Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum banner
121 - 140 of 217 Posts

·
Registered
NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
Joined
·
1,728 Posts
Start with the simple thing first : rule out hoses.
Post #104 shows the circuit on a Di. I believe CRD is similar but maybe @Bidja can confirm.

If need be, and if you have an IC leak, I would start with a simple and cheap IC. Just google PATROL Y61 CRD Intercooler. Just make sure you can plug in the boost sensor. ex :

 

·
Registered
Was known as JT54_Y61 GU IV 08CRD Wag ST
Joined
·
1,926 Posts
Ahh I see, so a IC like PWR will do just fine then?

Any idea if this is the correct vacuum diagram for a 2010 crd?
Not sure as the vac hose from vacsol last port (opposite to electric plug connector) should go to vac pump supply pipe at back of alternator (per my 08CRD).

What I would do is as @geeyoutoo suggested, remove the intercooler and you will get a good visual of all vac hoses and replace all you trace. Supercheap / Autobarn/Repco any auto shop should stock 3mm silicon hose.

Boost side, PWR or most of any welded cooler will be fine. Make sure you have good boost hoses/clamped and check the o-ring under pressure sensor at front of your current stock cooler.

BTW with my stock 08 CRD, use to get 14.5 L/100km (back then).

What cost for work _ dyno etc?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #123 ·
Start with the simple thing first : rule out hoses.
Post #104 shows the circuit on a Di. I believe CRD is similar but maybe @Bidja can confirm.

If need be, and if you have an IC leak, I would start with a simple and cheap IC. Just google PATROL Y61 CRD Intercooler. Just make sure you can plug in the boost sensor. ex :

Thanks mate, i’ll put that on order soon after I get the final result from mechanics tomorrow (and will do hoses on weekend)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #124 ·
The di

Not sure as the vac hose from vacsol last port (opposite to electric plug connector) should go to vac pump supply pipe at back of alternator (per my 08CRD).

What I would do is as @geeyoutoo suggested, remove the intercooler and you will get a good visual of all vac hoses and replace all you trace. Supercheap / Autobarn/Repco any auto shop should stock 3mm silicon hose.

Boost side, PWR or most of any welded cooler will be fine. Make sure you have good boost hoses/clamped and check the o-ring under pressure sensor at front of your current stock cooler.

BTW with my stock 08 CRD, use to get 14.5 L/100km (back then).

What cost for work _ dyno etc?
Is there much to removing the IC besides taking two pipes off & a couple of bolts? I think I will buy some blue hose so for future ref I can see all hoses straight away.

not sure what that looks like but i’ll have a geeze when I get the ****box back tomorrow, and for fuel, thats probably what I was getting prior to this debacle. I have f all weight on my car too.

all up i’m looking at $550 for dyno, labour for test driving on freeway & transfer case flush (water in new transmission)
 

·
Registered
NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
Joined
·
1,728 Posts
Yep. Very simple. Just a few bolts and hoses. Take a photo before removing any bit or piece. identify the vacuum hoses too.
While you are at it, it might be worth removing the 'butterfly' element close to the firewall, and check the quantity of soat in the intake manifold at the level of the last two cylinders.
 

·
Registered
Was known as JT54_Y61 GU IV 08CRD Wag ST
Joined
·
1,926 Posts
Removal of cooler
First unplug (electric connector) from the pressure sensor (MAP sensor) at front of cooler and cable tie it out of the way for security and safe keeping). Can remove the sensor itself now or after cooler removal(keep it clean and take care of it).

Then undo the boost hose clamps at top next to cooler, then undo the 4 bolt securing cooler to frame and lift it off.
Straight fwd.

Cost OK.

With a bit of work the drive should improve.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #127 ·
Yep. Very simple. Just a few bolts and hoses. Take a photo before removing any bit or piece. identify the vacuum hoses too.
While you are at it, it might be worth removing the 'butterfly' element close to the firewall, and check the quantity of soat in the intake manifold at the level of the last two cylinders.
By intake manifold do you mean EGR? Kind of looks like two large holes?
Removal of cooler
First unplug (electric connector) from the pressure sensor (MAP sensor) at front of cooler and cable tie it out of the way for security and safe keeping). Can remove the sensor itself now or after cooler removal(keep it clean and take care of it).

Then undo the boost hose clamps at top next to cooler, then undo the 4 bolt securing cooler to frame and lift it off.
Straight fwd.

Cost OK.

With a bit of work the drive should improve.
Okay sounds good, if I run into any issues i’ll consult google or message here, i’m excited to get some work rolling on it to fix ****.
 

·
Registered
NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
Joined
·
1,728 Posts
No, not the EGR itself, although yes, you could also dismantle and clean it.

I was thinking of the element containing the air control valve actuator, and the swirl valve actuator (we call this element "butterfly box" in french.

If you remove it, it will clear the way to inspect the last two "holes" entering the air intake manifold.

A good way to inspect how much soat is "glued" there.

Line Schematic Rectangle Parallel Engineering
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #129 ·
No, not the EGR itself, although yes, you could also dismantle and clean it.

