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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,
Had auto hubs on the dual cab, which started to sound like they were locking/unlocking when under load. Was only when I had been hittting the soft **** for a while and the diff was warming up. At first I thought I had run over a stick on the beach and had flicked up and hit the bottom of my ute.
So I changed out the autos for some nissan man hubs, and had been all good til today, still doin it. Only once the diff warms up?
I have been in low range crawlin over some steep **** in SA and never did it so its not my centre, not sure if the bloke has given me all the right gear for the change over!
Need a break down of man vs auto diagram.
Are the circlips different?
Need some help one of our beaches is 22km long and soft when it starts doin it Im not sure Im going to make the other end and that means Im increasing my chances of a toyota pulling me out which is not acceptable!!
Cheers
Zappa:p
 

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Discussion Starter #2
What noone got any ideas?? Are the circlips different?
Zappa
 

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I saw some exploded views in a thread about 2 months back. Search using words like "COnversion" or "changing over from auto to"
 

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"Toxic Personality"
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If your wheel bearing arent tight enough the hub only grabs the outside of the ring gear, makes a clunk-ding noise and trops out of 4x4 as the ends of the cogs disengage. . . . if you pull your hub off, check if the gear plate that slides on your cv has rounded teeth on it. . . . .
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The wheel bearings are fine, only checked them a while back.
It doesnt seem to do it when I turn, only when Ive been going bfor a bit and the diff is working hard.
It was doing it with the auto hubs which is why I got rid of them and put the manual ones on. I think I maybe missing something
Zappa
 

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Did you get the hub spacer and steel bush with your hubs, the circlip(snap ring) to answer your previous question is thinner with the auto hubs, as the groove in the end of the axel is a little wider than the one used with the auto hubs. I used 1.5mm snap ring (that is what nissan had) and it gave me .2mm axel endfloat. Max allowed is .4mm as per my manual.
 

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"Toxic Personality"
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good thought jacket!!!!
I was going to say cv's, does it do it more When you turn ?????
wheel bearings are almost impossible to get right esp on a gu. this is the gear that slides onto the end of the cv and that your hub engages on. -as can be seen, this one has minor wear on the teeth, and most do -since most hubs only seem to grab half the tooth on the gear.

if your gears look like that and your wheel bearings aren't PERFECT it will make horrid noises and sometimes drop out of 4x4.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yep Im pretty sure thats about what mine look like, and I know what your saying about the wheel bearings, have been cleaned and repacked after inspection before a recent 4k trip and then were checked prior to leaving and needed adjustment. I think it maybe cos Im to scared to tighten them up anymore to align the next hole!!
So Jacket whats the guts, can I buy thenew parts or do I need to buy whole setup? The manual hubs were off a gq and the fella I got it off is pretty severe on his cars!!
Cheers
Zappa
 

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"Toxic Personality"
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So Jacket whats the guts, can I buy thenew parts or do I need to buy whole setup? The manual hubs were off a gq and the fella I got it off is pretty severe on his cars!!
Assume the hub is ok. . . they are made stronger than the carrier gear that slides on the CV deliberately. Just check the inside of the hub where it engages that the splines aren't bent over or rounded off too much. (ill go take a photo now for you so you know what to look for. . . )

I would just buy the carrier that slides onto the CV, the same one pictured above(if its worn off its edges). Also i recommend going to a GQ style twin nut and bent lock tab setup for wheel bearings on all GU's. . . my mechanic sells them as a kit! (after i asked him to convert mine, we experimented, he saw how good they worked even with 37's, and started making em), Sooo much better than the 2plates and screws.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The photos would be great. I have always had dramas with the wheel bearings, but the 95 gq coil cab I had before the GU dual cab still had the 2 plates and locking screws. Always not quite right.
Zappa
 

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First pic is with the hub unlocked, you can see the hub is in good condition. . . . that gear is the one that meshes with the one in the previous post with the burred teeth.
DSC00648.jpg

Second photo is with the hob locked, the hub simply pushes that cog onto that gear that slides onto the CV immediately behind the curclip. the wheel is then connected to the CV. and we have drive! -well hopefully.:p
DSC00650.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Im pretty sure when they where all cleaned up the inner was fine, having thought about it the outer ring(on the axle) i thought it was more like a synchro!!
Ill have to have another look
Zappa
 
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