[ZS Solutions]

Hi José

Try this site for part number lookups.

400 - FRONT AXLE for Patrol 160 Nissan Patrol - Amayama

Johan;
Thanks for this gif, really is all I need for my problem.
Now, to buy....!!!!

Again, Thanks.

 

[Swero]

Yeah, I'm really satisfied with the paint. When it came back, it looked a bit monotone, but now that the windows are tinted etc, it's really looking nice.

The upholstery was the same as the rest of the car so I believe it's an original piece. Anyway, my girlfriend recovered it in brown leather so it has te be placed back, no matter where 😜

 

[Swero]

I found a picture in an advertisement of how the radio setup is.

 

[Swero]

Like the rest of the interior, the doorpanels were to far gone to reuse. So I made some new by using the old ones as a template, covered them with foam and skai-leather and put some new boxes in it. I also bought some brown interior parts to match with the cognac color of the leather

The cabin was already sound deadned with alubutyl but I also placed a layer of metisse on the floor to insulate it better and to make it easier to cover with carpet. Me and my girlfriend gave it a shot but we didn't succeed. The carpet remains to stiff to fit it around the curves and corners. There isn't much strech on it. Maybe next weekend we give it another shot with the heatgun and hotwater.

This is how the combo-lever looks now.

The brakelines are in meantime also connected and finally got it managed to brake properly. As it is Spanish made and for the European market, it is equipped with a load-sensing valve or something like that. 60% or so of the brake force goes to the front wheels while the rest goes to the back. When bleeding the lines, there was no oil getting to rear drums however there was oil getting in to the LS-valve. Seems a little piece of paper, used to keep the bores free from debris, was stuck in the line to the rear 🤦‍♂️. So if you ever wondered why restorations take so long, this is one of the reasons why 😄

 

[james008]

Those door panels look excellent mate.

The combo switch looks good too. How did you restore the white marks? Paint and a very small paint brush?
I've never bothered trying lol.

 

[Swero]

Those door panels look excellent mate.

The combo switch looks good too. How did you restore the white marks? Paint and a very small paint brush?
I've never bothered trying lol.

There are decalls available which you can stick on the stalk, then just a few layers of clear coat and ready. I resprayed mine black before sticking the decals on them.

 

[Swero]

Finnaly got the carpets in. It was a hell of a job. I bought some ordinary carpet with a plastic backing, used a heatgun and an iron to mold it. Which worked pretty well for the piece under the seats and center console as well for the flat piece in the trunk space. But the rest was really bad with a lot of folds and even burn marks. There wasn't enough material to stretch and the backing was so stiff it was very hard to crimp. So I pulled it back out again. Second time, made some cuts and sews and then used the heatgun to make the backing soft so i could be molded. I also glued small parts instead of the whole carpets so that minor adjustments could be made. The result was much better. It's a shame the the black color is so hard to put on camera 😄

Seats are in.

Flares are mounted

 

[Swero]

I noticed that the 4WD light on the dash doesn't light up when it's in 4L or 4H. I took out the switch and when I press it manually, the light comes on. So no problems with wiring, switch and bulb. The hubs are locked and both propshafts turn when I spin the wheel. Anyone an idea what the problem could be? It seems like the mechanism in the transfercase doesn't make contact with the switch, but it used to work in the past.

 

[Swero]

I've made some new stickers to put on the tailgate

And painted the wheelhubs in grey.

I struggles with an oilleak on the injectionpump. Oil was dripping from the cover plate, which is a bit strange to me since I believe there is no pressure in the chamber behind the cover plate and it was leaking a fair amount.
I'm also dealing with a faulty oilsender. Whit the ignition on and engine not running, it reads 6 bar. First I thought it had something to do with the 2 wires. Switching them didn't helped, the engine was turned off by the DPC-module. Could it be a mass problem, since it's always reading max pressure?

 

[Insannigq]

I've made some new stickers to put on the tailgate
View attachment 539029

View attachment 539030

And painted the wheelhubs in grey.
View attachment 539031

I struggles with an oilleak on the injectionpump. Oil was dripping from the cover plate, which is a bit strange to me since I believe there is no pressure in the chamber behind the cover plate and it was leaking a fair amount.
I'm also dealing with a faulty oilsender. Whit the ignition on and engine not running, it reads 6 bar. First I thought it had something to do with the 2 wires. Switching them didn't helped, the engine was turned off by the DPC-module. Could it be a mass problem, since it's always reading max pressure?

Sounds like you have a similar problem to myself, leaking from the cover plate bolt. I've put it down to the bolt or threads just not quite right.. was thinking a little bit of liquid thread sealant should stop it

 

[Swero]

There is in fact a little seal in the cover plate for sealing the bolt. I did put a little sealant on mine to make sure it's tight but probably need to replace the rubber seals once.
On mine, oil was actually dripping out, little spots of oil on the places where I was parked. So it seems there is some pressure behind it.