I was thinking of the element containing the air control valve actuator, and the swirl valve actuator (we call this element "butterfly box" in french.

If you remove it, it will clear the way to inspect the last two "holes" entering the air intake manifold.

A good way to inspect how much soat is "glued" there.

View attachment 546324
I see, doesn't make much sense to me without visually seeing it so I will just have to wait until then,

I have also just ordered a welded intercooler from ebay to replace my OEM leaky one, hopefully it arrives by the weekend but if not I will leave the hose replacements & such until the unit arrives.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #130 ·
Just got the car back, issue not fixed & fuel consumption is still ****ed. Guys couldn't reproduce issue but on the way back I copped the lag and lack of boost the whole way home so not sure what happened there.. Anything over 60kmph and the car really struggles. They did say they did not test another MAF in the car so... looks like I may have to fork out for that somehow and see if I have 2 faulty MAFs.
 

·
Registered
NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
Joined
·
1,728 Posts
lack of fuel, or lack of air is what makes a Patrol sluggish.
In your case, you definitely have too much fuel, and a poor motor efficiency.

What happens if you unplug your MAF ?
If it is the culprit, ECU will go into -no MAF mode - and will estimate the quantity of air with the RPMs info. It will under-estimate the amount of air, to protect your motor, but from what you say, it should be better than what you have if it is really your MAF which is faulty.

Lack of boost can also come from a leak in the vacuum hoses, or a faulty solenoid, or a faulty actuator. Also, if you have soat in the VN, it may prevents the vanes from closing. With the turbo vanes staying too open, you loose boost too. But if you get less boost and therefore less air, the ECU should ask less fuel to the IP, not more.

How old (mileage) are your injectors ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #132 ·
lack of fuel, or lack of air is what makes a Patrol sluggish.
In your case, you definitely have too much fuel, and a poor motor efficiency.

What happens if you unplug your MAF ?
If it is the culprit, ECU will go into -no MAF mode - and will estimate the quantity of air with the RPMs info. It will under-estimate the amount of air, to protect your motor, but from what you say, it should be better than what you have if it is really your MAF which is faulty.

Lack of boost can also come from a leak in the vacuum hoses, or a faulty solenoid, or a faulty actuator. Also, if you have soat in the VN, it may prevents the vanes from closing. With the turbo vanes staying too open, you loose boost too. But if you get less boost and therefore less air, the ECU should ask less fuel to the IP, not more.

How old (mileage) are your injectors ?
What worries me is if Diesel Tec couldn't find an issue then what hope do I have? I know 100% its underperforming.

I actually tried this a couple of weeks back - it caused the car to have absolutely no power what so ever and acceleration was completely flat

I see, I think maybe I should get a tillix boost control kit to bypass the possible faulty solenoid? am I correct in stating that?
From what I have read for a stock GU 15 psi is the best to set it to

They have 213,000kms on it, as far as the service book says (never replaced)
 

·
Registered
Was known as JT54_Y61 GU IV 08CRD Wag ST
Joined
·
1,926 Posts
What worries me is if Diesel Tec couldn't find an issue then what hope do I have? I know 100% its underperforming.
What did they check with engine apart from doing a dyno run, did they check MAF, TPS?

Would ring them and say problem remains.

Replace the intercooler, vac hoses as proposed, plus check for boost hose damage or faulty clamping.

As we said previously the MAF is an unknown so spend $70 and get a genuine MAF (cancel that out)
GENUINE AIR FLOW METER MAF AFM 226807S00A PATROL ZD30DDTI 3.0 GU SENSOR R51 GTR | eBay

Your current MAF did read on the low side).
MAF IGN: 0.31
MAF IDLE: 1.78
Recall that you were getting fault codes related to TPS and MAF (P0220 and P0100) respectively) did you mention these to Deisel Tec.
Nissan Patrol 2010 CRD fuel consumption

From what I have read for a stock GU 15 psi is the best to set it to
CRD 16.5 psi fine. Could try manual boost control (Tillix etc) but one thing at a time.

They have 213,000kms on it, as far as the service book says (never replaced)
I have 218,000ks on my stock injectors and recently tested good and within spec.

The Throttle body that @Phdv61 refers is most likely the Throttle Body located on LHS of eng (drivers side) under EGR assy / roughly opposite fuel filter. The boost hose (cold (edit) side) connects to it from intercooler. Remove hose and you could get an endoscope camera and check inside. For Info: my engine throttle body and inlet manifold after 190,000ks was relatively clean. The CRD throttle body only has one throttle plate and have attached a photo:
Automotive tire Wood Motor vehicle Gas Auto part


Edit: When you look at the throttle plate it moves against a spring return to this open position, place your finger against it and rotate it so plate closes and then should spring back freely (when released). There is a drive motor and sensor that sends signal back to ECM. Open aperture signal back (TPS) for air fuel ratio mix.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #134 ·
What did they check with engine apart from doing a dyno run, did they check MAF, TPS?

Would ring them and say problem remains.

