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nissan
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

First of all, thanks for everyone who helped me out on my question whether or not to run a UHF from the power of my "electrical chairs". I directly wired the UHF to the battery so can enjoy it while the ignition is off.

Now for the next stage in our build, I just bought a small fridge/freezer (Waeco CDF-35). I am planning on directly wiring this unit to the battery as well. Please note, there is virtually no room under the bonnet for a 2nd battery (being a 4500 petrol with ABS). I actually would rather not go into the dual battery system anyway. I'm now looking at running a RAPS 12r-u2 unit from the battery to the rear of the car to power the fridge. Apparently, it will cut out once the voltage drops below a certain limit, and that would hopefully mean I could still start the car the next day would I forget to shut off the fridge during the night. Anyone thinks I'm crazy? Would there be similar products I would have to look into? How about the ARB DC Fridge Wiring loom of $52 (less than half the price of the Waeco wiring), could you build a low voltage cutout into that? Alternatively, I was considering a Sidewinder Flyer but the price (almost 400 without a battery) puts me off a bit.
Shall I go for just the direct wiring with low voltage cut out? Any suggestions?
Cheers,

Joostoz
 

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NISSAN GU PATROL
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I dont know about your CDF-35 but my CF-50 has a low voltage cutout built in (3 Levels).

But if it dont have the low voltage cutout built in and you dont want a second battery i guess the RAPS is the go.

Is there a reason you dont want a second battery ?
You could put it in the back in a battery box and make it removable. If its just the fridge your running and depending on how long you plan to run it you may not need such a big battery.

If its only for day trips you dont even need the dual batt system, Just get a battery and put it on your charger at home and then put it in the back of your 4x4 and it should run that fridge for a couple of days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Actually, the fridge comes with the cutout as well, 3 settings... so that would mean the RAPS unit may be overdoing it a bit.
 

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Well, Thats the purpose of the cutout built into the fridge.
Just run some cable from your batt to a socket in the back where you want the fridge.
Make sure you fuse it.
 

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GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
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I don't like your idea of using the cranking battery. They are not designed the same as a deep cycle battery, so do not like being slowly discharged as you intend. This will reduce the longevity of your battery. And then one day........... it won't start.

The low voltage cutouts will not prevent the gradual decline of the main battery in my opinion, and if they do work then your beer gets warm anyway!

You need a deep cycle battery. If under the bonnet is no go, you can mount one in the rear with the fridge and run the wiring back to the engine bay.
 

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I would have to agree with GQshayne.

However if its just once in a blue moon i wouldnt bother with the full setup.
I ran my cf-50 for half a day on a fishing trip, still had plenty of power to crank the starter.

But if i was to use it more often i would get a propper setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, we'll be on the road for 2 weeks over Christmas, which also means that we'll be driving at least 4 hours a day I'd think. But to install a full blown dual battery system for a 2 week trip would be a bit hard to sell to my better half... Maybe just buy one of those booster packs to make sure I can jumpstart the car if we would accidentally run the battery a bit low (although with the battery protection that shouldn't really happen).
 

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It is easy to put a low voltage cut out in the line to the fridge and have it cut out at 11.7 volts. I have a dual battery system in my patrol but we quite often travel in my wife's astra and I have a low voltage cut out in that. I have set it to cut out at 11.7 volts and it runs my 40l engel for about 40 hours off the little torch battery before it cuts out and still easily starts the car. I have been using it for about 2 years on and off and the battery has been fine. Let me know if you want me to describe how to do it.
 

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LED ZEPPELIN
1995 GQ TD42 NA
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I had some issues with my second battery wiring on Fraser last week and for one night I ran the fridge off the starter battery - next day, no starty. That's a 60 litre Waeco, but still...

I'd be putting a second battery in the back with an ABR Sidewinder (or Redarc) isolator and associated wiring. You will need to use heavy stuff to reduce voltage drop and keep it operating efficiently.

ABR Sidewinder isolator - $150
Battery - $250 (or buy or borrow a good used one)
Battery box $30
Extra wiring - $50?

Seriously, once you are set up for plug and play with your fridge, you will use it a lot. Money well spent. And Shane is correct, the starter battery won't be happy about constant overnight discharge, if you take the cheap option and kill it then the cheap option won't look so cheap ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, I am actually thing about the following setup now:
Run a wire (Raps 12R-U2, with hella and ciggie outlet) from mains to rear. Buy Waeco 36AH Raps 36 battery pack. Charge pack / run fridge from the Raps 12R-U2 while driving and run fridge from the battery pack when idle. This way, there's no way that my main starter battery will be run dry and my fridge can run 24/7 as long as we keep driving a bit every day (which is what we are planning anyway). On days when we want to stay at a place and not take the fridge, the 36AH pack can keep the beers cold until we return. Idea?!?
 

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That last idea should work. I bought an 'emergency battery' when we lived in USA. 28Ah AGM battery in a case with a small inverter, light, radio, cig plug, and anderson plug that connects to jumper cables for jump starting. We lived there for 2 1/2 years and it powered our 40L Waeco for all our camping trips, including a 5 week camping trip up into Canada. We simply plugged the battery and fridge both into car cig plugs when we started the car. Both went off with ignition, so we couldn't accidently flatten the battery, and when we stopped, we unplugged both from the car and plugged them into each other. The battery was good for up to about 24hrs. If we weren't driving for a good 5 hrs or so in the day, it struggled, but the Weaco cut out before killing it, then we'd just turn it down to freeze and run the engine for 20 mins in the evening and go overnight with it unplugged. You can get by if you need to!

If you're going to run it off the starter battery just relying on a low voltage switch in the longer term, I'd switch the standard cranking battery out for a marine / composite battery such as Exide Extreme or Supercharge Allrounder. These batterys will handle both cranking duties and deep cycling fairly well (jack of all trades).

Ideally though, I'd still be considering options for an auxillery battery - even if its in the cargo area. You'll probably rig up a descent sized sealed battery in the rear for a similar price as the small battery pack you referred to; we only went this way as we got it damn cheap in the states and we were looking for a fairly short term solution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I decided to go for the Waeco 36AH pack. I know there are some pros and cons about this one, but it's a nice little unit, fits snugly behind the rear seat and is kept in place by the straps of my daughters child restraint seat so it won't go walkabout (hopefully). 3 nights until our trip, hopefully the Oodnadatta track will still be open (they're expecting rain). Merry Christmas to all!
 
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