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2003 ZD30 Patrol
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Nothing to worry about with the 0405 code. I get it on a daily basis due to my Tillix valve setup and the extra fuel from the remap. I've consulted with other tuners and we all agree it is nothing to worry about. That and none of us have been able to find the map that triggers it yet. I'll be back to working on my remap later this year once things go back to normal so hopefully I'll get lucky and find it.
The 0102 code can be caused by multiple things. Faulty connection to MAF sensor. Dirty MAF, leaking intake manifold gasket, faulty MAF and vacuum leak are all possible causes.

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Thank you @skegbudley. I’ll give the Maf a clean and check for vac leak, I know last time I cleaned the Maf the plastic plug wasn’t clicking in properly.
I might have to cable tie it on.
I had my ecu remapped by Harley at Ecpt about 3 years ago but never had the 0405 code until recently. I’m glad you think it’s nothing to worry about though.
 

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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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574 Posts
Discussion Starter #202 (Edited)
My ecu has been remapped so over voltage shouldn’t be a problem. My old Maf wasn’t showing enough voltage and therefore not giving it enough fuel when it got to high revs.
(That is how I see it anyway)

>>>>> YOU ARE 100% RIGHT. this is why MAF voltage is key.
It’s just the 2 codes I mentioned earlier that I’ll have to look into
Check the wiring and the MAF female / male connectors. you can use contact cleaner even if you don't see any oxyde. and the end to end continuituy test won't harm either. A bad connection and or an intermittent dis-connexion will drive the ECU mad and reporting error codes.
 

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2003 ZD30 Di Patrol (The rare Gold one)
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25,465 Posts
Thank you @skegbudley. I’ll give the Maf a clean and check for vac leak, I know last time I cleaned the Maf the plastic plug wasn’t clicking in properly.
I might have to cable tie it on.
I had my ecu remapped by Harley at Ecpt about 3 years ago but never had the 0405 code until recently. I’m glad you think it’s nothing to worry about though.
Id say the sentence in red is the most likely culprit. Remove the plug and spray MAF cleaner in there before having a good look inside of both the end of the MAF sensor and plug as there might be crap stuck inside it that is preventing the plug from fully seating. No harm cleaning the MAF sensor whilst you are there.
Harley and I had conversations where the 0405 code was brought up. There are lots of different boost and airflow related maps on the ECU. Nobody has identified all of them yet.
 

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2003 ZD30 Patrol
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Id say the sentence in red is the most likely culprit. Remove the plug and spray MAF cleaner in there before having a good look inside of both the end of the MAF sensor and plug as there might be crap stuck inside it that is preventing the plug from fully seating. No harm cleaning the MAF sensor whilst you are there.
Harley and I had conversations where the 0405 code was brought up. There are lots of different boost and airflow related maps on the ECU. Nobody has identified all of them yet.
I’ll give the plug and Maf sensor a good clean @skegbudley thanks for the tip. The 0405 code comes up constantly but the 0102 code is intermittent, I thought they might have been connected some how?
All that ecu remapping stuff is way over my head, I just wanted the bloody thing to stop limping (mainly in the morning when it was cold) and it gets bloody cold in winter where I live. Before the remap I was using a resistor in the red wire to lower voltage a little bit.
It worked but I did lose a bit of power because of it.
 

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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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574 Posts
Discussion Starter #205
a resistor will drive the MAF voltage down across its operating range, like the diodes I was suggesting. The ÉCU will then “see less air“, and inject less fuel. A better solution, without remapping, is an intelligent MAF control taking MAF voltage AND RPM as input. so you only cap the MAF voltage when necessary and let it go elsewhere.
 

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2003 ZD30 Patrol
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70 Posts
a resistor will drive the MAF voltage down across its operating range, like the diodes I was suggesting. The ÉCU will then “see less air“, and inject less fuel. A better solution, without remapping, is an intelligent MAF control taking MAF voltage AND RPM as input. so you only cap the MAF voltage when necessary and let it go elsewhere.
Before my remap I did a lot of trial and error with resistors, it was a fine line between it still limping and dropping too much voltage that when I put my foot down not much would happen.
I went to Jaycar to get a voltage modifier but at that stage they stopped producing them. When I read up on @geeyoutoo was happy with Harley at ecpt about a remap for a di, I got mine done and never looked back
 

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2003 ZD30 Patrol
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G’day @Phdv61 I have an update for you. I’ve been running just the 2 needle valves for a couple of months now and I’m still very impressed with the way it’s running. I can cruise at 100km/h at around 10psi and have an egt of 280 degrees.
It’s the middle of winter here and I think it’s running too cool.
I’m actually thinking of disabling the intercooler thermo fan.
 

