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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have just bought a large caravan, and my 2009 Patrol ZD30 is at the limits of its power. It has all the NADS goodies. I had a dyno run showing 89kW at the rear wheels. I wanted a simple tune-up with nothing fancy like new ECU or turbo changes.
A question for the learned on this forum is what is the best outcome for reasonable power and economy balance I can expect?
I hate to admit it, but the Navara STX 550 looks really good by comparison!
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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I have just bought a large caravan, and my 2009 Patrol ZD30 is at the limits of its power. It has all the NADS goodies. I had a dyno run showing 89kW at the rear wheels. I wanted a simple tune-up with nothing fancy like new ECU or turbo changes.
A question for the learned on this forum is what is the best outcome for reasonable power and economy balance I can expect?
I hate to admit it, but the Navara STX 550 looks really good by comparison!
You will here a lot of numbers mentioned but on a ZD30DI 100Kw is not that hard to get without making great changes, your CRD is a little better in as much as it has a smarter ECU and much better fuel injection qualities so getting 100rwkw is much easier.
The best way by far is an ECU remap, for the CRD there are many who can do this successfully. Where are you based? (just roughly) as we maybe able to recommend a good tuner close by, it is better to have the remap done on a dyno but there are good mail order guys around. If you have all the NADS bits then that makes it a bit more simple for them. An ECU remap will also get rid of those annoying limp zones that can crop up, it also turns off EGR (if yours has not already been blocked)
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Thanks Geeyoutoo,
Sensible advice as always, and 100kW may be just enough for a safe towing margin.
I live south of Adelaide near Mt Barker.
OK, if you have the data could you give us a listing of the NADS you have on your CRD? This will help us to understand your needs, but still a remap is the best way forward. I'm not fully conversant with Tuners in SA but we do have quite a few SA members here who may be able to help with suggestions.
 

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OK, if you have the data could you give us a listing of the NADS you have on your CRD? This will help us to understand your needs, but still a remap is the best way forward. I'm not fully conversant with Tuners in SA but we do have quite a few SA members here who may be able to help with suggestions.
Hi Ross, I have jut had a thought and am sure it must have be discussed on here before. Can a CRD ECU be put into a DI and then remapped? This might make it simpler for those who want a remap in a DI.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Hi Ross, I have jut had a thought and am sure it must have be discussed on here before. Can a CRD ECU be put into a DI and then remapped? This might make it simpler for those who want a remap in a DI.
Whole harness is different, there are also extra sensors and fuel injectors are soooo much better than the DI and they work totally different. So no not really an option.
 

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Ok fair enough, I didn’t think that there were more sensors etc,
I know people have done DI to CRD engine swaps and in theory, it should be possible to convert a DI engine to CRD as the basic architecture is the same, but the two injection systems operate on vastly different principles (hence the COMMON RAIL name) so a CRD ECU wouldn’t know what to do with a DI engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK, if you have the data could you give us a listing of the NADS you have on your CRD? This will help us to understand your needs, but still a remap is the best way forward. I'm not fully conversant with Tuners in SA but we do have quite a few SA members here who may be able to help with suggestions.
Hi Geeyoutoo,
Modifications over several years are a snorkel and K&N Air Filter. The EGR is completely blocked, rather than the usual 6mm hole, and the Engine Warning Light is disabled. My turbo VNT controller is adjusted to give a maximum of 21PSI at full throttle, and the Dawes valve only holds the vanes closed to about 5psi. I find this limits the exhaust manifold pressure and gives better economy. I also have an Ozbush MAP Clamp with the ECU only seeing 13.8 PSI maximum. The turbo flows into a 3 inch dump pipe and exhaust.

