[Morejandal]

Hey guys,

I know nothing about painting.

I want to tidy the girl up a bit. Gave it a good wash and polish yesterday and it looks great. However the genuine nissan bar looks a bit shabby now with a heap of chips and rub marks. Is there a DIY alternative to repaint, or do I need to take it to the pro's.
Same goes for the rear bar. Its reasonably new but got a big rub and scratch on one side. Its taken one layer of paint off but there is still one underneath.
I also have afew little piant chips that I want to sort out on the body. Do I need to prime them first or just give them a lick of paint?
And whats the best for painting inside wheel arches? I have obviously driven through some conrete slurry on site somewhere and in trying to take it off I have removed some of the black thick coat stuff in the wheel arches.

Cheers,

 

[KangaRooted]

I took my ute apart - triple m tray and ARB bullbar and took it all to evolution coatings at Coopers Plains. They powder coated everything (cashy). The bullbar came up almost like new. I'm still very happy with it. I'll find a piccy and post it.

They are sometimes a bit hard to get onto, but they were cheaper than anyone else around the general area. The biggest killer in jobs like those is the sand blasting as it seems to cost more than the coating itself.

 

[KangaRooted]

Tried to upload a piccy of the end of the bullbar. Hope it worked!
There are a few water marks on there from all this rain - tried to wipe it up with a rag.

 

[KangaRooted]

Also got a before and after of part of the tray. The after shot is in the rain, but you can see the difference!! So yeah my opinion for bar work - powder coating all the way - doesn't matter where from as long as you can get a good deal.

 

[Mick..]

There are a couple of options one being as said above going with powdercoat. The other option if you want to have a go yourself is to get the bar work sandblasted and repaint it yourself. There is a 2 pack out called LIC40 which is actually a harder, tougher and more durable paint then Powdercoat and it can go straight over bare metal or sandblasted metal with no primer required.

If you have a look though this thread there plenty of information on it.
http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/body-paint-56/safety-yellow-recovery-hooks-57175/

Cheers Mick.

 

[GUTourer]

yeah i know mick!! but be damned if i can source it in WA

 

[Morejandal]

Cheers guys.
I wipped my sliders off over the break and gave them a sand prime and paint, came up good, but Im buggered if I'd have a go at the bull bar, could make a real mess of it I reckon haha. I will check the powder coating for a price.

 

[Mick..]

yeah i know mick!! but be damned if i can source it in WA

Here's some guys who supply Debeer's paints in WA so you should have some luck. These guys can all get LIC40.

Asia Pacific Distributors

Cheers Mick.

 

[gasguzzler]

I just use spraycans.. theyr just going to get scratched up again anyway.

 

[tassie patrol]

go with LIC40, apparently once dried properly you can hit it with a hammer and not chip it, plus so easy to prepare just rub back with coarse sand paper and hit it with the paint

 

[GUTourer]

Just a follow up. I sourced the paint at

West Coast Automotive Supplies
Unit 1/203 Collier Road
Bayswater
(08) 9375 6451


Cheers for the info Mick!!!

Paint was $73 for 4 litres, witht he hardener and thinners all up came to 120 odd.

 

[buggy on down]

Spray pack enamal can't beat it. My wagon resently used as our wedding car. Pulled all bar work off quick rub back and 3-4 coats. Smick as

 

[Mick..]

Just a follow up. I sourced the paint at

West Coast Automotive Supplies
Unit 1/203 Collier Road
Bayswater
(08) 9375 6451


Cheers for the info Mick!!!

Paint was $73 for 4 litres, witht he hardener and thinners all up came to 120 odd.

Good to here mate.

If you have any questions just send me a PM

Cheers Mick.