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2002 Nissan Patrol Y61 LWB Auto ZD30 Di
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G’day @Phdv61 I have an update for you. I’ve been running just the 2 needle valves for a couple of months now and I’m still very impressed with the way it’s running. I can cruise at 100km/h at around 10psi and have an egt of 280 degrees.
It’s the middle of winter here and I think it’s running too cool.
I’m actually thinking of disabling the intercooler thermo fan.
Thanks for the update, i have been following the thread to decide if i should go for the 2 needles only. With Phil's good support, I currently run tillix + 2 needles, and at 100km/h at 2000 rpm i have approx 10 psi as well, but slightly higher EGTs lately, 300-320.

Running HPD type intercooler with big scoop, i could never see any difference whatsoever with the intercooler fan, even under heavy load.
 

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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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574 Posts
Discussion Starter #210
G’day @Phdv61 I have an update for you. I’ve been running just the 2 needle valves for a couple of months now and I’m still very impressed with the way it’s running. I can cruise at 100km/h at around 10psi and have an egt of 280 degrees.
It’s the middle of winter here and I think it’s running too cool.
I’m actually thinking of disabling the intercooler thermo fan.
if you are happy, if she drives well, don't touch !
and you can stop being paranoid with EGTs.
 

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2003 ZD30 Patrol
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Thanks for the update, i have been following the thread to decide if i should go for the 2 needles only. With Phil's good support, I currently run tillix + 2 needles, and at 100km/h at 2000 rpm i have approx 10 psi as well, but slightly higher EGTs lately, 300-320.

Running HPD type intercooler with big scoop, i could never see any difference whatsoever with the intercooler fan, even under heavy load.
When I first tried Dawes and 2 valves that worked well but the Dawes was opening almost straight away and so I thought I may as well get rid of it and see how it goes. Performance wise there’s not much difference (that’s just feel). I’ve never had it on a dyno. I’ve also noticed a little bit better fuel economy.
 

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2003 ZD30 Patrol
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if you are happy, if she drives well, don't touch !
and you can stop being paranoid with EGTs.
I’m very happy with it thanks @Phdv61 I’m not worried about the egt being too low because once summer kicks in here and I’m towing my van I’m sure it will serve me well. I would like to test it on a 40+ degree day with a/c on. I’ll update you when i drive it in summer.
I’m doing a high country snow trip soon so I’ll be interested in how it goes in sub zero conditions too.
 

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2003 ZD30 Patrol
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@bobby_dw I find the intercooler fan is very handy when I’m doing slow, hard 4x4 with very little or no air flow. Especially when I’m doing very steep hill climbs in the high country.
On the open highway it’s probably not needed as there is plenty of air flow. I’m running a tig welded intercooler (not much bigger than standard) and standard bonnet scoop.
 

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2003 ZD30 Patrol
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Thanks for the update, i have been following the thread to decide if i should go for the 2 needles only. With Phil's good support, I currently run tillix + 2 needles, and at 100km/h at 2000 rpm i have approx 10 psi as well, but slightly higher EGTs lately, 300-320.

Running HPD type intercooler with big scoop, i could never see any difference whatsoever with the intercooler fan, even under heavy load.
G’day @bobby_dw have you tried running your rig with just the 2 needle valves yet? If so what are your results?
 

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2002 Nissan Patrol Y61 LWB Auto ZD30 Di
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G’day @bobby_dw have you tried running your rig with just the 2 needle valves yet? If so what are your results?
Not yet mate, i went offroading in the weekend with the tillix+2, it performed extremely well, egt's were better (290-300deg at 100 kmh on the freeway, up to 470 on a very long steep climb). Hopefully will try the same track soon with just the 2 needles.
 

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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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574 Posts
Discussion Starter #216
The ideal VNT management curve should look like the one below
vertical axis : vanes closure ( max closure on top max opening on bottom)
horizontal axis : relative boost level (0 on left, max on the right )
That curve depends upon your Patrol configuration ( inlet, turbo, exhaust mainly ).

Vanes are as closed as possible at low rpm / low boost
They are kept closed until the turbo exhaust turbine spins fast enough

If they are not opened slightly ann progressively from that point, you build boost and backpressure, but the airflow is reduced. in other term, you loose power. or you get smoke, if you have an agressive remap with too much fuel.

The idea once the turbo spins fast nough ( i am NOT talking boost here as some people still make the mistake to run after boost instead of MAF value) is to reach the level of maximum efficiency of the turbo, which, for the stock turbo, is when the vanes are roughly half open or half closed ( same story with the bottle of wine... )

They can be kept (have to in fact) at that level until max authorized pressure is close to be reached. They have then to be opened rather rapidly to regulate around max boost under load.

