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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
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After painting, I cleaned all the contact surfaces and prepared them for assembly.

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Meanwhile I sent the rest of the parts after sandblasting to electro galvanizing, cataphoresis and powder coating. (I also had prepared my front radius arms for the future - need to change polyurethane bushes for the OEM ones)

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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
All screws and the brackets that have not been replaced with new ones have also been renovated. I sent them for de-galvanizing and galvanizing again with yellow passivation.

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Since the water pump pulley was missing on the engine, I have made it according to the dimensions of the original one, which was kindly lent to me by my mate.

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While waiting for new parts to arrive, I clean all other parts that comes back inside the engine.




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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
Almost at the same time, the refurbished head arrived and all new original engine parts that were ordered.
I ordered a lot of new parts, from a set of engine gasket, to new bolts and nuts for connecting rods, bolts for engine head, new screws for the exhaust manifold, engine mounts, bearings and piston rings, water pump, thermostat, ind ...

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to be continued ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Then I started with assembling the engine.
I bought an assembly lube and a plastic gauge, to make sure that everything fits together perfectly an that there is enough lubrication for the first start.
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When assembling the Idler gear, I found myself in a considerable dilemma as I wasn’t sure where the lubrication hole needs to be pointed. I turned to you, the members of this forum, for help and got the answer that I was looking for so that I was able to continue working.

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
Then I attached the engine head to the engine block.

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I used a new set of the engine head bolts

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I numbered the screws for easier tightening order.

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When installed an injectors and glow plugs, I apply some aluminium grease just in case, so if it needed to remove them in the future, they will be going out a lot easier.

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Glow plugs are from Bosch, because at the moment Partsouq didn't have the OEM ones.

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Ready to put the injectors in.

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Assembling the front timing case and valve rocker arm.

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
It goes well together :cool:

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After galvanizing the radiator hose holder, I soaked it in liquid rubber. It looks like brand new!

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Putting the oil pan back on the engine.

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Assembling fuel pump gear

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I also bought original alternator, power steering and AC compressor belts.
One of the missing parts on the engine was also the alternator and AC compressor. I've bought brand new alternator from ebay (100A) and for AC compressor I took the one from my RD28T engine and just modify a bracket to suit.

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Discussion Starter · #107 · (Edited)
Almost done!


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I even had a valve cover sticker made to make the engine look like the day it was made in the factory. :cool:


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Installation of the rear main oil seal and flywheel (I also replace the bush pilot in center of crankshaft).

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
Considering that I don't expect excessive horses from the engine, I opted for a serial clutch set. The only thing that I change is clutch disk with ceramic pads on it.


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To be continued...
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
Let's move on.
I want to install turbo on this engine, just to be a little faster. So I've bought a brand new T3 / T4 hybrid turbine.

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Yes, it's China made, and yes, it doesn't necessarily mean it's a totally crap.
I send the my new turbine rebalanced before installation, because that is the only major drawback of these turbines.
Sometimes it can be superficially balanced, and we all know where that usual leads ...
I chose this turbo because of a fast spool on a low rpm and the cost of it of course.

(Turbine wheel: Exducer 55.8mm, Inducer 64.8mm
Compressor wheel: Exducer 76.0mm, Inducer 52.7mm)

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The exhaust manifolds we can buy on Ebay, usual don’t fit our “European” cars, as they are mostly made for right-hand drive cars.
Our, left-hand drive has booster brake and brake master cylinder in the way so it doesn't fit, and that's why it is easiest to make an new exhaust manifold.
My friend already had a computer drawing of flange for his project, I only slightly adjusted it to my spec.
I had made a flange out of 15mm thick iron, cut out on a laser.

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Welding elbows and T-pieces from which I will weld the exhaust manifold.

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Cut to exact length, welded together and ground all welds

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I also made a base on which the flange is screwed so that it does not bend too much during welding.

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Welded turbine flange.


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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
I also welded brackets to the manifold, so that I could install the original thermal protection on it.

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I simply cut a rectangle in the heat shield so I could attach the turbine.

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The difference between the compressor housing. Right one is from the RD28T engine.

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Finished welding of the exhaust manifold

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The inlet to the exhaust manifold is perfectly aligned with the openings at the head outlet. A compromise had to be made between the round and square hole.

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Here it is seen that the round hole closes the exit on the head

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The square hole, however, is difficult as far as the transition is concerned then to the round end of the T-pieces that I used to just build the manifold.

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Manifold then went to the sandblasting

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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
And to machining the contact surface, so that is completely flat.

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I protected the exhaust manifold with 600 °C paint, which still sticks to the surface after 5000 kilometers driven :cool:

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Before I installed the oil pan, I drilled a hole in the engine block for the return the oil from the turbine.
I made a hole in the same place where the original TD42 turbo engine has a oil return.
The oil feed for lubricating the turbine is also taken in the same place as the original turbo TD42 engine had.

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And the final look of the finished product.

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to be continued...
 

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
if we continue the story...

It was time to brought the engine from my home workshop to my mates shed.

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Both together.
The gearbox has also undergone a minor overhaul, namely the replacement of all oil seals, dust cuffs, new thrust bearing, sleeve clutch release and all springs.
I also replaced socket assy for transmission shift control and clutch operating cylinder.
And of course a good clean and lick of paint fot the end.

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It was time to remove the old fella.


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The difference in size between 2.8 and 4.2 gearbox.

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New gearbox in place.

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Then it was necessary to make a plate for the correct position of the right bracket. I reworked the original engine mount.

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The motor had to be put in place for precise fabrication and removed again for welding the engine mount.


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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
The engine in its final place.

I must say, it was not as easy as I thought it will be to swap the engine. There were some problems with setting up the engine at correct position, I had to modificate the radiator bracket a bit and change the oil filters with the smaller ones, if I want to mount the new starter motor (which I didn't have, when I purchase the engine and transmission). As for electricity, I didn't find it so demanding as I got a lot of information on this forum.

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Then it was necessary to slightly modify the existing exhaust pipe and make a new downpipe with an exhaust temperature sensor.
In the end, I wrapped it with heat wrap to protect the surroundings from the high temperature. For the same reason, I also dressed the turbine with a turbo blanket.



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I also replaced the radiator with a brand new, three-core copper-brass radiator. Unfortunately I don't have a picture of it.
It was also necessary to replace the radiator shroud.
(left 2.8 shroud, right 4.2 shroud)

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Yes, there is still a quite of work to do. The fuel pump needs a little more attention with that fuel screw and I want to put the top mount Intercooler on top of it.
EGT are running sweet (so far, I have managed to bring a fully loaded car (3300kg) uphill on the highway to 490°C).
There is no black soot behind me, which shows that I can add more fuel, but I would still prefer an intercooler first,
so as not to raise the exhaust gas temperature unnecessarily. And I'm currently running on 10 psi. Thinking to boost it up to 14 psi, when it's all done. It should be still on a safe side, wright? :)

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For the end some exhaust sound and soot - or better - no soot (the rattling noise coming from my brake pads) :ROFLMAO:
 

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Discussion Starter · #115 · (Edited)
Little update on my Patrol.
I added switch to a rear tailgate at the back, witch turn on my LED interior lights in my "kitchen and drawers" setup.
I also added a dimmer switch, so that I can either turn off the lights completely, or adjust the brightness intensity of the LED lights as needed.
I used a switch from a wrecked car which I found at a local junk yard and I think that this upgrade will make my life on the road a bit easier.
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