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1988 MK260 SD33T
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was hoping someone could help with what oil to use in my 260.
I know a lot of people run 15w40 in the SD33t but as far as transmission, T case, and both axles I can't find the correct lube.
Sorry if I'm making a post that been made already but I can't find specifications for all oil anywhere, let alone a thread dedicated to them.
I've found the capacities for everything but not the oil weights.
Thanks in advance!
 

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1985 SD33T MK LWB Wagon
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Not to hijack the thread, but probably better than creating a new thread, would it be preferred to use 15W40 in the SD or something thicker like 20W60? I originally filled it up with 15W40 but for my first proper 5000km service I changed to 20W60. Anyone got opinions on this? I know Landy used to run 20W60 in his extremely well set up SD, and seems to have had good success (from what I can tell the only reason it failed was a bad injector, not any of the usual problems), so I'm wondering what the benefits/downsides might be to either option.
 

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
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Not to hijack the thread, but probably better than creating a new thread, would it be preferred to use 15W40 in the SD or something thicker like 20W60? I originally filled it up with 15W40 but for my first proper 5000km service I changed to 20W60. Anyone got opinions on this? I know Landy used to run 20W60 in his extremely well set up SD, and seems to have had good success (from what I can tell the only reason it failed was a bad injector, not any of the usual problems), so I'm wondering what the benefits/downsides might be to either option.
Running a good quality, high detergent, mixed fleet or diesel oil is more important than the viscosity alone IMO.
I once put Shell 25w60 in when I'd run out of Delo 15w40, drank it like a fish, but I consistently have no consumption issues with Delo 400. Can't fully explain that, i assume it was less stable at higher temps.

Are you talking of Penrite HPR 20w60? if so it should be alright. I'm far from an oil expert, but it seems to have reasonably high levels of zinc, phosphorus and sulfated ash.
 

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What would the advantage of a 20W60 vs 15W40 be? In my opinion, the 20w60 would be to thick but, especially for a cold start. But the driving conditions over here are less extreme. My concern is that the ticker oil passes much harder through the bores, channels and gaps in the engine. I only would consider it if the oil-pressure is on the low side.
 

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1985 SD33T MK LWB Wagon
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What would the advantage of a 20W60 vs 15W40 be? In my opinion, the 20w60 would be to thick but, especially for a cold start. But the driving conditions over here are less extreme. My concern is that the ticker oil passes much harder through the bores, channels and gaps in the engine. I only would consider it if the oil-pressure is on the low side.
I believe the reason I put it in (can't recall exactly) is because I don't have an external oil cooler, and after going on my Fraser Island trip (big sand island off the east coast of Australia), I realised that my oil gets quite hot and thins out significantly after driving there.
I do have gauges, I've got boost, EGT, oil pressure, and water temperature, but no oil temperature, but I know my oil got very hot because after a long run at high RPM's and low speed on the sand my oil pressure at idle got down to around 8psi, which is way to low for comfort, so until I get an external oil cooler to help keep it cool and the pressure up, I put in 20W60 so that on subsequent sand trips I won't have oil pressure that low.
For reference on a cold start the oil pressure at idle is around 40-45psi and once warmed up it sits around 20psi. I don't know how much pressure is needed to keep the bearings floating on a film of oil, but I wanted to be safe so I put in a thicker oil.
 

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1988 MK260 SD33T
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I believe the reason I put it in (can't recall exactly) is because I don't have an external oil cooler, and after going on my Fraser Island trip (big sand island off the east coast of Australia), I realised that my oil gets quite hot and thins out significantly after driving there.
I do have gauges, I've got boost, EGT, oil pressure, and water temperature, but no oil temperature, but I know my oil got very hot because after a long run at high RPM's and low speed on the sand my oil pressure at idle got down to around 8psi, which is way to low for comfort, so until I get an external oil cooler to help keep it cool and the pressure up, I put in 20W60 so that on subsequent sand trips I won't have oil pressure that low.
For reference on a cold start the oil pressure at idle is around 40-45psi and once warmed up it sits around 20psi. I don't know how much pressure is needed to keep the bearings floating on a film of oil, but I wanted to be safe so I put in a thicker oil.
My pressure sits at about the same. I might need to think about running thicker in the future since I'll be driving in California heat on the highway...
 

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1985 SD33T MK LWB Wagon
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My pressure sits at about the same. I might need to think about running thicker in the future since I'll be driving in California heat on the highway...
Highway driving should be fine, the engine isn't working super hard usually and the cooling can generally keep up pretty well. It's only in extreme situations, like the one I described; engine working very hard at high rpm's and low speed for long periods of time, that the oil will heat up too much and become too thin. I will eventually add an external oil cooler, not hard to do, and then I'll be able to much more comfortably run 15W40 without fear of sand driving destroying my crank bearings.
 

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What oil are people using to replace Delo 15w40
Honestly most oils are pretty similar, some have extra detergents in them etc. but you'll be fine with any good 15w40. I usually get Penrite Vantage Diesel 15w40 full mineral, but if there's a Castrol, Valvoline, Shell one that's cheaper and says it's for heavy duty diesel applications I'll get that. From your profile picture I can make out that you've got a TD42 so you'll be best off going for something for heavy duty applications, as old mechanical diesels need good lubrication.

I'd stay away from the really cheap ones though until I knew more about them, for example there's one at repco from a company called "GV oils", who've got a diesel mineral 15w40, $50 for 10L, whereas most companies are $80-100 for the same amount. If I found out it was the same stuff in a different bottle I'd be all over that, but in my eyes you get what you pay for. For a purchase that's only once every 5000km and will help extend the life of the engine, I don't see any reason to cheap out on oil.
 

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I add 2 quarts or 20% oil volume of Lucas Oil Stabilizer then level out with 15w40. I’m sure you have something comparable in Australia.



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1985 SD33T MK LWB Wagon
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I add 2 quarts or 20% oil volume of Lucas Oil Stabilizer then level out with 15w40. I’m sure you have something comparable in Australia.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Might even be able to find exactly that actually, there’s some lucasoil products at my local Repco if memory serves me well, I’ll have to have a look next time I’m looking for oil


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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
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I've used Castrol VMX80 for years in gearboxes, transfer etc. Next change I'm going to try VMX-M 75w-85, mainly because the shop I was in was out of stock of VMX 80.

Never used it in a winch though, if its a PTO it'll likely be a worm drive, which can be fussy with the oil used. From memory in my Thomas 80w-90 or 85w-140 or something was recommended, but I don't recall seeing whether GL4/GL5 was specified.
 
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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
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11,386 Posts
FWIW, this is what is specified in the GQ factory service manual for the worm drive gearbox.
I checked the MQ manual, it just specified GL4, with oil weight depending on expected temperature range, same as transmission, transfer and non P/S steering box.
From what I've seen MQ and GQ PTO look pretty well the same, so its interesting that the recommended oil changed.

Some old Peugeots used worm drive diffs with a bronze wheel, very much like my Thomas PTO at least, the most easily available oil without buying in bulk seems to be Penrite Mild EP, so that's likely what I'll use.
 
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