With valves, it is rather difficult to match that curve, but the idea is to be as close as possible to the ideal curve.

The spool-up needle is used to set the maximum closure of the vanes ( which is done at idle ...)
The second needle will open the vanes progressively, but will not stop the opening at half aperture.

On the "ideal" graph below, it will be like a straight line from top left to right bottom.

That's why, wih all the data I have received from many users who canno't or do not want to go for true electronic control, which requires some software and hardware skills, I have come to the conclusion that the best arrangement would be to combine the two Needle arrangement, WITH a tillix or dawes followed by a third needle.

The result would be to have a straight line on the graph below between top left and mid right,
and then have the tillix or dawes to open a few psi BEFORE max boost allowed to get a more drastic vanes opening close to max boost.

It is the closest you can get to the idal curve, at the expense of a few section of hoses,
three Needle and one dawes or Tillix.

I did not try, as my own electronic control is running beautifully.



521270
 

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Registered
2003 ZD30 Patrol
Joined
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70 Posts
The ideal VNT management curve should look like the one below
vertical axis : vanes closure ( max closure on top max opening on bottom)
horizontal axis : relative boost level (0 on left, max on the right )
That curve depends upon your Patrol configuration ( inlet, turbo, exhaust mainly ).

Vanes are as closed as possible at low rpm / low boost
They are kept closed until the turbo exhaust turbine spins fast enough

If they are not opened slightly ann progressively from that point, you build boost and backpressure, but the airflow is reduced. in other term, you loose power. or you get smoke, if you have an agressive remap with too much fuel.

The idea once the turbo spins fast nough ( i am NOT talking boost here as some people still make the mistake to run after boost instead of MAF value) is to reach the level of maximum efficiency of the turbo, which, for the stock turbo, is when the vanes are roughly half open or half closed ( same story with the bottle of wine... )

They can be kept (have to in fact) at that level until max authorized pressure is close to be reached. They have then to be opened rather rapidly to regulate around max boost under load.

With valves, it is rather difficult to match that curve, but the idea is to be as close as possible to the ideal curve.

The spool-up needle is used to set the maximum closure of the vanes ( which is done at idle ...)
The second needle will open the vanes progressively, but will not stop the opening at half aperture.

On the "ideal" graph below, it will be like a straight line from top left to right bottom.

That's why, wih all the data I have received from many users who canno't or do not want to go for true electronic control, which requires some software and hardware skills, I have come to the conclusion that the best arrangement would be to combine the two Needle arrangement, WITH a tillix or dawes followed by a third needle.

The result would be to have a straight line on the graph below between top left and mid right,
and then have the tillix or dawes to open a few psi BEFORE max boost allowed to get a more drastic vanes opening close to max boost.

It is the closest you can get to the idal curve, at the expense of a few section of hoses,
three Needle and one dawes or Tillix.

I did not try, as my own electronic control is running beautifully.



View attachment 521270
I would like to try an electronic control of the vanes but all that stuff is way over my head. Running just the 2 needle valves is working well but I reckon electronically controlled would pull a bit more out of it.
If there was a simple way to do it or a plug and play method I’d give it a go for sure!
 

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Was known as JT54_Y61 GU IV 08CRD Wag ST
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G’day @Phdv61 I have an update for you. I’ve been running just the 2 needle valves for a couple of months now and I’m still very impressed with the way it’s running. I can cruise at 100km/h at around 10psi and have an egt of 280 degrees.
It’s the middle of winter here and I think it’s running too cool.
I’m actually thinking of disabling the intercooler thermo fan.
Be interested in what was the best method you found to set up the two needle valve (only) configuration?
 

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2003 ZD30 Patrol
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Be interested in what was the best method you found to set up the two needle valve (only) configuration?
G’day @Bidja I followed the schematic that @Phdv61 previously posted but without the Dawes valve as it wasn’t doing much anyway.
I left the spoolup needle set as it was when I was running the original Dawes setup. (Just off stop at idle). Then my second needle (new one) was set half closed. It was then a matter of drive and test until I was happy with boost and egt’s.
Hope this makes sense
 

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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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574 Posts
Discussion Starter #220
Hi @RAGGQ
if you left your original setting for the spool-up needle, adding the second needle did add some positive flow at idle. This opened your vanes a bit more than what you could have. Therefore it reduced your original spool-up.
You could try closing a bit your spool-up needle to recover your original spool-up, and open very slightly your second needle.
 
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