 

[Swero]

In order to register your vehicle in Belgium, it needs to be roadworthy. So yesterday I went to the inspection station and got a red certificate. I'm pretty sure you guys aren't familiar with the rules over here but red is not good 🤪. The license plate bulb wasn't working which was due to a bad contact. No big deal. But the rear brakes weren't also operating as it should, less then 50%. However the brake shoes and cylinders are new. There is a returnspring missing which also holds the steel wire for the adjuster in place. Can't believe that it leads to such poor performance. Anyway, can't find a replacement spring for it. Most kits available are for an other type a brake, with the springs attached to both shoes. What's the best option, make a custom one?
I did nothing to the drums, there are some deep groves in it. Should I let them be machined so that the surface is smooth again? I've read that you should drive 500-1000 km to adapt the brake shoes and drums to each other, but that's pretty hard to do if you're not allowed to drive on public roads 😃.

To be honest, I'm pretty lucky that there were only 2 remarks. I had some doubts for the CO2 - soot test and for the adjustment of the headlights. Not to mention the bodylift and custom exhaust

One of these 2 springs is missing on the other side.

 

[geeyoutoo]

Are you able to get the springs where you are?

 

[Swero]

@geeyoutoo Nope, only this kit wich doesn't fit. Plenty of suppliers but they all offer the same kits.

 

[james008]

Are you sure that is not just a generic image used for spring kits?
It may be worth sending an enquiry to suppliers to see what exactly is included.

That image does not suit any MQ/MK drum brake, front and/or rear - semi or full floating rear hub.

 

[k.ustups]

Hi. Great job on the car. Im also in restoration with 1981 Patrol 3.3 non-turbo.

The last thing is motor. Maybe you can help or suggest something.

Option 1. I have one 3.3 non-turbo engine which requires rebuild, but cant get all parts and might be expensive.
Option 2. I also have 3.3 turbo, but without turbo and injection pump. Turbo i can get new for 400 euro. What the worst can happen if i bolt injection pump from non-turbo to a turbo engine? Because i cant find used injection pump for turbo engine.

From Latvia

 

[Swero]

I'm not to biggest Patrol expert or even turbo/IP expert but I belief the injection pumps aren't the same. The IP of a turbo of course injects more fuel as the turbo compresses more air in the cilinder which gives you more power compared to the N/A.
What exactly needs to be rebuild on the N/A?

 

[Swero]

@james008
Nope I've ordered a kit and the springs didn't fit. Apparently, the kits are for the 260 2.8l (Spanish model). They have the handbrake on the rear wheel, hence this different setup.

I've managed to get a spring from a wrecker. I think I've also made a mistake by not adjusting the adjuster, I thought the brakes were self-adjusting (by the steel wire), but apparently not. The brake shoes are now just running against the drums. I've put the car on jacks, let it run in 2nd gear and the engine stalled when pressing the brake. So I hope this is enough brake force. I took a little test on a dirt road but the rear wheels in comparison with the front wheel don't block. So it remains hard to say if they operate well enough.

 

[james008]

@james008
Nope I've ordered a kit and the springs didn't fit. Apparently, the kits are for the 260 2.8l (Spanish model). They have the handbrake on the rear wheel, hence this different setup.

I've managed to get a spring from a wrecker. I think I've also made a mistake by not adjusting the adjuster, I thought the brakes were self-adjusting (by the steel wire), but apparently not. The brake shoes are now just running against the drums. I've put the car on jacks, let it run in 2nd gear and the engine stalled when pressing the brake. So I hope this is enough brake force. I took a little test on a dirt road but the rear wheels in comparison with the front wheel don't block. So it remains hard to say if they operate well enough.

Interesting, never heard of the rear wheel handbrake on a 260.
Good that you were able to source the necessary spring.

The rear drums are technically 'self adjusting' the cable, adjuster spring and plate are supposed to slightly push the adjuster wheel when braking in reverse. However the adjustments they allow are very minimal, and they rely on minimal resistance in the adjuster.
They will not adjust themselves correctly when the drums and shoes are first installed. Even with self adjusters in place you are better off adjusting the brakes manually every service or two.

How you have adjusted your drums, so the shoes are just barely touching the drums is correct, and the front brakes should lock up well before the rears. The rear brakes locking first can lead to a loss of control of the vehicle.

 

[Swero]

Yesterday I went back to the inspection station. Off course, I did checked the license plate lamp and brakes before I left at home to make sure I wasn't wasting time and effort. First check at the station was the the license plate lamp, guess what🙈.
Next were the brakes, the car this time had some brake at the rear, but the unbalance was to big. After some 3-4 attempts and letting the drums heat up a bit, it passed the test, thanks to the guys of the inspection station. So now I can register it get a license plate.

I tried to deal with the oil gauge wich is constantly reading max pressure. Openend the sender and found al little spring which was loose, causing the variable resistor to stay put on one side (probably max). However it didn't help. The metal cap was filled with oil, so perhaps there is an internal leak, equalizing the pressure before and behind the sensing unit.
According to the manual when it reads max but returns to zero when ignition is off, the "oil pressure gauge unit" needs to be replaced, otherwise the "oil pressure gauge" needs to be replaced. What exactly is meant by the oil pressure gauge unit? It's a bit hard to translate and confusing as the sending unit, gauge unit and gauge are mentioned. Is it the meter in the combination meter or the sensor on the engine?