Replace the intercooler, vac hoses as proposed, plus check for boost hose damage or faulty clamping.

As we said previously the MAF is an unknown so spend $70 and get a genuine MAF (cancel that out)
GENUINE AIR FLOW METER MAF AFM 226807S00A PATROL ZD30DDTI 3.0 GU SENSOR R51 GTR | eBay

Your current MAF did read on the low side).


Recall that you were getting fault codes related to TPS and MAF (P0220 and P0100) respectively) did you mention these to Deisel Tec.
Nissan Patrol 2010 CRD fuel consumption


CRD 16.5 psi fine. Could try manual boost control (Tillix etc) but one thing at a time.



I have 218,000ks on my stock injectors and recently tested good and within spec.

The Throttle body that @Phdv61 refers is most likely the Throttle Body located on LHS of eng (drivers side) under EGR assy / roughly opposite fuel filter. The boost hose (cold (edit) side) connects to it from intercooler. Remove hose and you could get an endoscope camera and check inside. For Info: my engine throttle body and inlet manifold after 190,000ks was relatively clean. The CRD throttle body only has one throttle plate and have attached a photo:
View attachment 546352

Edit: When you look at the throttle plate it moves against a spring return to this open position, place your finger against it and rotate it so plate closes and then should spring back freely (when released). There is a drive motor and sensor that sends signal back to ECM. Open aperture signal back (TPS) for air fuel ratio mix.
They did not check MAF or TPS, I mentioned they were low but within spec

Will look into getting another brand new MAF

I stupidly forgot to mention the codes for the MAF/TPS

I’ll get all the proposed work done next weekend, and may even try and take car for an injector leak test during the week if I have time.

I will be sure to check the throttle plate when I replace the IC. I checked today and saw a large amount of oil on both IC pipes
 

·
Registered
Was known as JT54_Y61 GU IV 08CRD Wag ST
Joined
·
1,926 Posts
Will look into getting another brand new MAF
Link I gave you was for genuine MAF $70. Bought same and works fine (post #133).

saw a large amount of oil on both IC pipes
How much is a large amount dripping out or smear with finger wipe?

Noted your engine is stock, maybe think about fitting a catch can (ProVent 200) _ $180 approx. Good investment if u are keeping Patrol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #136 ·
Link I gave you was for genuine MAF $70. Bought same and works fine (post #133).



How much is a large amount dripping out or smear with finger wipe?

Noted your engine is stock, maybe think about fitting a catch can (ProVent 200) _ $180 approx. Good investment if u are keeping Patrol.
Ebay one is safe??

decent amount dripping and weeping on the pipes, check pic I took today

yeah catch can is definitely on the list after the power issue is sorted
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Was known as JT54_Y61 GU IV 08CRD Wag ST
Joined
·
1,926 Posts
Ebay one is safe??
It is 5 pin MAF and box marked genuine. I have had no problems with same one.

decent amount dripping and weeping on the pipes, check pic I took today
Not an unusual amount of oil from what I see. Your cooler is certainly ready for replacement. When u install the new one, remove all the boost hose (inspect for damage), pull a rag through them to clean out oil residue and wipe mating turbo outlet, the alloy joiner on inlet side and ensure clamps are fitted securely. Re tighten clamps after a few days of driving. Be good to fit catch can at same time (see how you go).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #138 ·
It is 5 pin MAF and box marked genuine. I have had no problems with same one.



Not an unusual amount of oil from what I see. Your cooler is certainly ready for replacement. When u install the new one, remove all the boost hose (inspect for damage), pull a rag through them to clean out oil residue and wipe mating turbo outlet, the alloy joiner on inlet side and ensure clamps are fitted securely. Re tighten clamps after a few days of driving. Be good to fit catch can at same time (see how you go).
Okay i’ll order it now

is the inlet side the front left side? I looked today and they were also covered in oil/grease, definitely will take all those hoses out and clean. I’m also putting in a tillix kit so will be replacing all vacuum hoses involved in that, and will keep you posted once ive done that
 

·
Registered
Was known as JT54_Y61 GU IV 08CRD Wag ST
Joined
·
1,926 Posts
Okay i’ll order it now

is the inlet side the front left side? I looked today and they were also covered in oil/grease, definitely will take all those hoses out and clean. I’m also putting in a tillix kit so will be replacing all vacuum hoses involved in that, and will keep you posted once ive done that
Yes Inlet manifold on LHS of eng looking from the front.

Be good to first run with the stock VNT vacsol /ECM boost control. Then we can do back to back comparison using Tillix manual boost control.

CRD can run well with stock VNT vac solenoid.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #140 ·
Yes Inlet manifold on LHS of eng looking from the front.

Be good to first run with the stock VNT vacsol /ECM boost control. Then we can do back to back comparison using Tillix manual boost control.

CRD can run well with stock VNT vac solenoid.
Okay, so steps as follows?
Remove old IC & piping
Clean pipes & check for cracks
Run test on vehicle up & down highway and note down boost?
Then install tillix kit & perform tests again and compare?
 
121 - 140 of 217 Posts
Top