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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Long story short.
05 GU left in dry storage for short period due to now having work car. Plan to sell post RWC the beast is all good at this stage.
Go to take for airbag recall no boost (well 5psi) no guts cant climb hill.

Get it home pull it apart, replace some vac hoses (coz they looked ifee)
Reset Dawes, stretch spring incase, VNT works turbo spindle spins on the intake side.
put back together ensuring all is tight. Nudda zip ziltch same as before.


Anyone got any ideas before I spend some $$$$$
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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If it was all good before you put it away, with no hint of a problem and it's no good now, this would indicate that something happened during that time, which would also indicate that it is something perished/split/shrunk/expanded/stuck/etc.

Put a bit of hose on the VNT and suck like hell and see whether the arm rises fully, or hook the vacuum line directly to the VNT and start it up and see if the arm has risen, also give it a few brisk revs to build up and you should be able to get 12-15psi as swoop past 3000rpm.

I would also double check the clamps and hoses to and from the IC for splits/blowouts/looseness/etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks GU2.
I have tightened all clamps. replaced both "vac" lines that perish under the IC (one at a time to ensure correct way).
VNT arm rises and falls with the dawes valve manual adjuster.
Ill go have a play with the bypass trick and come back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
GU2..... So I bypassed the DAWES (with a new vac hose, taking vac direct from green canister to the VNT, started car and revved (not driven) swooping past 3k.... again Nadda zip zitch nuffin.............
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yeah that stays even with the dawes, just needs plumbing back in
 

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OK, with the engine idling take note of the actuator position, then bypass the boost control solenoid and check again. If the actuator pulls up much further than before you have a faulty solenoid. You should also have boost again with the solenoid bypassed.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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OK, with the engine idling take note of the actuator position, then bypass the boost control solenoid and check again. If the actuator pulls up much further than before you have a faulty solenoid. You should also have boost again with the solenoid bypassed.
But if he's taken the vacuum directly to the VNT as I suggested he should have already bypassed the solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ok im lost....ive tried it all.... considering the dawes bypasses the solenoid it cant be that.
i injected 8psi into the lines and squirted soapy water only minimal leak was dawes valve, so i used teflon tape to fix that....still have the same issue.

Went for a drive. 6psi at 80k 3700rpm thats the most I can get out of it.....

Any more thoughts ??
 

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If your absolutely confident that there is no leakage in the system, particularly on the vacuum side, as said it would need to be a serious leak on the boost side to have this effect. Can you remove inlet hose and pull the front of the turbo off? have a look at the compressor wheel and see how easy it is to spin.

Something I forgot to ask was when you apply vacuum to the VNT by mouth does the arm stay at the top when you seal the pipe, either by putting your tongue on the end of the tube or clamping it?
 

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Did you get under the car and check the vacuum hoses at the vacuum pump itself?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I will never say 100% coz it has to be something. but yes I am very sure.
I have removed the front of the turbo off and it free spins with no problems at all. (that was amongst the first things I did as my poopa puckerd).
As for holding the valve open. Ill double check but I am pretty sure it stays up.

Thanks for your help GU2...
 

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You should be able to pull 26"Hg minimum on a vac gauge at idle connected to the hose coming out from under the IC, if you can't get at least that there is a serious leak somewhere behind.

You can pick up an ell cheapo 40mm industrial vac gauge from Pirtek etc quite easily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The VNT holds up with tongue depressed against suck tube.

And check. The VAC tubes are intact and undamaged.
 

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Sounds like turbo removal is getting closer, double check there are no restrictions in the throttle body, IC etc, then maybe remove the dump pipe and check the back of the turbo is in good nick, if the vanes were seized (not that uncommon but you won't see them) the arm won't move or won't move freely, you have checked that but have a look for thick deposits on the exhaust side of the turbo and excessive float.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Repco = $40 for a vac tester and the test results are:
Idle @~7-750
Solenoid Area: -27
POst Green valvey thing: -28
Inlet at butterfly valves: 0


EDIT: I also need to add that this is with the manual needle valve fully closed. upon opening
the needle valve the reading drops significantly depending on position...
I have removed the throttle body and cleaned it out just incase. the flaps are free (hehehehe)
 

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But if he's taken the vacuum directly to the VNT as I suggested he should have already bypassed the solenoid.
GU2 bongo hasn't mentioned a needle valve in his setup. If that's the case, the boost solenoid is still relevant as per this pic...

http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=306122&stc=1&d=1456025664

GU2..... So I bypassed the DAWES (with a new vac hose, taking vac direct from green canister to the VNT, started car and revved (not driven) swooping past 3k.... again Nadda zip zitch nuffin.............
As he said here, he took vacuum from the green canister. Therefore if he still has the boost solenoid in the system it could be limiting the vacuum supply from that point on.
 

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GU2 bongo hasn't mentioned a needle valve in his setup. If that's the case, the boost solenoid is still relevant as per this pic...

http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=306122&stc=1&d=1456025664



As he said here, he took vacuum from the green canister. Therefore if he still has the boost solenoid in the system it could be limiting the vacuum supply from that point on.
He does have a needle valve.
The green canister he is most likely talking about is used in both the factory and manual control. Just in different locations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Definitely have a needle valve....... and mention of green is related to the damper... I just had
brain farts happening today as a result of this issue.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Repco = $40 for a vac tester and the test results are:
Idle @~7-750
Solenoid Area: -27
POst Green valvey thing: -28
Inlet at butterfly valves: 0


EDIT: I also need to add that this is with the manual needle valve fully closed. upon opening
the needle valve the reading drops significantly depending on position...
I have removed the throttle body and cleaned it out just incase. the flaps are free (hehehehe)
Now I'm getting confused, what is the vacuum at the main line that comes out from under the front of the IC direct from the vacuum pump?, this will tell you what is being generated by the vacuum pump, as long as there are no leaks below the test point. This one you should get minimum 26"Hg or -0.9bar, if you have that vacuum at that point then there is something wrong with the plumbing past that or the turbo has an issue.

GU2 bongo hasn't mentioned a needle valve in his setup. If that's the case, the boost solenoid is still relevant as per this pic...

http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=306122&stc=1&d=1456025664



As he said here, he took vacuum from the green canister. Therefore if he still has the boost solenoid in the system it could be limiting the vacuum supply from that point on.
Hmmm! that schematic looks very familiar, but I never did it with the solenoid as marked in that particular one. I always recommend bypassing the solenoid.
 
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