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Allergic to IFS
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Patrol 4x4.com

Yet again i come on bended knee for advice.

I'm going to finally install my 2" body lift in my 88 GQ, it is a TD42 manual if that is important. This is a list of stuff i think i'll have to look at to make sure it doesn't foul/break/stuff up. Is there anything i have missed, am i being overly cautious? there must be plenty of GQ owners who have done this before. any advice is great to hear.

* Clutch master - slave hose
* Brake lines body - chassis
* Wiring to tail lights/in cab
* Radiator hoses
* Fuel Hoses
* Fuel Filler - tank
* Batteries to Body/engine
*Snorkel to engine.

Cheers Lads and Ladies.

P.S i tried the search bar but got nothing of any use, i guess the system is only as good as the operator lol.

Andy
 

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1. bend your clutch slave cylender line bracket down, that will give you enough clearance, i used a hammer and some other tools to massage said bracket.

2. had enough clearance when i did it

3. heaps of play in the wiring

4. your hoses should be fine, how ever you need to remove the lower shroud or your fan will hit it, it should just unclip.

5. fuel hoses are fine, your filler line will be stretched a little but should have adequate play.

6. i had a fair bit of play in the the wiring so my batterys were sweet.

7. i had a flexible pipe so there was no issue there..

you should also loosen your steering coloumn at the steering box, i suggest CRCing these the day before as they have not been undone most likley for the last 20 years.

also buy a blowthorch from bunnings for $50 and get on the back nuts for about 30s untill you can see and smell the loctite melting then just rattle gun the fark out of it.

i suggest undo all bolts and do one side at a time.
 

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Allergic to IFS
nissan
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the great help guys. much appreciated
 

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Enemy of Reality
nissan 09 gu patrol
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Why you wanna do thart?

oh: to keep it on task (to avoid the yom's stick)...

beware of the shift levers fouling on interior trim.
 

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nissan
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Hello Patrol 4x4.com

Yet again i come on bended knee for advice.

I'm going to finally install my 2" body lift in my 88 GQ, it is a TD42 manual if that is important. This is a list of stuff i think i'll have to look at to make sure it doesn't foul/break/stuff up. Is there anything i have missed, am i being overly cautious? there must be plenty of GQ owners who have done this before. any advice is great to hear.

* Clutch master - slave hose
* Brake lines body - chassis
* Wiring to tail lights/in cab
* Radiator hoses
* Fuel Hoses
* Fuel Filler - tank
* Batteries to Body/engine
*Snorkel to engine.

Cheers Lads and Ladies.

P.S i tried the search bar but got nothing of any use, i guess the system is only as good as the operator lol.

Andy
Your also forgetting transport dept. approval, not that most people care just thought i'd add it in there. And as said above definitely use a rattle gun on those back bolts, if your lucky you might not even have to heat them up (I didn't).
 

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Allergic to IFS
nissan
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nice info, Thanks for the hints about the shift levers too, i probably would have totally forgotten about that. Also Dept of transport approval, true, i was putting that to the back of my mind trying to forget about legalitieas and all that. kinda makes it pointess having any insurance though huh. Good point.
 

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Allergic to IFS
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Patrol28, i'm guessing from your avatar of Camp Road LCMP you may be a brisbane dweller also, who did your approval and if so was it costly??? feel free to PM answer if you'd prefer.

Cheers, Andy
 

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Previously known as twodiffs
1991 GQ Safari.
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3,684 Posts
I'm flicking through this quickly so excuse me if i'm saying something that is noted already.

When you put the blocks in, disgard the oem 10mm bolts and use 12mm HT with nyloc nuts instead. They will fit without any drilling needed.

my 2c.
 

