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2001 TB48 GU Patrol
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248 Posts
Hey, I tried doing the diode mod today, unfortunately I mucked up and get a 1000ohm resistor instead. It drives really well and seems to have more power with lower egts. Hasn't thrown any codes either. Should I change it to a diode instead or keep going with the resistor?
 

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nissan patrol gq
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309 Posts
Resistor is fine if it's working for you. I run a resistor in mine as I didn't have issues with a high reading at idle. I wanted to try to drop the reading at high revs and full load to prevent limp but keep as much signal as possible at idle for good take off.


Sent from somewhere I wish I wasn't.
 

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nissan patrol
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547 Posts
Enter scratch head here----> Well I tinkered for 2 hrs or so today and ended up putting things back the way I found them. For $1.30 I bought an array of resistors from our mates at Jaycar in a lead up to further things down the track.

What did I achieve? absolutely nothing. Zip, Nadda and zero. MAF voltage stayed the same at idle with every resistor put in place. Cudos to the lads that it worked for.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Enter scratch head here----> Well I tinkered for 2 hrs or so today and ended up putting things back the way I found them. For $1.30 I bought an array of resistors from our mates at Jaycar in a lead up to further things down the track.

What did I achieve? absolutely nothing. Zip, Nadda and zero. MAF voltage stayed the same at idle with every resistor put in place. Cudos to the lads that it worked for.
Well mate, I still don't understand the reason for doing it this way, if it does work it is linear, no flexibility to play!!!!!!!!!

Maybe it's just me, I dunno.
 

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nissan patrol
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Baby steps.

Good thing it didn't work then:) But in return gives me absolutely 100% no confidence in me trying to build a JdvM, so she stays the way she's been for years now.
 
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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Baby steps.

Good thing it didn't work then:) But in return gives me absolutely 100% no confidence in me trying to build a JdvM, so she stays the way she's been for years now.
PM sent.
 

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nissan
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A Diode to modify the MAF voltage is still working very well for me, but seems to have mixed results for others.
This makes me wonder why results vary across the board.
One thing that I can think of is that I have an aftermarket MAF sensor, not an original one.
Another variable is that I live in Italy, close to the sea. Cooler, denser air may make some difference?

Cheers,
B&B
 

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nissan patrol gr
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920 Posts
Nobody told me if this can work in place of Jaycar. Amazon.com: Dual Edge MAP / MAF Sensor Enhancer HHO Water4Gas EFIE: Automotive

I opened a thread about that part but nobody said nothing (lol)

I think this might be the solution for fix maf voltage . Or is it not. Plz someone with a little knowledge can say something.... plz?

Yesterday I wrote to these guys JMS - Products - Mass Air Modifierâ„¢ - MAF Signal Modifier - Ford - Mass Air Modifier - JMS

to see if they can work on a maf voltage fixer for the ZD30. It would be good that others write to them and invite them to read the forum, perhaps we can have a quality piece in the future, technically proven and fail-safe for those who think in blocking EGT, increasing the diameter of exhaust and put a larger intercooler.

IF geeutoo has dyslexia in electronics (he is an expert) many guys here are illiterate in electronics, so make a own electronic board of jaycar is for us the hardest way to walk.

Cheers
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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How many are you up to now ? Motomuzz the JDVM makes a massive difference. Mine was a breeze to build :p:rolleyes:
I think the one I'm doing now is #12........
 

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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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839 Posts
I inserted today one, and then two Schottky diodes in serie at the input of the MAF sensor to ECU ( pin 35). This reduced voltage across the MAF range. ( from 2.16 down to 1.93V, and 4.2 down to 3.9)

I have EGR blocked and 3" exhaust.
No more limps.
Linear pressure and MAF reading increase with RPMs.

I have also now experienced a "pressure actuator wastegate" to get rid of the vacuum one, and therefore suppressed the dawes and two Needles arrangement I had in place ( to get something really easy to install, and forget ).

