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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

After having some issues with the drivers door playing up I discovered I had a common issue which is a plastic pin within the mechanism breaking. With the pressure that part of the mechanism is under it should never have been made of plastic. There is not a lot of detailed info on this so I decided to post what I have done to add to the info out there. There is one nice post with some pics bot not much info or pics on the guts of the mechanism so I'll put up what I've got to save someone else the hours it took me figuring this little bastard out. I got away with spending about $30 to repair this when a new one will run you over $300

Looking front on the red arrow in the next picture shows where the broken pin belongs, the green circle shows a rivet that you will have to drill out (note drill out the smaller side is best, in this pic I've already drilled it out obviously), orange circle shows the first screw you want to undo before you pop open the mechanism, it is also the last thing you screw back on before you put it back in the car.

511098


There are two metal tabs you need to lever open in order to get the plastic housing off the metal backing (again make sure you have drilled the rivet, green circle above). There is also a pinch tab holding in the blue plastic connector that also has a spring it is holding, you do not need to undo this at all to fix the mechanism, just leave it in. By pinch tab I mean you need to pinch the two white plastic bits together to push them through a hole to get it out, its on the left hand side near the blue bit, just leave it. If you pull it out you can easily put it back but you will need to note how to put the spring back in which is shown below.

The below pics show the two spots that are best to lever open the two metal tabs, best using a very small jewlers type flathead. Trust me this is the best way, I undid and redid it up this way about 25 times before I had mine fixed and had it down to a fine art. You can also see in the second pic in the blue circle the bolt and nut I used to replace the busted plastic pin. More info on them later.

511100
511104



The next pics show the pinch tab I'm talking about (green circle, you dont have to undo this at all really) and the position of the spring if it comes loose (orange circle). Also note how the blue saddle lever latches on to what is the sliding mechanism (red circle).

511101
511102




This is what the inside looks like ,there is a sliding plate and this shows how it is positioned, the red arrow points to the busted pin replacement, I replaced it with a 3/16th Mushroom head bolt that I grinded down so that the head was flat enough to fit easily under to sliding plate (red arrow). Second (upside down) pic shows the ground down bolt without the sliding plate over it.

511106
511107


Below are what bolts I used, you can also use these to replace the rivet, you will just need to grind down the head to make it nearly flat and file out some of the plastic on the front of the rivet area to made room for the nut but a light file will do the trick. I also used two of the square nuts that came with the mushroom heads on top of one another and a bit of locktite under them to secure them in place nicely.

511108



I had a few more issues which I'll put in a reply below as you can only have 10 pics per post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
If you have all that done above you might be able to pop it all together and have it work properly, unfortunately mine didn't so I had to spend a bit more time working on it before it did what it was supposed to.

If you have a look at the pics below you can see that when you slide the sliding plate in the mechanism, it will also push down the long metal pin about 7 or so mm. Before and after pics below. You can see the pin drop down below the line of the tissue box in the pics. Distance shown by the orange lines.

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My problem was that the pin was not seating properly and would not push all the way down while the mechanism was back together. This was a pain in the ass that I eventually fixed by drilling out the seat for the pin and also took some off the lock itself under the seat (was hard to drill, luckily I had a drill press) and then also had to file the pin down as well. That ended up doing the trick.

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The filing:

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If you have this problem you will need to manually lock the mechanism from underneath by pushing it with your finger (the hook/lock shown below), this is an important step.... have it locked in order to test it out. Then when the mechanism is together activate the sliding mechanism (fiddle with the yellow lever) which also pushes the pin down into the housing below, if you have drilled it out and ground the pin enough it should be able to seat itself properly. You can unlock the mechanism with the black triangular thingo in the second pic. The black tirangular thingo is what the sliding mechanism activates to open the lock,

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Good luck. Hope this saves someone a bit of time.
 

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Excellent write up bottlegnjack!
I have a few issues with central locking. I'm pretty certain I'll be reading through this again.
Many thanks.
Cheers.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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@bootlegnjack I'm going to move this to the DIY Modifications and Accessories section, I think that is a far better home for this writeup.
 

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nissan patrol
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I've felt this pain. but mine looks totally different. and is definatly a different plastic pin that's broken. mine is the one that holds the push rod in place, the plastic tab breaks, and the rod just pops out with the pressure of the door handle mechanism.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've felt this pain. but mine looks totally different. and is definatly a different plastic pin that's broken. mine is the one that holds the push rod in place, the plastic tab breaks, and the rod just pops out with the pressure of the door handle mechanism.
You should be able to and honestly I probably should have done this - just replace all the plastic pins with a ground down mushroom head bolt, the one that typically breaks has pressure from the spring nearby that weakens it but the middle one would get pressure on it if the push rod wasn’t seating properly which you should be able to fix with the mod I did on the second page of the thread. Drilling out the seat for it and the lock underneath and also filing the rod a bit. Good luck.
 

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You should be able to and honestly I probably should have done this - just replace all the plastic pins with a ground down mushroom head bolt, the one that typically breaks has pressure from the spring nearby that weakens it but the middle one would get pressure on it if the push rod wasn’t seating properly which you should be able to fix with the mod I did on the second page of the thread. Drilling out the seat for it and the lock underneath and also filing the rod a bit. Good luck.
as a temporary fix I just bent the rod a little, so it's harder to pop out, and put a foam block over the top of it so it can't just jump out. been fine for 6 months.(y)
 
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Brilliant write up Bootle. I had mine apart on Saturday and with your instructions had it fixed and back together in about an hour. Thanks mate!
 

