Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum banner
61 - 80 of 81 Posts

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
712 Posts
Discussion Starter · #62 ·
I have braced the coil towers onto the chassis cross members before and after the coil towers. My engineer suggested this was the best (and cheapest) way to do it as it spreads the load out rather than concentrating it in the coil towers.
I've also got a set of chassis braces that I got made up, these extend past the high stress area near the coil towers and I have designed them to also incorporate the tray mounts, I will try and grab a photo tonight.
The tray that I am going to put on is just a temporary tray. I was originally going to put a flat tray on it and then build a removable canopy but after talking to a few people I think I will just build a canopy that sits on the tray mounts directly.
 

·
Registered
GU IV TI 4.8
Joined
·
356 Posts
I have seen the previous pics of your chassis brace/tray mounts, they look really good. I would assume by using those and eventually with the tray/canopy on top joining the mounts, that would add quite a lot of rigidity anyway. Are you going for a fully enclosed canopy?

Excuse the many questions, obviously I'm interested in the chop side of things for my GU one day.
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
712 Posts
Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Tonight I ticked 2 more jobs off the list. First was to cover the rear wall in sound deadner, I originally looked at the dynamat product and I'm sure it's good but it's also expensive. Did a bit of research and found that a lot of people have had success with sikaflex multi seal which is a butyl rubber tape with an aluminium backing just like dynamat. A 10m roll (100mm wide) was $50 at Bunnings so I thought I would give it a go.
Before shot:


And after:


I've got a plywood insert that goes over the entire bottom section that has carpet glued on the outside and that wool based sound deadning mat glued on the inside. Should make the rear nice and quiet.

Second job was putting the bolts back in all the body mounts and tightening them up. I followed the spec on all but the middle 2 mounts. When I tightened them to spec they were totally crushed. Will leave them a bit looser and check them again in a 1000k.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
712 Posts
Discussion Starter · #67 ·
So Thursday night I finished putting all the body mount bolts in and then I had this horrible thought, I did all my mock ups for my intercooler with the body bolts out, how much has that changed all my heights? Answer turned out to be about 25mm, which totally screws me for heights in most places.
I'm as far toward the bonnet as I can go so I need to manufacture another 25mm between the engine and the bonnet, I hadn't planned on doing it originally but it looks like I need to fit a body lift.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Nissan patrol gq
Joined
·
1,769 Posts
So Thursday night I finished putting all the body mount bolts in and then I had this horrible thought, I did all my mock ups for my intercooler with the body bolts out, how much has that changed all my heights? Answer turned out to be about 25mm, which totally screws me for heights in most places.
I'm as far toward the bonnet as I can go so I need to manufacture another 25mm between the engine and the bonnet, I hadn't planned on doing it originally but it looks like I need to fit a body lift.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What size is your cooler?

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
712 Posts
Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Haha, been there as well. When I was trying to paint the car white using tb540 I just couldn't get it right. For a few weeks there all I did was put paint on the doors and then sand paint off the doors. Rinse, repeat.
Best decision i made was to give up on the white and go with a totally different paint.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
60 Posts
DrZoot,
That is an awesome job. I'm reasonably mechanically minded, but no way do I have the balls for this job! I'd be happy with the work you've by a professional, I am super impressed. Love the write up too. If that's your hobby work I do wonder what your computer looks like


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
712 Posts
Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Thanks NofishNT.

So yesterday I made some body mounts, about 27mm high which is all I needed. It has actually made a whole bunch of areas easier to access and made other jobs easier as well. After reading a fair bit about body mounts on this site I can certainly see that 2" and over is probably going to cause more trouble than it's worth but for what I want to do a 1" body lift has made everything much easier.

Today I got started in on. The rear shock mounts. I raised the fronts by 50mm so I wanted to remake the tears with a 50mm extension as well. Used a bit of 60mm diameter 3mm wall pipe to make the mounts and then cut the pins out of the old mounts so I can weld them in.





The amateur engineer in me was all paranoid about making sure the pins were parallel and exactly the same height, etc. what I realised in the end was that it didn't really matter. The factory mounts are in different places because the mounts on the axle are in different spots, the drivers side is much closer to the middle than the passenger. What I ended up doing was positioning my mounts roughly where the old mounts were (within about +-5mm) and then letting the shocks dictate the angle of the pin, they ended up both facing directly forward (+-10 degrees).

Ran out of time to weld it all up but will hopefully get that done tomorrow night and then I'll post some more pics. Should also get my chassis braces welded in tomorrow as well.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
712 Posts
Discussion Starter · #76 ·
For some reason I just couldn't leave the rear suspension mounts alone. I kept thinking that I had got something wrong so I decided to work it all out. My original thought had been that I was going to put 2" springs in with 4" shock absorbers so I needed to raise the height of the mount by 2", 2" of spring lift + 2" of shock mount lift = 4", it seemed logical at the time.

So here is the math that made me change my mind. Note that I have no tray and no rear fuel tank so the back of the car is sitting pretty much as high as it can.
The shock absorbers are Ironman Foam Cell Pro's in 4". There open length is 718mm and there closed length is 448mm.
Between the plate on the diff and the tip of the bumpstop is 230mm.
The bumpstop is 75mm high. I have assumed that the bumpstop could potentially compress by 50%, so it could end up being 37.5mm high.
That gives me 267.5mm of potential compression before it all stops.

With the mount raised by 50mm I got a pin to pin measurement of 685mm. So if the pin to pin is 685 and it compresses the full 267.5mm then the compressed pin to pin will be 417.5, which means that about 30mm ago I will have needed new rear shocks.

If I raise the mount by 90mm I get a pin to pin measurement of 720. So with 267.5mm of compression I get a compressed pin to pin of 452.5, in theory that gives me happy shocks.

What I dont know and cant find on the internet is any recommendations for setting up shocks that indicate a preferred ratio of down to up travel. As it currently sits the shocks have 0 down travel left but they also have no weight on them. Once I add the fuel tank back in (~90kg when full), the steel tray (~120Kg) + 2 x spare tires (~40kg) it should sit down a bit and however much it comes down that will be the amount of down travel I have.

If anyone has got some insights on this I would like to hear them because I am honestly a bit lost on it.
 

·
Anger management pi$$es me off
nissan
Joined
·
7,539 Posts
The outside ones are but the inside ones are fairly ****, I just couldn't get the torch in there. I am confident that given the amount of weight that will be sitting on them they will hold.
There is no way they could be any worse than the factory welds, I think some of the workers might have had their eyes closed when they were welding.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The old Japanese saftey squint was the man method used when welding our chassis
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
2,588 Posts
I guess you need to get a wheel flexed to where you reckon you want it then measure that that will be your fully closed height then see where it lets that drop to and see if your happy

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
 
61 - 80 of 81 Posts
Top