This opens slowly the VNT from 750mbar on, and lets the pressure continue to go up nicely, whilst staying below 1.1 bar. No more tweeking. It is exactly what I was looking for.
 

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nissan patrol gq
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That’s pretty much where I ended up. I did have more more boost though and a pretty aggressive spool rate.
Then added a chip to get more fuel back in under heavy throttle.
 

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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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Thanks for the feedback.

My spool rate is quite agressive too.

I was wondering if I could play with the fuel temperature value to get the ECU to inject more fuel, therefore without the need to use a chip.
I have understood that the ECU was using different maps depending upon the fuel temperature.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Thanks for the feedback.

My spool rate is quite agressive too.

I was wondering if I could play with the fuel temperature value to get the ECU to inject more fuel, therefore without the need to use a chip.
I have understood that the ECU was using different maps depending upon the fuel temperature.

Yes that is true but complicated, if you work that out satisfactorily let us know. What must be realised is that any reduction in MAFv = a drop in fuel supply, that is why the remap option was such a boon to us, I have 22psi by 1700rpm which is quite aggressive, with my MAFv modifier I developed over 20 MAF maps to allow me to achieve higher spool without limp as I improved my ZD30DI, I could still achieve that spoolup but not with the same amount of fuel to give me the torque down low I was after. So it's horses for courses.


My 2 cents worth.
 

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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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839 Posts
Hi, many thanks for this reply.
I am not keen to remap, as in my country, I would have difficulties to trust somebody to un-solder and then solder the new ECU PROMs. Some have tried, with little success. Not to mention the price (around $1600).
As far as I am concerned, the EGR blocking is getting the MAF to go up by 0.2V when Idle, and the 3" exhaust and additional 0.1V. This is what is creating limp at higher Revs.

The idea of playing with the fuel temperature, is to take benefit of deceiving the ECU, and force it to use another fuel injection MAP ( if it works that way), hoping it would not affect the advance ( not sure it is the right english word), just the quantity of fuel injected.

EGR blocking allows more fresh air to be asborbed through the air intake, which is not bad for a better combustion, but at the expense of the raise in MAF voltage. Reducing MAF voltage reduces fuel injection a bit, but at the same time, previously, it was the same amount injected, with less oxygen, so all in all, I am not sure it creates any drama.

What I wish I knew, is whether or not the fuel temperature coming from the sensor inside the IP is used by the IP directly to adjust the fuel injection flow, or is it sent to the ECU which then gives appropriate instruct to the IP.

If the later, then I can find a way to modify the fuel temperature, otherwise, there is no way.

Most of my friends in our French Patrol site have a kitpower add-on to increase the quantity of fuel delivered by the IP, by intercepting and modifying the orders sent by the ECU to the IP.

You have understood that I was trying to find another way.

Cheers Geeyoutoo.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Hi, many thanks for this reply.
I am not keen to remap, as in my country, I would have difficulties to trust somebody to un-solder and then solder the new ECU PROMs. Some have tried, with little success. Not to mention the price (around $1600).
As far as I am concerned, the EGR blocking is getting the MAF to go up by 0.2V when Idle, and the 3" exhaust and additional 0.1V. This is what is creating limp at higher Revs.

The idea of playing with the fuel temperature, is to take benefit of deceiving the ECU, and force it to use another fuel injection MAP ( if it works that way), hoping it would not affect the advance ( not sure it is the right english word), just the quantity of fuel injected.

EGR blocking allows more fresh air to be asborbed through the air intake, which is not bad for a better combustion, but at the expense of the raise in MAF voltage. Reducing MAF voltage reduces fuel injection a bit, but at the same time, previously, it was the same amount injected, with less oxygen, so all in all, I am not sure it creates any drama.

What I wish I knew, is whether or not the fuel temperature coming from the sensor inside the IP is used by the IP directly to adjust the fuel injection flow, or is it sent to the ECU which then gives appropriate instruct to the IP.

If the later, then I can find a way to modify the fuel temperature, otherwise, there is no way.

