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Discussion Starter · #161 ·
Okay, after using both your advice I have gotten the tillix set up nicely. 17 psi max & needle is turned out 2 full turns (3 full turns for rod to drop from grub screw slightly) and boost is somewhere between 12-13 psi on freeway under roughly 75% engine load.

Now to keep figuring out where all my fuel is going haha.. I feel like power could still be better too but it is definitely a smoother more consistent car to drive now.

On a positive note I haven't gotten that annoying bouncing at 2500rpm since I put the tillix in :) we are getting somewhere!!
 

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Was known as JT54_Y61 GU IV 08CRD Wag ST
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Sounding good. Try winding the needle in to where the lever just touches stop screw, then go in 1/4 turn more.
Enjoy
 

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Discussion Starter · #163 ·
Continuation from the saga if anyone has any input. The car has gone back to being underpowered going to 80-100kmph, I double checked hoses and tillix and all seems well.

The engine is definitely running louder/rougher around the 2000rpm mark. I can identify a rough chattering coming from somewhere roughly where the injectors are during idle, and if you put the car in a enclosed area the sound really becomes prevalent. The car seems to slip up and down a gear if you hold it at 2k revs 60kmph too..

My biggest concern here is the rough sound acceleration, I am going to take it to a mechanic asap but wanted to see if there are any checks I can do myself, so any advice would be good.
 

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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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Rough noise coming from injectors ?

How old ( how many kms ) are they ?
A bad spray not only increases the fuel consumption, but, much worst, can act as a torch on your piston(s) surface and make... holes.
 

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Now that u have manual boost control working, when replacing exhaust manifold and new genuine gasket consider blocking EGR assy (use solid plates) at exhaust mainfold and at inlet manifold.

It is easier to to install the blanking plate without dump pipe fitted. Maybe a 3" exhaust with high flow catalytic converter and muffler.
 

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The manifold gasket is common as on these to go and manifolds warping. As above use it as an excuse to upgrade exhaust. I have no cat no mufflers just a hotdog on my 3 inch manta and it's not even that loud unless in high rpm
 

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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
Now that u have manual boost control working, when replacing exhaust manifold and new genuine gasket consider blocking EGR assy (use solid plates) at exhaust mainfold and at inlet manifold.

It is easier to to install the blanking plate without dump pipe fitted. Maybe a 3" exhaust with high flow catalytic converter and muffler.
I was thinking of blocking EGR, but worried about the claims of losing low down torque once doing so.. what's your personal experience with that?


The manifold gasket is common as on these to go and manifolds warping. As above use it as an excuse to upgrade exhaust. I have no cat no mufflers just a hotdog on my 3 inch manta and it's not even that loud unless in high rpm
So i've read, just sucks with how many repairs I have had to do to this car since I got it 6ish months ago. I was thinking of getting a Hi-Flow cat and resonator, is that much more noisier than stock cat and muffler?
 

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Discussion Starter · #170 ·
Unsure of the legalities but myself and others with crds I know don't run cats at all just resonators. Hopefully after these fixes she runs mint mate you've had a bad run!!!
Cheers mate, I think i'll go the legal route as don't want any trouble hahah.. I think I have spent upwards of 7 thou since getting this car repairing issues as they come up lol
 

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Yeah I know that feeling in 2 years I did injectors injector pump an exedy clutch with smf conversion then tune etc amongst other things it bloody adds up quick!!! Once they are sorted though i rekon its worth the money!! Iv driven tens of thousands of ks since all that with nothing much more than oil and filter changes
 

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I was thinking of blocking EGR, but worried about the claims of losing low down torque once doing so.. what's your personal experience with that?
Have not done back to back comparison and my build has changed significantly since EGR mod. Low down torque is acceptable for my CRD.

Others may comment on.
 

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I have difficulties to understand why blocking the EGR would reduce the low down Torque.
Using pure manual boost control however certainly generates down low negative effect, as EMP creates a reduction in airflow.
On a CRD, the pink mod allows to neutralize the EGR whilst keeping the ECU managing the VNT. So this is certainly an easy way to go (and test) for @Jimmytrol55 .
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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I have difficulties to understand why blocking the EGR would reduce the low down Torque.
Using pure manual boost control however certainly generates down low negative effect, as EMP creates a reduction in airflow.
On a CRD, the pink mod allows to neutralize the EGR whilst keeping the ECU managing the VNT. So this is certainly an easy way to go (and test) for @Jimmytrol55 .
It never has in my experience.
 

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Well, I drove the first 10 thousand kilometers on this engine, the consumption suits me perfectly, on 35 wheels, I have an automatic transmission with a heavy trailer and a speed of 100-120 km.h, the consumption is 14 liters, without load and a speed of about 100 km.h, the consumption is 9.5 liters in the combined cycle

Tire Wheel Vehicle Land vehicle Sky
 

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I was thinking of blocking EGR, but worried about the claims of losing low down torque once doing so.. what's your personal experience with that?
I have a completely stock CRD apart from an EGR block, pink wire mod and a MagicBox. I ran it for a while with the EGR blocked and pink wire mod prior to finalising the MB installation. There was no noticeable difference in low down torque or fuel consumption, with or without the EGR blocked.
 

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I was thinking of blocking EGR, but worried about the claims of losing low down torque once doing so.. what's your personal experience with that?




I blocked my egr with no hole and pink wire mod about 3 weeks ago on my crd. I noticed a big improvement on responsiveness and low down torque, however at the same time I removed manifold for matching as it was warped and replaced the studs and gasket so can’t exactly pin point it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #178 ·
I have a completely stock CRD apart from an EGR block, pink wire mod and a MagicBox. I ran it for a while with the EGR blocked and pink wire mod prior to finalising the MB installation. There was no noticeable difference in low down torque or fuel consumption, with or without the EGR blocked.
Okay, a few interesting things have just happened. I checked if my swirl thingy was buggered like so in this video and it was infact closed during idle. So I removed the hose thats in charge for it opening and closing the vanes.

I also blocked off the EGR whilst I was at it, and god that was a ****ter of a job... got very sweaty in this melbourne weather. I cant say for sure but the car feels like its lighter and faster in a way? I attribute that to any gained power & torque from these mods.. I could be on the piss though saying that. One thing to note though, I have a weird high pitched buzzing/whine under acceleration now though? not sure what has caused that..
 

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Some will preach that disabling the swirl valves and/or blocking the EGR gives you more power/torque, but I am yet to see a dyno result proving that.

If you read the through ESM and understand exactly when/how the swirl valves and EGR operate, you will also come to the conclusion that it it impossible for either to reduce engine performance.

What DOES make a difference is cleaning the intake, since all that gunk chokes the engine and lets less air in, but if you didn’t clean the inlet manifold, the extra power is all in your head.
 

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Okay, a few interesting things have just happened. I checked if my swirl thingy was buggered like so in this video and it was infact closed during idle. So I removed the hose thats in charge for it opening and closing the vanes.

I also blocked off the EGR whilst I was at it, and god that was a ****ter of a job... got very sweaty in this melbourne weather. I cant say for sure but the car feels like its lighter and faster in a way? I attribute that to any gained power & torque from these mods.. I could be on the piss though saying that. One thing to note though, I have a weird high pitched buzzing/whine under acceleration now though? not sure what has caused that..
That high pitch whine is likely an exhaust leak, bad seal / warped manifold or more likely the egr where you blocked it.
 
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