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nissan gq
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96 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys,

Was looking for a bit of advice on how to go about installing my new liift.

Currently has a 2 inch which I did myself, but now upgrading to a 4 inch so theres all the other bits and pieces to go with it. Which are drop boxes, adj panhards and draglink, longer lower control arms, plus brake lines,etc, etc.

Shocks and springs are straight forward, but what should I tackle first, was thinking work a side at a time, dropbox, spring then shock, the switch to the other side and repeat. Then install panhard and draglink. Then move to the rear, lower control arm, spring then shock, repeat on other side, then the panhard.

Any advice would be great, as the local 4x4 wants $600 to install, which I dont wanna pay when I can learn something myself.

ALso how to go about setting up the right length for the panhards, and is the draglink just a matter of striaghtening up ya wheels, remove the old 1, make sure the steering arms straight, then fit the new one?

Cheers in advance
 

· Registered
nissan
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325 Posts
well its hard ot explain cuz i dont know your skill level but here goes.
If you have already fitted up a two inch lift then you know the basics. best way to do the front is lift the whole front of the vehicle up enough that suspension fully bottoms out just remember to loosen your panhard bolts and as ur jacking up keep feeling it and will will come loose should be able to find happy medium between where it sits and when its fully flexed up that it will feel loose and be able to come out easily. this way you can do both sides at once when replacing steering arms, set wheels as straight as possible remove tie rod ends from steering knuckle by removing hte split pin and loosen nut down to bottom of thread but dont remove then you need to hit the steering knucle where the tie rod end mounts to with a hammer. thast why you leave nut on as to not damage thread when you hit it, hit hte knuckle a couple of time then hit the steering arm to see if its loose may take a fair bit of effort. dont be afraid of giving it a good hammering. do this to both sides and remove somplete steering arfm then remove tie rods ends from shaft, hint try to count he amount of turns as you wind it out so you can wind it in the same amount of turns on the new arm so you should be close to where it should be. just remember when your replacing front arms try putting a jack under diff to lift it and move it around to get bolts out and in. once fitted drop vehicle down onto ground then measure distance between panhard mounting bolts and set new rod to that langth then fit making sure that diff is sitting central to vehicle ie not sitting out further on one side compared to other. double chack everything making sure its tight. brake lines are a matter of removing and replacing then bleeding the system this can be doen by simply opening barke nipples on each caliper nad letting it gravity bleed. or getting someone else to hold peddle down as you crack the nipple forcing he fluid through. if not sure ask a mechanic or someone who knows to help you. rear is pretty straight forward should be able to figure that out do it the same as front lift the whole car it will make it easier toget arms out as they wont be twisted or have load if it is a bit difficult try jacking up diff and moving it around to remove bolts. panhard is the sme lower vehicle back onto ground chech diff is central to vehicle measure holes and fit. then most important part go to wheel alignment profesionals not just mechanic that does wheel alignments but proper tyre place tell them what you have done adn get a full wheel alignment to get everything set properly. just remember to check your brakes before you go drivng down drive way.
hahaha done that before thank god the park brake worked hahaha

well i hope that helps you a bit and that im not too late.

Cheers Chris
 

· Go Hard or Go Home
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3,170 Posts
Adding spaces/paragraphs to text better clarification.