I hope this gives a better picture, and hopefully you can give some more advice.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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OK, got the picture now, but I wonder what is going on with MAFv reading to ECU to prevent limp in the MAFv limp zones.
Difficult decision, to get the best out of a remap you may need to undo some of those mods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OK, got the picture now, but I wonder what is going on with MAFv reading to ECU to prevent limp in the MAFv limp zones.
Difficult decision, to get the best out of a remap you may need to undo some of those mods.
Hi Geeyoutoo,

When the MAP pressu
re hits 14 psi, there was an error code for "Over Boost". The voltage clamp stopped that. The MAP voltage tracks normally to about 3.2v, then clamps there.
This is easily reversed if the ECU remap will handle MAP inputs over 3.2v without limp.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Hi Geeyoutoo,

When the MAP pressu
re hits 14 psi, there was an error code for "Over Boost". The voltage clamp stopped that. The MAP voltage tracks normally to about 3.2v, then clamps there.
This is easily reversed if the ECU remap will handle MAP inputs over 3.2v without limp.
OK now I get it, yes a remap negates the need for any MAP or MAF interference.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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As said earlier I'm not conversant with good SA tuners, but we do have quite a few SA members who may be able to help. Unless you are fairly mechanically knowledgeable I think getting a good tuner to look at the whole system and what may need further changes.
 

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nissan patrol
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Been through all the upgrades that are possible with the ZD30.
In the end, I threw out the whole motor and dropped a Chevy L77 6.0L engine in there.
Firstly, 350kg lighter on the front end straight up, fuel economy has been about the same and stock it throws out 220kw.
The most important thing, watching the look on Y62 owners when you blow them away off the line.
 

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I had my Fuso Canter Fg84 remapped at Diesel Tune in Glenelg,SA a couple of months ago. The tune was amazing, so much difference in power. I’ve also got a 2000 GU and had it chipped (at a different place), too old for a remap I was told, but I’d do a remap over a chip anyway if I could. At Diesel Tune, I wouldn’t suggest getting anything else done that that don’t really specialise in, but really can’t fault them with the re-map. Hope the suggestion helps.
 

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As a reference, my CRD has factory turbo but larger intercooler and 3" exhaust plus gauges to watch it all. Asked for a 'safe' tow tune ECU remap and it now gets up to 110kw at the rear wheels. Boost will spike up to 16psi then quickly settles to around 14.5psi max.
I tow a 2.5T van and it is okay. I downshift to 4th on any incline and regularly enough drop further down to 3rd, but that's mostly to keep temps down on extended inclines. I try to keep EGT's under 500 so if temp creeps near there I back off more and downshift as needed. On a flat with no wind and towing at highway speeds my EGTs sit around the 300 mark. My wagon is heavy with draws, front and rear bars, sliders, 2" lift, 33" tires, roof rack, GVM upgrade etc. Without any extra camping gear (i.e. no fridge, tent, chairs etc) but rear draws full (always carry recovery and basic cooking gear) full of fuel and just me it comes in at 2880kg. Not towing and sitting at 95 km/h I'll get anywhere down to 11.5 l/100km. With family of 4 and camping gear not towing I get around 14-15 l/100km. Towing, with family but little camping gear I get around 18-20 l/100.
I usually sit within 5 km of the speed limit or with traffic flow if slower and I rarely overtake.
 

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I got this tune done on my 2010 GU 3L Auto with a 3” exhaust.

Taking the car to the shop I did a standing start from the bottom of a hill to the top which took 17 seconds. Repeating this after the tune took 12 seconds. No hot rod but feels much better now. Fuel economy didn’t change.
 
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As a reference, my CRD has factory turbo but larger intercooler and 3" exhaust plus gauges to watch it all. Asked for a 'safe' tow tune ECU remap and it now gets up to 110kw at the rear wheels. Boost will spike up to 16psi then quickly settles to around 14.5psi max.
I tow a 2.5T van and it is okay. I downshift to 4th on any incline and regularly enough drop further down to 3rd, but that's mostly to keep temps down on extended inclines. I try to keep EGT's under 500 so if temp creeps near there I back off more and downshift as needed. On a flat with no wind and towing at highway speeds my EGTs sit around the 300 mark. My wagon is heavy with draws, front and rear bars, sliders, 2" lift, 33" tires, roof rack, GVM upgrade etc. Without any extra camping gear (i.e. no fridge, tent, chairs etc) but rear draws full (always carry recovery and basic cooking gear) full of fuel and just me it comes in at 2880kg. Not towing and sitting at 95 km/h I'll get anywhere down to 11.5 l/100km. With family of 4 and camping gear not towing I get around 14-15 l/100km. Towing, with family but little camping gear I get around 18-20 l/100.
I usually sit within 5 km of the speed limit or with traffic flow if slower and I rarely overtake.
Who did your tune Steve?
 
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