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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am turboing a TD42 (they never sold turbo'd ones here in UK) Im taking the oil supply from the gallery in the LH engine mount bracket, but i need to plumb in the return. I presume there is a reason why people don't connect this to the brake pump return, so I will fit a barb on the sump.

I'm guessing its not possible to do this without taking the sump off. Engine is out at the moment. Does it matter if it goes on the side or on that horizontal bit of sump? What size should it be, about 15mm?



Thanks
 

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Hi there!
There are stock TD42Ts in the UK, 'coz I've got one! Jap import.
You might be lucky and find one that was imported here back 10 years ago that has terminal body rot by now and do a heart transplant.
It's probably going to be an auto box.
 

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On my low mount DTS manifold i put mine further forward in the middle of the indented section and up higher.
Leave enough room for the hose and clamp to go on
Lined up perfect
I also put one in for my Provent catch can drain forward of the turbo drain
 

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You can do it without removing the sump, apparently they use some sort of epoxy.
I removed mine anyway and used silver solder.
It's probably a good idea to replace the sump gasket (use genuine only) and front and rear main seals while you have it in bits. Also repaint the sump, in matte black to help it radiate heat.

Now where to put it... See the bracket that goes to the bell housing...
it goes as high as you can get it between the 2nd and 3rd sump bolts forward of that bracket. (your little circle you have drawn is below what I'd call the 1st bolt.)
 

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I think (hope) i am on the same page as Mike.

Auto part
(excuse rough drawing)
This is where MTQ put mine, just forward of the fifth, toward the sixth bolt, about 20-25 mm down, so the oil runs out, unrestricted onto the splash pan.This should also be directly below your turbo oil outlet,

IMHO it would be silly not to take the sump off and do properly, while the donk is out, along with Mike's other suggestions.
 

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I was told from a turbo specialist here that the oil feed between the engine mount is not a good supply as its not regulated oil. I ran mine from an adapter from the oil pressure switch.

I ran my return line teed into the vac pump return line. Many say this is not a good idea. So I have checked with 3 turbo installers now for piece of mind & all 3 said its fine to run the return there as long as its got some fall. So far so good.

Seeing as tho you got your engine out you might as well run it to the sump. I have herd of only one case of it being torn off buy a stick so pretty unlikely for that to happen i guess.
 

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United Fuel Injection say use the one near the engine mount. just as good as off the oil pressure switch. they do say not to use the one near the alternator though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all your help. Was being lazy not wanting to take sump off, as I would imagine the gasket is a pain, and is bound to rip. Is it possible to get sump off without breaking the gasket? if so does it stay on the sump or on the block? How much are new gaskets?

Doubt I'll change the crank seals etc, they weren't leaking and engine has only 140,000 kms on it.

So this is where I will put the stub. I will get it TIG welded.
 

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UK-Y60
That's the spot where mine is
As for the gasket i bought a new one before i took the sump off but did not have to use it
Original was rubber 2 piece (New nissan ones are not) 1 piece stayed on the block and 1 piece stayed on the sump
Left the 1 on the block peeled the one off the sump without damage
Degreased sump
Brazed fittings in
Painted sump
Used Permatex No3 on gasket
No leaks
Don't tighten bolts to tight
After a week of use check sump bolts again
PS put a sheet of plastic on floor as oil will drip out of the block when the sump is off
 

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the drain position totally depends on type of turbo set up "either high or low mount"
my coil cab ute runs a modified turbo glide high mounted T28 and drains back via the vac pump drain for the alternator
the set up I made for my S1 mav ute is low mount and i fitted the drain to the sump about where you have put the black circle
I didn't want to remove the sump as engine was still fitted so all I done was drilled the hole with a grease coated drill bit and welded a nut on the side of the sump then screwed the brass fitting into the nut, remember put the drain as high up the sump as possible, so you get very little chance of oil splashing up and affecting the drain cycle
personally I would not use the vac pump for a drain on a low mounted turbo ( to high up)

also another thing to think of is what type of turbo floating journal bearing or ball bearing, as both flow different amounts of oil
journal = more oil flow
ball bearing = less oil flow as there also water cooled
 

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Good point Tassie, should have mentioned mines high mount & BB. Yes don't tee the drain in if its low mount.
 

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My returns in the same spot as Mike H's. And bronze welded fitting.
Dont drill the sump with it on you'll get some filings and swarf in the sump no matter what. Take it off to do it properly and replace with a new gasket. Mines never leaked.
I didn't want super hot oil from the turbo going into the back of the alternator.
 

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Two things,
1. You have the motor out so its a good chance to check the internal condition of the sump and clean the oil pick up if necessary while its off. A gasket is not expensive.
The oil drain on mine is between bolts 5 and 6 from the back.

2. You said you dont want to replace the crank seals but now is the perfect time to replace at least the rear main seal. You will curse youself later if it leaks and you have to drop the box etc for a part that costs $60 and is now right there in front of you.
Easy now, hard later.

cheers
 

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My returns in the same spot as Mike H's. And bronze welded fitting.
Dont drill the sump with it on you'll get some filings and swarf in the sump no matter what. Take it off to do it properly and replace with a new gasket. Mines never leaked.
I didn't want super hot oil from the turbo going into the back of the alternator.
i beg to differ I have done it more than once, and also had a professional thread repair business come to my house and drill and tap fitting on a few engines for turbo oil feeds I use the grease coated drill bit and so does the thread repair bloke

it's a drill bit's nature to send excess material away from the hole being drilled and a coating of grease just as an insurance pollicy and I haven't had any problems, think the possibility of a small amount of grease and swaf mix in the sump will only mix with the sludge that will be in there on a TD42 with anything over 100,000ks on the engine after fitting a turbo set up i always do a full service on the engine, but each to there own, yes if I had the engine as the op has got his I would take sump off and do it and both main seals clean and degrease the engine while at it ;)
 

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the swarf, if its smaller than the mesh on your oil pickup, will eventually get sucked into the oil pump and end up in the oil filter. so it might score the inside of the oil pump. I suppose it wont matter much but things like that do make people (like me) uncomfortable.

you're right about the drill bit, its just the last few burrs of the last fraction of a mm that go inside. Tapping a thread can put a bit of swarf down the hole. In this case if i were to do it with the sump on I'd "tap" the thread with the fitting and then epoxy it in place with devcon or similar. My other car was done in this way and it hasnt leaked
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
undid sump and it just fell of, gasket is perfect. Have degreased drilled and prepped sump and found nice piece of 15mm steel barb from a heater pipe connector which I am getting Tig welded on tomorow.


Pleasant to see almost no sludge in sump.
 

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Looks good.
It will smell brand new for a week nothing like the smell of new engine enamel.
What turbo you putting on it?
It all takes time & patience & of course money.
 
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