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Yes first VNT Vacsol operation. More to it than just boost mate. Not sure if trouble codes are still coming up but watch and record any. Compare run against current performance/driveability and the let us know how it goes. Do not rush it.

Not sure but has the fuel filter been changed for a while and also need a clean air filter plus clean the MAF sensor. Check the vacuum hoses and check actuator rod (up and down movement) with eng at idle, by changing the vac hose connection at actuator on turbo (hose on_rod up and hose off_rod down) ..

Remember to check the throttle plate movement against spring return of throttle body when u have the boost hose off (inlet manifold side). Check for any crud build up..
 

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
Yes first VNT Vacsol operation. More to it than just boost mate. Not sure if trouble codes are still coming up but watch and record any. Compare run against current performance/driveability and the let us know how it goes. Do not rush it.

Not sure but has the fuel filter been changed for a while and also need a clean air filter plus clean the MAF sensor. Check the vacuum hoses and check actuator rod (up and down movement) with eng at idle, by changing the vac hose connection at actuator on turbo (hose on_rod up and hose off_rod down) ..

Remember to check the throttle plate movement against spring return of throttle body when u have the boost hose off (inlet manifold side). Check for any crud build up..
Okay i’ll take it for freeway runs aswell and record stats

i cleaned the MAF today and cleaned air filter last week, the fuel filter and air filter are roughly 2000kms old

will do, i will video & take photos of its state
 

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Discussion Starter · #143 ·
Okay, checked over the rod again and it works perfectly, I changed the IC a couple of days ago and checked the throttle plate (but forgot to get a photo) and it was perfectly functional (stiff when pushing down) and found only a finger wipe worth of oil.

Did some testing for an hour today, driving on onramps & the freeway. I did notice boost dropping quite frequently on the flat.

It would go from 9-7-6-9-7-6 for most of the drive, and every time it would drop I could almost feel the car pull back? if that makes sense.

the gears especially switched late on the onramp, like very late. As I hit the freeway I was a gear behind & finally switched up as I hit 100.

If I drove at 2.5k (the revs at which the car changes gears comfortably at) revs on the onramp, it would not get close to 80, where as if I drove 3.5k revs (whilst it was having big delays changing gear) I could get to 90 before I hit the freeway.

Boost kit has arrived, but will not touch that until saturday so I can test more of the cars performance.
 

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Okay, checked over the rod again and it works perfectly, I changed the IC a couple of days ago and checked the throttle plate (but forgot to get a photo) and it was perfectly functional (stiff when pushing down) and found only a finger wipe worth of oil.
Good going and the throttle plate will feel stiff as you are closing it against the return spring force (but smooth operation).

Did some testing for an hour today, driving on onramps & the freeway. I did notice boost dropping quite frequently on the flat. It would go from 9-7-6-9-7-6 for most of the drive, and every time it would drop I could almost feel the car pull back? if that makes sense.
The boost should be stable but I have no experience with automatic transmission and possible impact.

Boost kit has arrived, but will not touch that until saturday so I can test more of the cars performance.
when you install Tillix, use new hose to hook up and leave the Vacsol plugged in and leave the hoses connected to vacsol and secure them out of the way (easy to change over for back to back comparison).
 

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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
Good going and the throttle plate will feel stiff as you are closing it against the return spring force (but smooth operation).


The boost should be stable but I have no experience with automatic transmission and possible impact.


when you install Tillix, use new hose to hook up and leave the Vacsol plugged in and leave the hoses connected to vacsol and secure them out of the way (easy to change over for back to back comparison).
Thanks Bidja, it's definitely fun going out of my comfort zone with cars.. i'm getting addicted haha

From what I have read some flucuations are OK, but I don't think it is meant to behave like that

Sounds good, the last part of the kit arrived yesterday so it will go in saturday, will aim for 15-17 psi then fiddle with spool up rate, after I have configured it as such I will do some testing on highway & freeway then get back to you with results
 

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Discussion Starter · #147 ·
Mine is changing at 3.5k, too, if I understood correctly what you’re talking about.
Yeah that's what i'm on about, and that seems quite high, mine would switch far earlier and would have alot more power behind it with each gear change. Right now it accelerates similar to how it felt when I blew a turbo hose at high loads (driving onto freeway)
 

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Okay, checked over the rod again and it works perfectly
Clarify:

So at idle, the rod is all the way up (the lever is touching grub screw stop)?

Check the vac and boost hoses again.

Is it sounding "dronie" when you push accelerator, like when you pull vac hose off actuator?
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
Clarify:

So at idle, the rod is all the way up (the lever is touching grub screw stop)?

Check the vac and boost hoses again.

Is it sounding "dronie" when you push accelerator, like when you pull vac hose off actuator?
Hi Bidja, been busy with the tillix haha!