well its hard ot explain cuz i dont know your skill level but here goes.
If you have already fitted up a two inch lift then you know the basics. best way to do the front is lift the whole front of the vehicle up enough that suspension fully bottoms out just remember to loosen your panhard bolts and as ur jacking up keep feeling it and will will come loose should be able to find happy medium between where it sits and when its fully flexed up that it will feel loose and be able to come out easily. this way you can do both sides at once when replacing steering arms, set wheels as straight as possible remove tie rod ends from steering knuckle by removing hte split pin and loosen nut down to bottom of thread but dont remove then you need to hit the steering knucle where the tie rod end mounts to with a hammer. thast why you leave nut on as to not damage thread when you hit it, hit hte knuckle a couple of time then hit the steering arm to see if its loose may take a fair bit of effort. dont be afraid of giving it a good hammering. do this to both sides and remove somplete steering arfm then remove tie rods ends from shaft, hint try to count he amount of turns as you wind it out so you can wind it in the same amount of turns on the new arm so you should be close to where it should be. just remember when your replacing front arms try putting a jack under diff to lift it and move it around to get bolts out and in. once fitted drop vehicle down onto ground then measure distance between panhard mounting bolts and set new rod to that langth then fit making sure that diff is sitting central to vehicle ie not sitting out further on one side compared to other. double chack everything making sure its tight. brake lines are a matter of removing and replacing then bleeding the system this can be doen by simply opening barke nipples on each caliper nad letting it gravity bleed. or getting someone else to hold peddle down as you crack the nipple forcing he fluid through. if not sure ask a mechanic or someone who knows to help you. rear is pretty straight forward should be able to figure that out do it the same as front lift the whole car it will make it easier toget arms out as they wont be twisted or have load if it is a bit difficult try jacking up diff and moving it around to remove bolts. panhard is the sme lower vehicle back onto ground chech diff is central to vehicle measure holes and fit. then most important part go to wheel alignment profesionals not just mechanic that does wheel alignments but proper tyre place tell them what you have done adn get a full wheel alignment to get everything set properly. just remember to check your brakes before you go drivng down drive way.
hahaha done that before thank god the park brake worked hahaha

well i hope that helps you a bit and that im not too late.
Cheers Chris
Confused the bejesus out of me so I modified yours again. Not knocking you mate.

Quote>
Well its hard ot explain cuz i dont know your skill level but here goes.

If you have already fitted up a two inch lift then you know the basics.

Best way to do the front is lift the whole front of the vehicle up enough that suspension fully bottoms out, just remember to loosen your panhard bolts and as ur jacking up, keep feeling it and it will come loose, should be able to find happy medium between where it sits and when its fully flexed up that it will feel loose and be able to come out easily.
This way you can do both sides at once when replacing steering arms.

Set wheels as straight as possible remove tie rod ends from steering knuckle by removing the split pin and loosen nut down to bottom of thread, but dont remove, then you need to hit the steering knucle where the tie rod end mounts to with a hammer.

Thats why you leave nut on as to not damage thread when you hit it, hit the knuckle a couple of time then hit the steering arm to see if its loose, may take a fair bit of effort.

Dont be afraid of giving it a good hammering. Do this to both sides and remove complete steering arm then remove tie rods ends from shaft, hint try to count he amount of turns as you wind it out so you can wind it in the same amount of turns on the new arm so you should be close to where it should be.

Just remember when your replacing front arms try putting a jack under diff to lift it and move it around to get bolts out and in.

Once fitted, drop vehicle down onto ground then measure distance between panhard mounting bolts and set new rod to that length then fit making sure that diff is sitting central to vehicle, ie not sitting out further on one side compared to other.

Double check everything making sure its tight.

Brake lines are a matter of removing and replacing then bleeding the system this can be done by simply opening barke nipples on each caliper and letting it gravity bleed, or getting someone else to hold peddle down as you crack the nipple forcing he fluid through.

If not sure, ask a mechanic or someone who knows to help you.

Rear is pretty straight forward, should be able to figure that out, do it the same as front lift the whole car it will make it easier to get arms out as they wont be twisted or have load, if it is a bit difficult try jacking up diff and moving it around to remove bolts.

Panhard is the sme lower vehicle back onto ground chech diff is central to vehicle measure holes and fit. The most important part go to wheel alignment profesionals not just mechanic that does wheel alignments but proper tyre place tell them what you have done and get a full wheel alignment to get everything set properly.

Just remember to check your brakes before you go drivng down drive way.
hahaha done that before thank god the park brake worked hahaha

Well i hope that helps you a bit and that im not too late. Quote<


Again, not taking the piss mate. Just making it easier for myself & others to understand.
 
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