Patrol Y61 Wagon AT 2009 ZD30CRD Engine
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20L/100km is heart attack material!

I'd be running gauges straight up to see what's going on. Cheap insurance that can save you thousands in the long run, as well as a hefty fuel bill.

You're evidently having problems, which could turn catastrophic if not treated quickly.

High EGT's can be from low boost and from poor air flow. I noticed myself EGT's and fuel consumption were up significantly with low boost, as the engine is trying to produce the power without the airflow to rid the exhaust gasses.

This can also be from a blocked up exhaust. A muffler that's full of soot, a ding in the exhaust that's restricting flow or a bend in the exhaust from something moving around.

Incomplete combustion from a rich fuel mixture leads to high EGT's as the fuel is burning after it exits the chamber and into the manifold and turbo.

Anyways, you won't get the information you critically need with an OBD2 scanner. There's no pyrometer on the vehicle standard, so it won't pick up EGT's. A cheap scanner is good but a bit slow. The expensive ones are fast, but still limited on information. They're good for checking fuel and air flow and checking and clearing codes.

Lionel
 
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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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20L/100km is heart attack material!

I'd be running gauges straight up to see what's going on. Cheap insurance that can save you thousands in the long run, as well as a hefty fuel bill.

You're evidently having problems, which could turn catastrophic if not treated quickly.

High EGT's can be from low boost and from poor air flow. I noticed myself EGT's and fuel consumption were up significantly with low boost, as the engine is trying to produce the power without the airflow to rid the exhaust gasses.

This can also be from a blocked up exhaust. A muffler that's full of soot, a ding in the exhaust that's restricting flow or a bend in the exhaust from something moving around.

Incomplete combustion from a rich fuel mixture leads to high EGT's as the fuel is burning after it exits the chamber and into the manifold and turbo.

Anyways, you won't get the information you critically need with an OBD2 scanner. There's no pyrometer on the vehicle standard, so it won't pick up EGT's. A cheap scanner is good but a bit slow. The expensive ones are fast, but still limited on information. They're good for checking fuel and air flow and checking and clearing codes.

Lionel
Just to add high EGT can come from to much fuel, leaking injectors, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
20L/100km is heart attack material!

I'd be running gauges straight up to see what's going on. Cheap insurance that can save you thousands in the long run, as well as a hefty fuel bill.

You're evidently having problems, which could turn catastrophic if not treated quickly.

High EGT's can be from low boost and from poor air flow. I noticed myself EGT's and fuel consumption were up significantly with low boost, as the engine is trying to produce the power without the airflow to rid the exhaust gasses.

This can also be from a blocked up exhaust. A muffler that's full of soot, a ding in the exhaust that's restricting flow or a bend in the exhaust from something moving around.

Incomplete combustion from a rich fuel mixture leads to high EGT's as the fuel is burning after it exits the chamber and into the manifold and turbo.

Anyways, you won't get the information you critically need with an OBD2 scanner. There's no pyrometer on the vehicle standard, so it won't pick up EGT's. A cheap scanner is good but a bit slow. The expensive ones are fast, but still limited on information. They're good for checking fuel and air flow and checking and clearing codes.

Lionel
Ah ****, okay.
So next move if MAF and air filter replacement is egt and boost gauges, then return here with the results? Or is it better idea to take it to a mechanic for diagnostic asap given how bad overboosting is for the engine?(and risk being ripped off)

i had a look under the car and cannot see any damage to the exhaust but hard to tell in the dark with a flashlight haha

Could the batch of fuel used to fill up somewhat decently effect efficiency of a vehicle?
 
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