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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, im less than unimpressed! I made the major investment of upgrading my TD42 GUII with a PWR fully alloy radiator in the hope that it would sort out any cooling issue's i may have.
As it turns out, 2 years down the track, the PWR has developed leaks where the header tanks meet the core's! My friendly local radiator tech and PWR agent has informed me that the Nulon coolant that i have used has caused corrosion on these joint's. A 2 part epoxy was applied and with a wave and good luck quote, i was away again! I have no idea how long the epoxy will hold for and am reluctant to travel any great distance in case it let's go. My question's are....has any one else experienced this with this particular brand of radiator and could it be a welding/manufacturing fault when built? Also, has anyone experienced any negative corrosion type result's from use of this particular brand of coolants?
I simply don't have $1200.00 too splash around again on a new rad that i assumed was a top quality product and the chances of either manufacturers of these product's helping me out would be very limited i assume! Not happy Jan!
 

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nissan
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Ah yes very interesting.
In a moment of stupidity a while back I decided I would start running coolant, I used Nulon.
Previously I had only ever run Redline water wetter as it has corrosion inhibitor in it.
Anyway, within months of changing, my PWR radiator had coolant running out of it everywhere.
I checked stray current at .633v. So as it was sitting there I poured a bottle of water wetter in it and the current halved. I have since drained the system and gone back to water and water wetter only, plus for other reasons a few bottles of chemi-weld.
All back to normal now.
So no more Nulon or any other coolant for me.

Marty.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Marty, Out of curiosity, how did you patch the leaks?
And perhaps PWR should attach notes too there product detailing types of coolants to use or avoid?
 

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Chemi-weld fixed them, aswell as a few other cracks in my 470k km old setup.
I can't recommend just running water and Redline water wetter enough.
 

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nissan patrol gu
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Not Certain Nulon's the problem.....but would ask it the PWR aluminium radiator was electrically bonded on installation ?
Bonding is used on aircraft and caravans etc to eliminate possible corrosion from spurious or stray elect charges...... you might have a zero ground on fitment, however during travel, static charges can be induced from dust, wind water, and all sorts of other influences.

As for coolant/inhibitor, I see most stick to Nissan genuine.

My 2 bobs worth
 

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I have a Aussie desert cooler alloy radiator in mine. when I bought it, there was a note with it. Recommending holden coolant to be used. Holden use AC Delco, so that's what run. Your story has crossed my mind a few times and I hope mine doesn't end up the same. Good luck
 

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I checked the stray voltage on my PWR radiator, 0.05v which is the maximum stray voltage that PWR will cover under warranty. I also only ever use genuine Nissan coolant and test the ph of the coolant (measure of corrosion) every 20k service and flush and change every 2 years. I might be a bit paranoid but its been 5 years now and not an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the heads up guy's.
Rad is now bonded securely to chassis.
Too measure stray coolant voltage are you doing it bye putting one probe to earth other into coolant with multi meter set on DC volts? And is it the lower the voltage the better result?
 

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Pwr do this all the time every time they have a fault they blame coolant or most commonly used the stray current, had afew mates go through this, everytime they have offered to fix it then state if I t happen again tbey will wipe there hands of it.
For what hou pay they wont care. There idiots and would never get my business.
 

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If you have stray current and it killed your radiator then it's not their problem. No radiator brand will give warranty against stray current. I have an ADRAD and as part of its warranty a radiator place is meant to install and test for stray current, then sign it every 12 months.
 

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Nulon coolant ate through my timing case cover where the water jacket goes through it. Went to water wetter and haven't had a problem since. That was over 12 months ago.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Not Certain Nulon's the problem.....but would ask it the PWR aluminium radiator was electrically bonded on installation ?
Bonding is used on aircraft and caravans etc to eliminate possible corrosion from spurious or stray elect charges...... you might have a zero ground on fitment, however during travel, static charges can be induced from dust, wind water, and all sorts of other influences.

As for coolant/inhibitor, I see most stick to Nissan genuine.

My 2 bobs worth
Due to the fact that many coolants are not compatible with each other I have never strayed from the genuine Nissan coolant in 14 years, touch wood, like q8160, it's still going strong.

Bonding and stray current, I went through a huge exercise on this with my alluminium boat earlier this year.
 

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Thanks for the heads up guy's.
Rad is now bonded securely to chassis.
Too measure stray coolant voltage are you doing it bye putting one probe to earth other into coolant with multi meter set on DC volts? And is it the lower the voltage the better result?
X2 - how do you measure it and (dumb question coming...) where does it come from? Bad earth?
 

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I've always used the genuine Nissan coolant. It's apparently tailored specifically for the metals used in a ZD30 head. I don't know much about the TD42 head though. I don't know anything about the PWR radiators either. I imagine a product tailored for the average alloy head wouldn't work well for the average steel head.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
q8160..curious as too how you measured for voltages in your coolant? Was it by using multi meter set too DC volts, with 1 probe to earth & the other in the coolant?
Cheers..:)
 

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Bonding

q8160..curious as too how you measured for voltages in your coolant? Was it by using multi meter set too DC volts, with 1 probe to earth & the other in the coolant?
Cheers..:)
Hi PATROLLABULL
Bit hard to look for stray voltages whilst your vehicle is on the move..... however anything is possible if you had the gear.
What I am saying is BONDING is/has to be accomplished if fitting a aluminium radiator.

A bonding check is accomplished by using a Mega or a LOW reading ohm meter.

Hopefully PWR would have a bonding lug or lugs incorporated in their build. This allows a path for any stray EMF to pass to earth.....otherwise electrolytic corrosion may or will occur.

A bonding jumper is not just a bit of wire with a couple of crimped jugs and a couple of bolts to connect the radiator to a chassis earth.

Google is a good start to what is basically needed.

With your corrosion deal -- I'd be asking the one who fitted it a few questions..

Cheers and good luck
 

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Bonding

Working with boats ... bonding checks a multi meter was also used and a current test HAD to be less than 5 milliamps..... checked with a digital multimeter.

My 2 bobs worth
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Q8160, Don't sweat fella...its well bonded now. Hasnt been in last 2 yrs...i had no idea it had to be... Has crimped tinned lugs both ends..wire is flexible tinned 6mm2..
 
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