I'd just break down the 'probable cause' symptoms in brackets to see what it's referring too.Yesterday I went back to the inspection station. Off course, I did checked the license plate lamp and brakes before I left at home to make sure I wasn't wasting time and effort. First check at the station was the the license plate lamp, guess what🙈.
Next were the brakes, the car this time had some brake at the rear, but the unbalance was to big. After some 3-4 attempts and letting the drums heat up a bit, it passed the test, thanks to the guys of the inspection station. So now I can register it get a license plate.
I tried to deal with the oil gauge wich is constantly reading max pressure. Openend the sender and found al little spring which was loose, causing the variable resistor to stay put on one side (probably max). However it didn't help. The metal cap was filled with oil, so perhaps there is an internal leak, equalizing the pressure before and behind the sensing unit.
According to the manual when it reads max but returns to zero when ignition is off, the "oil pressure gauge unit" needs to be replaced, otherwise the "oil pressure gauge" needs to be replaced. What exactly is meant by the oil pressure gauge unit? It's a bit hard to translate and confusing as the sending unit, gauge unit and gauge are mentioned. Is it the meter in the combination meter or the sensor on the engine?
View attachment 539645
The top one has the:
(Gauge pointer returns to original position when ignition switch is turned off)
With those symptoms the actual visible gauge on the dash is working fine, showing that the sender on the engine is sending faulty signals. So the Oil Pressure Gauge Unit is the sender.
On the other hand, the "Oil Pressure Gauge", is faulty if it always reads max pressure, which would mean that something in the dash gauge is broken and it's just not returning to zero.
So the "Gauge Unit" is the sender,
and the "Gauge" is the bit that you look at in the dash that visibly shows oil pressure.