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Hi,

After having some issues with the drivers door playing up I discovered I had a common issue which is a plastic pin within the mechanism breaking. With the pressure that part of the mechanism is under it should never have been made of plastic. There is not a lot of detailed info on this so I decided to post what I have done to add to the info out there. There is one nice post with some pics bot not much info or pics on the guts of the mechanism so I'll put up what I've got to save someone else the hours it took me figuring this little bastard out. I got away with spending about $30 to repair this when a new one will run you over $300

Looking front on the red arrow in the next picture shows where the broken pin belongs, the green circle shows a rivet that you will have to drill out (note drill out the smaller side is best, in this pic I've already drilled it out obviously), orange circle shows the first screw you want to undo before you pop open the mechanism, it is also the last thing you screw back on before you put it back in the car.

View attachment 511098

There are two metal tabs you need to lever open in order to get the plastic housing off the metal backing (again make sure you have drilled the rivet, green circle above). There is also a pinch tab holding in the blue plastic connector that also has a spring it is holding, you do not need to undo this at all to fix the mechanism, just leave it in. By pinch tab I mean you need to pinch the two white plastic bits together to push them through a hole to get it out, its on the left hand side near the blue bit, just leave it. If you pull it out you can easily put it back but you will need to note how to put the spring back in which is shown below.

The below pics show the two spots that are best to lever open the two metal tabs, best using a very small jewlers type flathead. Trust me this is the best way, I undid and redid it up this way about 25 times before I had mine fixed and had it down to a fine art. You can also see in the second pic in the blue circle the bolt and nut I used to replace the busted plastic pin. More info on them later.

View attachment 511100 View attachment 511104


The next pics show the pinch tab I'm talking about (green circle, you dont have to undo this at all really) and the position of the spring if it comes loose (orange circle). Also note how the blue saddle lever latches on to what is the sliding mechanism (red circle).

View attachment 511101 View attachment 511102



This is what the inside looks like ,there is a sliding plate and this shows how it is positioned, the red arrow points to the busted pin replacement, I replaced it with a 3/16th Mushroom head bolt that I grinded down so that the head was flat enough to fit easily under to sliding plate (red arrow). Second (upside down) pic shows the ground down bolt without the sliding plate over it.

View attachment 511106 View attachment 511107

Below are what bolts I used, you can also use these to replace the rivet, you will just need to grind down the head to make it nearly flat and file out some of the plastic on the front of the rivet area to made room for the nut but a light file will do the trick. I also used two of the square nuts that came with the mushroom heads on top of one another and a bit of locktite under them to secure them in place nicely.

View attachment 511108


I had a few more issues which I'll put in a reply below as you can only have 10 pics per post.
Brilliant write up and pic's I only with I read this before I locked myself out of my Patrol.
 

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Hi,

After having some issues with the drivers door playing up I discovered I had a common issue which is a plastic pin within the mechanism breaking. With the pressure that part of the mechanism is under it should never have been made of plastic. There is not a lot of detailed info on this so I decided to post what I have done to add to the info out there. There is one nice post with some pics bot not much info or pics on the guts of the mechanism so I'll put up what I've got to save someone else the hours it took me figuring this little bastard out. I got away with spending about $30 to repair this when a new one will run you over $300

Looking front on the red arrow in the next picture shows where the broken pin belongs, the green circle shows a rivet that you will have to drill out (note drill out the smaller side is best, in this pic I've already drilled it out obviously), orange circle shows the first screw you want to undo before you pop open the mechanism, it is also the last thing you screw back on before you put it back in the car.

View attachment 511098

There are two metal tabs you need to lever open in order to get the plastic housing off the metal backing (again make sure you have drilled the rivet, green circle above). There is also a pinch tab holding in the blue plastic connector that also has a spring it is holding, you do not need to undo this at all to fix the mechanism, just leave it in. By pinch tab I mean you need to pinch the two white plastic bits together to push them through a hole to get it out, its on the left hand side near the blue bit, just leave it. If you pull it out you can easily put it back but you will need to note how to put the spring back in which is shown below.

The below pics show the two spots that are best to lever open the two metal tabs, best using a very small jewlers type flathead. Trust me this is the best way, I undid and redid it up this way about 25 times before I had mine fixed and had it down to a fine art. You can also see in the second pic in the blue circle the bolt and nut I used to replace the busted plastic pin. More info on them later.

View attachment 511100 View attachment 511104


The next pics show the pinch tab I'm talking about (green circle, you dont have to undo this at all really) and the position of the spring if it comes loose (orange circle). Also note how the blue saddle lever latches on to what is the sliding mechanism (red circle).

View attachment 511101 View attachment 511102



This is what the inside looks like ,there is a sliding plate and this shows how it is positioned, the red arrow points to the busted pin replacement, I replaced it with a 3/16th Mushroom head bolt that I grinded down so that the head was flat enough to fit easily under to sliding plate (red arrow). Second (upside down) pic shows the ground down bolt without the sliding plate over it.

View attachment 511106 View attachment 511107

Below are what bolts I used, you can also use these to replace the rivet, you will just need to grind down the head to make it nearly flat and file out some of the plastic on the front of the rivet area to made room for the nut but a light file will do the trick. I also used two of the square nuts that came with the mushroom heads on top of one another and a bit of locktite under them to secure them in place nicely.

View attachment 511108


I had a few more issues which I'll put in a reply below as you can only have 10 pics per post.
 

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Hi Bootlegnjack,
You are a champion, had the common door lock problems with my GU ST 4.2, followed your advice & photos.Used a grinder to cut the rivot, easier than drilling now working like a new one but cheaper. Many thanks
 

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this is the best write up I have come across

cheers for putting in the time too make this it saved me a whole lot of time and money
 
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