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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everybody.

On my Y60 I noticed a problem which I don't know the answer for...

When I'm driving in low speed, or breaking (often in the city), it often become very difficult to put car in the second or first gear... I tried double declutch and sometimes works. I didn't hear the gearbox yet, and the oil was checked and it's seems okay. The main bearing in gearbox was replaced last year. Now I really don't know what could be a problem? Maybe synchrones?

Any clues or similar problems?

Thanks for answering!

Have a nice day
Nejc
 

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Is it diesel? Maybe the vacume unit is playing up and wont let the clutch work properly
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, the engine is 2.8td diesel. Interesting thing is, that on other gears the clutch is working properly...thank's for advice, I'll check it also ;)

The main problem is, that when I want to put it in gear, it get's in for for a little, but than when I want to accelerate goes back to neutral...
 

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check your oil viscosity, too thick gave these same symptom in my gearbox after fitting my PTO unit.
 

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$40 for 4lts of transmission oil mate. Drop out the old, check the plug magnet for metal shavings then re fill it...i had a similar problem with stiff gears and the box throwing it kut of gear as soon as clutch is barely disengaged...drives like new. TD42
 

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if the engine doesnt work at good rpms the gear box gets hard, it happens to me with my tb42, when it has missfires and low rpms....the gear box is a stone.
 

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BORDERTREK 4X4 & FABRICATION
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Yes, the engine is 2.8td diesel. Interesting thing is, that on other gears the clutch is working properly...thank's for advice, I'll check it also ;)

The main problem is, that when I want to put it in gear, it get's in for for a little, but than when I want to accelerate goes back to neutral...
Often when there's a clutch problem (ie not fully disengaging) 1st, 2nd, and sometimes reverse gear are harder to select at first. It's a symptom on most cars when the clutch wont fully disengage.
The fact you said it usually works by doubling the clutch also points to a clutch problem. Could be worn syncro's on the other hand though but I'd be checking the clutch first.
 

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Thread dig as sounds similar to mine
But clutch and box back in for the first 1000k felt fine then while towing coming up to a tee felt like it was hard to get brakes and difficult to get into gears
Dropped oil and replaced with progear 75 85 was a bees dick of fine filings less then half a match heads worth.
Took off vac pump cleaned and replaced rubber rings didn't open pump thou,
Double clamped lines and still hard to get into 1st without double clutching and can be hard to get into 2nd off start, weird before works was fine now drives like s..t
Clutch only 8k old
Cheers jono
 

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nissan gq
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Thread dig as sounds similar to mine
But clutch and box back in for the first 1000k felt fine then while towing coming up to a tee felt like it was hard to get brakes and difficult to get into gears
Dropped oil and replaced with progear 75 85 was a bees dick of fine filings less then half a match heads worth.
Took off vac pump cleaned and replaced rubber rings didn't open pump thou,
Double clamped lines and still hard to get into 1st without double clutching and can be hard to get into 2nd off start, weird before works was fine now drives like s..t
Clutch only 8k old
Cheers jono
Certainly sounds like hydraulics,with the vehicle safe,have someone work the clutch pedal while you are underneath checking the length of travel of the fork.Engine off and not your MIL 😉
Loss of vacuum will only make the pedal heavier,not alter the length of stroke,😄 so forget that .Once you have fork travel,hold the pedal down and watch if the fork returns,if so there is bypass in the hydraulics,either cylinder.or both.There is adjustment for the master cylinder at the top of the pedal under the dash,if that is not allowing the piston to return competely,it will not have enough fluid to actuate the slave.
 

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Thanks @grumpyone
Found a slight problem, in the hast to get this trip underway I never double checked the work my mechanic brother inlaw who done up the bellhousing bolts to the box and guess what they were loose and were separating /twisting the two apart when engaging the clutch,
Found nice bloke in cooper pedy who had a hoist and workspace and 6.5hrs later had transfer off, box in and out transfer on and back on the road what a mission, now back like new
 

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Thanks @grumpyone
Found a slight problem, in the hast to get this trip underway I never double checked the work my mechanic brother inlaw who done up the bellhousing bolts to the box and guess what they were loose and were separating /twisting the two apart when engaging the clutch,
Found nice bloke in cooper pedy who had a hoist and workspace and 6.5hrs later had transfer off, box in and out transfer on and back on the road what a mission, now back like new
Nightmare,begs the question,why was the bellhousing off the box,? I have a habit,when a bolt/nut is started,it is either obviously not on/in so it's easily seen,or it's tightened fully.Lessons taken from past discoveries like yours ;)
 

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Yes I'm normally very thorough but I had box off thinking I had a to replace it and when I checked the flywheel it had far to much free play so my new 2 piece component in the engine had to be changed for a one piece unit so that consumed much of my time and energy
But all in all decent result considering I'm 2 cases down and in the middle of nowhere and the nearest mechanic couldn't look at it for 3 weeks
Totally will adapt back to do it right the 1st time
 
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