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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I have a Nissan Safari Y61 TB45E 4.5 Automatic Trans and everything was going fine until oil started mixing in my radiator, i knew it was a cooler problem so i got my radiator fixed by an experienced handyman/shop and topped off my transmission fluid by 1 liter. 4 days later when im driving, the accelarator and rpm would go up but the car wouldnt budge. Now i thought im in a bit of a problem because my country doesnt have any nissan vehicles and the parts are generally imported from uae.
Now when i checked my transmission fluid, it was dark and burnt.
The car still moves for 5 seconds after its been started but the same rpm problem starts again.
I would like to change the transmission fluid on it and dont know what i should get. The mech who had put the dexron 6 atf suggests i put the same one again after draining the whole thing.
can someone suggest what needs to go into my nissan? im extremely confused and bit of a noob.
Please help if you can. This is the Safari in question:
20180704_120330.jpg
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Any quality Auto fluid will do the job, I think you should change it and see what happens, you may have a bigger issue. I notice the Pakistan Flag so not sure what brands would be available there.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Any quality Auto fluid will do the job, I think you should change it and see what happens, you may have a bigger issue. I notice the Pakistan Flag so not sure what brands would be available there.
Thank you for your response, Pakistan has all kinds of oil. Please guide me, is dexron good? transmission oil or atf?
show me what is generally used so i can find something similar here.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Thank you for your response, Pakistan has all kinds of oil. Please guide me, is dexron good? transmission oil or atf?
show me what is generally used so i can find something similar here.
Here's a listing from a Spares shop here in AU, if you can get castrol dex III over there then that will be fine. you will need to flush all the old fluid. Not sure how auto trans mechanics are where you are but maybe worth getting a good one to look at it, definitely don't go back to the one you have just been to.

 

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Urgent attention is necessary to where the auto fluid goes through the bottom of the radiator and warms or cools to the temperature of the coolant. Oil in coolant and then I suspect coolant in oil will 'kill' your Auto. That being said it may not be too late. Pull the hoses off the bottom of the radiator where the auto transmission fluid passes through and secure your auto transmission lines or plug. Simply observe if coolant leaks out of the line that carries the auto fluid through the radiator. If so then replace the radiator entirely. Change out all hoses at the same time and flush the system. It is not necessary to have the Auto fluid going through the radiator. Bypass may be better.

Importantly the fluid in your Auto is literally 'toast'. I replaced the fluid in my rear diff with the LSD playing up all the time and with quality LSD fluid and Nulon and works perfectly. Perhaps you will be lucky. To flush my auto I disconnected where I have indicated above from the line exiting the auto and entering the radiator and ran the motor without moving the car and flushed about one liter having previously overfilled the auto with 1 litre more fluid. First of course check the level of the Auto on the dipstick for the Auto. Do NOT continue to run the Auto while collecting and filling as you will run the Auto dry and ruin it. You have to collect the used Auto fluid and watch the colour until it turns red from the black you describe. Certainly this is your best chance of recovering the Auto. I would add Nulon (PTFE) treatment to the Auto fluid to give it its best chance.

Do a fluid transplant on all fluids in the vehicle. If Auto is toast in fluid then servicing is poor. Don't forget the power steering fluid and change in similar manner. You run the Auto through its different positions while running the motor for about 1 minute to get that 1 litre of fluid so all the passages are flushed in the Auto. Use Full Synthetic fluid of High Flash Point for best protection. Same fluid for Power Steering.

I would recommend you pull the Auto filter pan and replace as likely it is filthy as well.

You could save a few dollars by flushing with any suitable Auto fluid and see if it works rather than have a non functioning Auto with more expensive fluid.

Hope this assists,
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So im geared up to change the transmission fluid on my car, i even bought a scanner to check for all the errors.
Now i only need to know how much fluid do i need for the TB45E transmission? If i were to completely drain the old one. Please advise.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Mate, someone else may have exact figures but when you add the full capacity including the fluid coupling (torque converter) you could be looking at as much as 17L.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Mate, someone else may have exact figures but when you add the full capacity including the fluid coupling (torque converter) you could be looking at as much as 17L.
Wow thats alot of trans oil.
Anyway, i found something suitable. can you check if this will do?

it says:
Specifications and approvals
Allison C4 ∙ Caterpillar TO-2 ∙ Dexron III G ∙ Ford Mercon ∙ Voith H55.6335.XX (G 607) ∙ ZF TE-ML 04D ∙ ZF TE-ML 14A ∙ ZF TE-ML 17C
 

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1 litre, damned dear way to buy it but yes that will do, surely they make larger containers of it?
 
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