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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
I am rebuilding my K260 with the target to bring it back in to original beauty like below.



And this is the lady



Actually this is how she looked like four years ago, then I sold it and now received her back in form of truckload of loose parts.





I don't want to get into the history here, it is what it is.

The whole body was repaired, all corrosion spots were removed and the whole thing was plasma galvanized (probably)





And here is my problem which I would like to present in this thread. Namely, due to very limited information about this model, I have a lot of questions about restoring this car to original condition. I have service manual and there is access to parts catalog for K160 and y60 and from that something can be concluded but not everything.

As this forum seems to be very vital I hope to find here some help in gathering information.

cheers
s
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hi All,
I just bought OEM set of rubber body mounts.
These are just rubber bits, no bolts, washers etc.

Also No 12 from below diagram is missing.

Does anybody have dimensions and specs for bolts and washers and this cup No12 so I could machine it?
Also I am looking for pictures how this is actually assembled? Not all is clear. From diagram it looks like No 12 sits on the frame which seems incorrect, anybody has pictures of that?
thx
 

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73 Posts
Hi seler,

No 12 just sits on the frame. You can take another one off to measure it or just measure the rubber part which has to fit in this cup. Just make sure the height is less then the rubber so it doesn't touches the body.
I've used standard metric bolts, M14 I think.

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Swero! Is No 12 somehow fixed to the frame? I'm afraid that slight movement will scrub paint and start rust.
For the bolts I taught that this not-threded part lenght is important to avoid squeezing rubber to much
 

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You need 4 of them, I believe they are spot welded but not 100% sure. You do need bolts with al long shaft (not threaded), also to avoid the threads cutting in the rubber. In some kits, there would be a steel bushing in the rubber pads
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It took me some time to clean up other things but finally I start with works.
Body mount, original rubber, washers, cups and bolts collected. It took six months but they are here and can replace this:


With this



Mentioned above cups are not spot welded, originally they have a rubber on the bottom so probably just sit on the frame:




The car itself was took from "proffesional renovator" who was not able to complete renovation for four years.
One of things he done was cutting knuckle ball off the front axle:


And balls were covered with some ss alloys, cnc'd and polished





It looks ok but i needed to weld it back.
First step was sanblasting the axle with sanblasting adapter for my jet washer



then assembly balls in place, luckily there were marks left so there is a chance that geometry will not be ruined. I have another axle with little worse conditions which I used to measure:



Then I stick welded, first with 6013 and next pass with 7018





Now need to fabricate some missing brackets, paint whole thing and it will be ready to assemble.

To complete rear axle first I needed to rebuild drum brake shield as professional renovator galvanised completely rotten elements:





I have ordered cnc cut elements and tig it














Just need to spot weld and send it for galvanizing and powder coat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Did some small progress:

Spot welded shields



Sorted bolts to see what is missing, what can be galvanised what goes to trash...




First batch for galvanising and/or powdercoating ready to go



Most of the elements galvanised by "proffesional renovator" needs to be done again.
From this axle which was supposed to be ready to paint I beat off half kilo of rust and dirt, never seen galvanised dirt before :))









Rear axle will be also galvanised or coated by cataphoresis. Front axle will be only powder coated as it cannot be immersed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Some further cleaning of rear axle:




Removal of rear axle bearing case


Lesson: should be pulled by at least four points, two points slightly gave up and needed to make it flat again.

To be cleaned and painted, new wheel bolts required:



For fixing brake lines in to axle, instead of rotten steel leaves welded nuts M6 plus p-clamps:

 

· I Have Imaginary Friends
Patrol Hybrid.
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22,498 Posts
This galvanising that has supposedly been done, is it just a spray job or is it a proper hot dip? To me, it looks like a sand/soda blast then just a dodgy very quick spray job, which I wouldn't trust for any corrosion protection.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Frankly I have no idea. I just bought truckload of patrol parts :) and the story that renovation went for four years up to this stage...
The inside will be fine anyway once your up and running, you only need to monitor the external casing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Quick question:
Originally there was body mount near wheel arch:


The "renovator" had cut them off, both frame one and this bit of the body as well. Probably during rust repairs or something.
Now I have a dilemma to restore them or not. Of course it would be better to have it like original but that means welding and the same destroyed galvanisation locally on the frame and body.
From another hand when people do body lift then this mount are useless anyway and another thing is this bits are lost so I do not have dimensions...

Don't know what to do with this and it holds sending body to the paint shop...
 

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I've got the same issue. Mine were also rusted, so I removed them to repair the floorpanel and put them back in afterwards. I can't use them anymore since I've got a bodylift. But in case I have to remove the bodylift, they still can be used. These mounts serve to pick up tension load when decelerating whereas the other body mounts undergo shear forces. So please don't crash if you don't put them back. 😁
 

· SUI GENERIS UTE
GQ Ute 1990 Silvertop
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It's a EU thing for head on collisions. Utes had a similar loop thing to connect cab to chassis (not that it would do much). LWB Wagons don't have them because they have an extra 2 to 4 extra body mount fixings. You have a short wheel base so they have that fixing to compensate. I wouldn't get too concerned about it as long as your other cabin mounts are in good condition. (not rusty)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks, I'll fabricate the body part in the first place to not ruin any paint job afterwards, I need dimensions of this bit and details how it is connected with lower part, is there any bushing or just bolt in the hole?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Working on rear axle prep for paint I have noticed that cover flange was miserable, chisel/grinder marks holes and dots... This would not seal so I have put sandpaper on large polished granite block and put it back to nice, smooth and flat:







Some bits ready for paint

 
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