Most of my friends in our French Patrol site have a kitpower add-on to increase the quantity of fuel delivered by the IP, by intercepting and modifying the orders sent by the ECU to the IP.

You have understood that I was trying to find another way.

Cheers Geeyoutoo.
Yes I understand, I have spent most of my life trying to find alternate ways to do things, I have developed and fine tuned many things for our ZD30's over the years. EGR block only works in the areas where EGR normally operates, EGR does not function right throughout the rev range, yes sure idle goes up from around 1.9 to 2.1v but at say 2000 it makes no difference. I have hundreds of pages of ECU readouts in exel from developing various bits for my old girl. The guy who does most of our remaps here in Australia has also supplied some of our members in the UK and in Europe, I can give you an email address so you can have a chat with him if you like and it will be a lot cheaper than what you have indicated.
 

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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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I have seen many of you posts, and videos on the net. Very very helpful. Thank you to you and all the members of this site. We have a similar community in France called www.PATROL-GR.net. Some of the photos on this site come direct from the French site. Not many of us speak English, and very few australian ( ah ah ah) mate. But we all surf quite extensively.
My old lady is running beautifully, only 160 000km from 2000. First owner. I have to replace injectors. IP is fine so far, but others have experienced problems. Many of us now put 1L of 2st oil every 6 months, to keep it a bit lubricated as fuel is quite "dry" these days.
I do put injectors cleaner every 2 or 3 tanks also. and I run 100km with between 8.6 to 10.5 litres. Not bad.
Power I get out of it is fine for what I do. I have it now tuned with a 10$ chinese "wastegate actuator" connected to the IC, and diodes on MAF line at the input of ECU to compensate for EGR and 3". I will try soon another 10$ actuator, to get more boost as it will open the VNT more slowly (different spring). That's the easy bit. As more air will require more fuel... If need be I will put a voltage modifier connected to the RPM to control and suppress the limp modes as you did if they re-appear then, as If I don't let the MAF go higher at 2500/3000 with higher boost, I won't get enough fuel injected.

As I now see, we all have gone through the same analysis, ECUtalk, Nissan data scan 1 acquisitions and tuning / trials.

Funny to see so many clever (and sharing) guys all around the world !
Cheers mate.

PS : Did you find any way to overcome the altitude problem ?
Above 2000m ( I drove up to 2800m), the air density ( barometer is down to 700mbar) and lack of oxygen make the lady lazy.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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I have seen many of you posts, and videos on the net. Very very helpful. Thank you to you and all the members of this site. We have a similar community in France called www.PATROL-GR.net. Some of the photos on this site come direct from the French site. Not many of us speak English, and very few australian ( ah ah ah) mate. But we all surf quite extensively.
My old lady is running beautifully, only 160 000km from 2000. First owner. I have to replace injectors. IP is fine so far, but others have experienced problems. Many of us now put 1L of 2st oil every 6 months, to keep it a bit lubricated as fuel is quite "dry" these days.
I do put injectors cleaner every 2 or 3 tanks also. and I run 100km with between 8.6 to 10.5 litres. Not bad.
Power I get out of it is fine for what I do. I have it now tuned with a 10$ chinese "wastegate actuator" connected to the IC, and diodes on MAF line at the input of ECU to compensate for EGR and 3". I will try soon another 10$ actuator, to get more boost as it will open the VNT more slowly (different spring). That's the easy bit. As more air will require more fuel... If need be I will put a voltage modifier connected to the RPM to control and suppress the limp modes as you did if they re-appear then, as If I don't let the MAF go higher at 2500/3000 with higher boost, I won't get enough fuel injected.

As I now see, we all have gone through the same analysis, ECUtalk, Nissan data scan 1 acquisitions and tuning / trials.

Funny to see so many clever (and sharing) guys all around the world !
Cheers mate.

PS : Did you find any way to overcome the altitude problem ?
Above 2000m ( I drove up to 2800m), the air density ( barometer is down to 700mbar) and lack of oxygen make the lady lazy.

Cool.
Turbo's and altitude don't mix the best.
 
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