With stock boost control, the rod was all the way up, and would drop if I pulled the hose off the diaphram, and no droning present.

I fitted the tillix kit and am currently in the process of setting it up, from what I have read and been told by lindsay, I should keep the needle valve all the way closed (by rotating clockwise) thus giving highest spoolrate, I have also adjusted it to 17 psi. I have been told to take it onto the freeway and see where my cruise boost sits, apparently it is meant to sit between 9-11 psi at 100km.

Is this correct? I do not know if I am going crazy but the car seems to drive better with the needle valve adjusted so its at the point where the rod on the turbo just falls a bees dick away from the actuator?

I have done so much reading on it, but still feel like i'm adjusting things wrong. Setup is 100% correct too.
 

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I fitted the tillix kit and am currently in the process of setting it up, from what I have read and been told by lindsay, I should keep the needle valve all the way closed (by rotating clockwise) thus giving highest spoolrate, I have also adjusted it to 17 psi. I have been told to take it onto the freeway and see where my cruise boost sits, apparently it is meant to sit between 9-11 psi at 100km.
Yes.

To initially set the Tillix to max boost (17psi), best with needle valve closed and then open needle to where the spool rate suits you.

As you mentioned:
I do not know if I am going crazy but the car seems to drive better with the needle valve adjusted so its at the point where the rod on the turbo just falls a bees dick away from the actuator?
Exactly. You are doing well.

No problem with your what you are doing.

Remember that the max boost setting is achieved when the engine is under load eg: driving up a hill (hauling) and engine does not go into limp mode.

Later we can add another needle valve downstream of the Tillix boost controller for improved VNT vane management.
Prefer you to first master what you are currently doing..
 

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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
Yes.

To initially set the Tillix to max boost (17psi), best with needle valve closed and then open needle to where the spool rate suits you.

As you mentioned:

Exactly. You are doing well.

No problem with your what you are doing.

Remember that the max boost setting is achieved when the engine is under load eg: driving up a hill (hauling) and engine does not go into limp mode.

Later we can add another needle valve downstream of the Tillix boost controller for improved VNT vane management.
Prefer you to first master what you are currently doing..
Okay awesome, glad to know I am on the right track.

I currently have the needle fully closed, will bang her up some hills tonight to obtain max 17 psi under load, then take it on the freeway to adjust needle to obtain 10 psi at 100.
 

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Okay awesome, glad to know I am on the right track.

I currently have the needle fully closed, will bang her up some hills tonight to obtain max 17 psi under load, then take it on the freeway to adjust needle to obtain 10 psi at 100.
Be a little carefull with 10 at 100, the road needs to be flat and a longish straight to see any settling, on a flat bit of highway mine regulate between 10 and 13psi which keeps my EGT at around 290c, which is where I want it, I get good fuel eco as well.
My 2 cents worth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #153 ·
Be a little carefull with 10 at 100, the road needs to be flat and a longish straight to see any settling, on a flat bit of highway mine regulate between 10 and 13psi which keeps my EGT at around 290c, which is where I want it, I get good fuel eco as well.
My 2 cents worth.
So are you saying to bring it higher or just ensure the freeway run is flat, long and continious so I can really dial in the 10 psi accurately? just want to be 100% sure I understand as I don't want to **** around haha
 

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Best to just set needle to where u see the lever just coming off stop and see what boost u get at 100kph on flat road (nom 12psi).

You may find that when you adjust needle the max boost may drop slightly so then u can close Tillix boost controller a little to regain your target max boost (16-17psi) - bit of juggle between the two.

Also CRD can handle max boost well,. I ran for some time with needle closed but you will find cruise boost may be 13-14psi
 

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So are you saying to bring it higher or just ensure the freeway run is flat, long and continious so I can really dial in the 10 psi accurately? just want to be 100% sure I understand as I don't want to **** around haha
Personally I would use 10psi as a minimum part of the flat highway cycle. yup
 

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Even on flat road, the cruise boost will drift with slightest variation of eng load, just try and get on easy going section little or no wind. I can monitor eng load so I use 50% (eng load) for observation. Comes easier with familiarity.
 

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Even on flat road, the cruise boost will drift with slightest variation of eng load, just try and get on easy going section little or no wind. I can monitor eng load so I use 50% (eng load) for observation. Comes easier with familiarity.
Yes, agree, that is what I passed onto him as well, I see 10-13psi. I use TPS% as a guide and cross reference to boost, I've posted data on this before. As I've said to him it needs to be setup on a long stretch of road so variables can be taken into account, but also I would set and maintain 10psi as minimum for a flat stretch, if he has cruise control it is even easier to get right because load becomes more stable.
 

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Just remember what is was like for me, difference is that I went manual boost control at the same time of remap (Harley 6 yrs back)
 
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