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KICKEN BACK IN THE BUSH
nissan gq
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4,690 Posts
Becareful with the clutch line
Even bending the bracket on the firewall doesnt quite do the job
Ive got a few patrols here with the body lift ,
Brackets bashed downwards and the hoses are splitting and fraying
IF the GQs have the removeable floor plate around the shifters like the MQ/MKs
Just remove and elongate the front edge of the holes
But then the shifter boots no longer fit
Wiring should be fine,as well as fuel lines and hoses
Bottom rad shroud removed as mentioned
Steering shaft to steering box wee adjustment
(Some dont do this , but it flogs out the rubber joint there)

Another thing to check
Make sure the bullbar bar dont restrict your headlight lighting
 

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Patrol28, i'm guessing from your avatar of Camp Road LCMP you may be a brisbane dweller also, who did your approval and if so was it costly??? feel free to PM answer if you'd prefer.

Cheers, Andy

I lived on the sunshine coast all my life until 3 yrs ago, now in central qld, so sorry can't help you with anyone down there, the approval was about 70 bucks
 

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you might need to cut interior of gear stik surround to get it in low/high range
just my 2 cents worth
 

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want some real advice?

Firstly Dont do it! there is no need for a body lift. your going to have over heating issues with the bottom half of the shroud missing. there will be more chance of the cab mounts cracking.
4'' suspention lift is plenty of room for 35''s and you can fit 37''s if you chop the guards.
dont be a sheep and follow everyone else. apart from ''coz he has one'' what advantage are you getting?


secondly. If you do it. dont listen to anyone who says just chop the gears stick boot out of the way. cut ur gearsticks and lift them the same as ur body lift at the bottom most vertical point. that way you keep all the original boots and you cab doesn't become an oven from all the hot air blowing up from underneeth and when in deep water its doesnt flood the cab out in 2 seconds. theres a few threads around about people crying about hot air from there stick surounds, If they wern't butchers in the first place they wouldnt have the problem
 

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Dont forget your exhaust mine cracked at the extractors because of the lift.
also use the nylon/nolathane mounts that are one piece as the alloy/steel ones flex and crack your body mounts, nylon flexes too but won't crack them because they're softer.
i was told not to lift the body by several ex-panel beaters because of this, but that was using alloy blocks, they didn't have much of a problem with me using the nylon ones.
 

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Don't bend your clutch line bracket. Go to your local parts bloke and get a rear brake hose off the old ford lasers. Has the same fittings but is about 4in longer. Think it cost me $20
 

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just my 2 cents worth,

i have seen about 3 GQ's (shortys and wagons) crack the body, in the engine bay around shockie mounts and close to the fire wlal due to body blocks alloy and nylon, IMHO i wouldnt touch them, i have 4" spring and 33 and they tuck very well, have ran 35's with out extending bump stops, depending how much medium to harrd stuff ya do i recon ya will be ringing insurance company in about 8 months asking for a new body...
 

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andy,have you done your body lift yet?
your truck is big enough now without it.
oh and we need to catch up for a black beer or six!
 

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just my 2 cents worth,

i have seen about 3 GQ's (shortys and wagons) crack the body, in the engine bay around shockie mounts and close to the fire wlal due to body blocks alloy and nylon, IMHO i wouldnt touch them, i have 4" spring and 33 and they tuck very well, have ran 35's with out extending bump stops, depending how much medium to harrd stuff ya do i recon ya will be ringing insurance company in about 8 months asking for a new body...
Bodylift has nothing to do with the cab cracking, vibration does it. The wieght of the battery cracks the inner guards too. I have seen many stock wagons and SWB do the body mounts and my ute cracked the inner guard from the battery, all without body lifts.

My ute has been body lifted for 10 years and driven hard with no cracks. There are benifiets to a bodylift but that is more than just bolting in blocks. I would use solid blocks over flexable ones, the standard vibration insullator is enough without adding extra distortion of a flexable mount. Nylon or hard platic type blocks can crack and all blocks not solid steel or all should have a washer each side to cover the whole surface and a crush tube to stop the block collapsing.
 
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