you mean speedo? Yeah mine is spot on, too, but not the odometer.
theres’s also a difference between what speeedo shows and the speed you get from ecu via obd, so depends on which way you used.
Nissan Patrol 2010 CRD fuel consumption
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theres’s also a difference between what speeedo shows and the speed you get from ecu via obd, so depends on which way you used.
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Both actually, my method of measuring was resetting the ODO, then mapping a straight line on maps and driving to the destination & comparing what it reads on odo.
Alright then. Was just hoping you may have smaller consumption than you think
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I wish, I haven't given my car a name yet but I think "The Thirsty Camel" sounds pretty fitting... I have boost at 17 psi so will reduce to 15 psi to see how much that brings it down. Cant wait to see if new exhaust + exhaust manifold replacement helps loads too.Alright then. Was just hoping you may have smaller consumption than you think
@Jimmytrol55
For now (as previously said) _ Best idea would be rectify the exhaust manifold leak, fit EGR blank plate at exhaust manifold, upgrade exhaust system and go forward from there.
BTW _ Just as a reminder, when u removed vac source to swirl valve solenoid did you block the line/port off?
For now (as previously said) _ Best idea would be rectify the exhaust manifold leak, fit EGR blank plate at exhaust manifold, upgrade exhaust system and go forward from there.
BTW _ Just as a reminder, when u removed vac source to swirl valve solenoid did you block the line/port off?
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Hey Bidja,
okay, i’ll do that and if things dont improve from there then the block is definitely coming out! 😂
no, I was silly and didn’t get around to it.. isthat going to cause issues?
EGR?
That hose u removed from swirl solenoid has vacuum on it _ block it off.
Put your finger on the hose end u will feel slight vacuum.
CRD can leave swirl solenoid HOSES connected and just use 330 ohm resistor (connected cross terminals) just need to ensure swirl valve is/stays open_NOT STUCK CLOSED.
CRD boost controller removal and disable swirl valve mod
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Uh oh, i'm an idiot and didn't even think it was still in use haha. I just blocked both ends off so i'll find out later if it has changed performance.
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Definitely seen an improvement since blocking the vacuum, have done about 350kms on just over half a tank atm.
Though I think I may have to look at the injectors as a cause for fuel consumption again. It has come to my attention my trol blows a small puff on start up, and blows a little bit on take off but nothing on idle. The smoke is greyish white but mostly grey. I am told this could be injectors starting to go? not sure, won't have a chance to replace them until tax time probably.. sad face
Run LiquiMoly injector cleaner directly through the pump, method writen up in my build thread, drive it and then make the decision on what you do.
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Hey Gee,
I did that exact method you wrote up probably 2 months ago, and have used multiple litres of fuel conditioner since then. I will wait and see what my mechanic says when I go in for other repairs, but it's not looking like this car will stop breaking
@Jimmytrol55 are you running a san tool while driving these days?
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If you count a scanner app wth obd2 then yes all the time, i watch boost and engine load mostly
Tracking reported fault / trouble codes was my primary interest _ All good.
Just a note, I was in Maroochydore this morning and coming home I followed a CRD for around 5k and every time it took off, changed gear or just accelerated there was black smoke, don't know whether it was a local vehicle or not, haven't seen it before but damn I'm glad I'm not paying the fuel bill.
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As far as I can tell, no change at all. I'm still doing some testing & have filled 2 tanks whilst the mod is done along with EGR block.
In the new year I think I may take the EGR block out & see if it has been affecting fuel eco (I suspect it has, as I have read the egr system contains unburnt fuel in its recirculation thus burning it during cruise & down low)
Once I have done this, I will be able to compare my previous fuel eco compared to my old one pre EGR block to really see if the swirl valve mod has done anything, I will report once I have done a couple of tanks.
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Alrighty, a summary of things since my last post:
Exhaust manifold fixed
3" exhaust in
Fuel consumption has definitely gotten better hovering between 13.5L-14.5L around town. (huge improvement from my initial consumption issue)
Though I still have this annoying rattle/air gushing sound you can hear in cab when accelerating between 1500-2200rpm, I theorise it could be one of the IC pipes or perhaps the EGR pipe? I did not get the mechanics to block it at the exhaust side which was probably a mistake. Not sure how I can check for egr cracks without taking the turbo heat shield off. I have ordered some fabwitz IC pipes for both hot & cold side so after that goes in I will have to look closely at EGR, & perhaps block it on both sides when I have rear air con lines to deal with
Exhaust manifold fixed
3" exhaust in
Fuel consumption has definitely gotten better hovering between 13.5L-14.5L around town. (huge improvement from my initial consumption issue)
Though I still have this annoying rattle/air gushing sound you can hear in cab when accelerating between 1500-2200rpm, I theorise it could be one of the IC pipes or perhaps the EGR pipe? I did not get the mechanics to block it at the exhaust side which was probably a mistake. Not sure how I can check for egr cracks without taking the turbo heat shield off. I have ordered some fabwitz IC pipes for both hot & cold side so after that goes in I will have to look closely at EGR, & perhaps block it on both sides when I have rear air con lines to deal with
Thanks for posting - That’s some good eco results. 3” exhaust would def be helping out there. So have you done enough testing to make a definite decision on keeping EGR blocked & swirl control valve disabled?Alrighty, a summary of things since my last post:
Exhaust manifold fixed
3" exhaust in
Fuel consumption has definitely gotten better hovering between 13.5L-14.5L around town. (huge improvement from my initial consumption issue)
Though I still have this annoying rattle/air gushing sound you can hear in cab when accelerating between 1500-2200rpm, I theorise it could be one of the IC pipes or perhaps the EGR pipe? I did not get the mechanics to block it at the exhaust side which was probably a mistake. Not sure how I can check for egr cracks without taking the turbo heat shield off. I have ordered some fabwitz IC pipes for both hot & cold side so after that goes in I will have to look closely at EGR, & perhaps block it on both sides when I have rear air con lines to deal with
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No worries, the exhaust gives it a really nice note too under load.
Yep, i’ve done a fair amount of tanks now, check these logs for driving around town. (Besides one where I went to rubicon)
242kms
35.78L
=14.79 (EGR blocked)
517kms
78.41L
=15.09 (EGR blocked)
548.7
80L
=14.58 (EGR blocked)
598.5
77.76
=12.98 (EGR blocked + 3”) - this was 90% rural going 100kmph
83.46L
601.7
=13.87 (EGR blocked + 3”)
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