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nissan
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi all.

well, after a rather depressing afternoon with my trol, and having to cut off the A/C belt, as the idler pulley has diapered (although the bearing is still there). and looking over it, i kinda just wish i didn't look at it.

it appears to be rusting on the block (i imagine that since its an iron block that it will. but there is what looks to be a lot there) and that rust seems to have carried over to the vac pump on the alternator, and the exhaust manifold, and the entire exhaust (not to much of a worry, i wana turbo it) and it also has a fairly large bit of rust forming in the A-pillar, as well as in the gutter above the drivers door. and the engine bay is a shambles, there is wires and mud stains and other crap all over the shop as well as a 2nd battery thats had the richard.

i think that all the body mounts are shagged, and i am unsure about the engine/gearbox (people are telling me that they are ok, but it rattles down real hard when reversing sometimes and turning off) the battery tray appears to have a mass amount of rust in it, prolly from the *****house battery that leaked everywhere. i think that the water pump is on the way out, as i have noticed coolant dripping from it before.

and i have spent a fair wad on getting the a/c to work properly, after one of the lines was pierced. (new pump, 3 gassings, new line)and the fu%cking thing still wont work properly (but im pretty sure i have found the leak).

and im saving for my turbo, but there is all this other *****, thats easily going to blow the turbo back another couple of years.

but rant over for the moment, and there is actually some tech i need help with.

the A/C idler pully appears to have diapered; and its just the bearing there. and i tried to turn the bearing by hand, and i think its seized. where can i get a new idler thingo from? its a NAtd42 Mav, with the after-market cooltemp A/C. and do i need to go for a genuine one? ow will an after market one suffice?

i just hope that there is an end to all this ****, i spose that im now paying for all the times i wasnt as gentle on it as i could have been. i think im just going to go more of a tourer and camper now, over fixing crap; its dirty, greasy, and costs to much.

cheers

jbates58

p.s: before anyone has a go about other people having a hard time around aus atm, i know. im also helping with the cleanup opperation for the qld floods. just that thinking about all the money i have spent on it, kinda pi$ses me off.
 

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nissan
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675 Posts
Sounds like a long period of lack of normal care and maintainence has come to haunt you.
You really have no one to blame, but yourself.
The "rattles" you mention, sound like engine and/or gearbox mounts.
I believe "Nizbits" is the answer for a complete idler assembly.
 

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nissan
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708 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well i dont think that its lack ov maintence. the body mounts are 20 years old and so would the a/c idler bearing and pully. and have pm'd nizz bits about the new body mounts, hopefully that will solve the problem. as im not to sure about the engine or g/box mounts, i think that they are. i hve been told by numerous people that they are.

cheers

jbates58
 

· Registered
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3,467 Posts
hi all.

well, after a rather depressing afternoon with my trol, and having to cut off the A/C belt, as the idler pulley has diapered (although the bearing is still there). and looking over it, i kinda just wish i didn't look at it.

it appears to be rusting on the block (i imagine that since its an iron block that it will. but there is what looks to be a lot there) and that rust seems to have carried over to the vac pump on the alternator, and the exhaust manifold, and the entire exhaust (not to much of a worry, i wana turbo it) and it also has a fairly large bit of rust forming in the A-pillar, as well as in the gutter above the drivers door. and the engine bay is a shambles, there is wires and mud stains and other crap all over the shop as well as a 2nd battery thats had the richard.

i think that all the body mounts are shagged, and i am unsure about the engine/gearbox (people are telling me that they are ok, but it rattles down real hard when reversing sometimes and turning off) the battery tray appears to have a mass amount of rust in it, prolly from the *****house battery that leaked everywhere. i think that the water pump is on the way out, as i have noticed coolant dripping from it before.

and i have spent a fair wad on getting the a/c to work properly, after one of the lines was pierced. (new pump, 3 gassings, new line)and the fu%cking thing still wont work properly (but im pretty sure i have found the leak).

and im saving for my turbo, but there is all this other *****, thats easily going to blow the turbo back another couple of years.

but rant over for the moment, and there is actually some tech i need help with.

the A/C idler pully appears to have diapered; and its just the bearing there. and i tried to turn the bearing by hand, and i think its seized. where can i get a new idler thingo from? its a NAtd42 Mav, with the after-market cooltemp A/C. and do i need to go for a genuine one? ow will an after market one suffice?

i just hope that there is an end to all this ****, i spose that im now paying for all the times i wasnt as gentle on it as i could have been. i think im just going to go more of a tourer and camper now, over fixing crap; its dirty, greasy, and costs to much.

cheers

jbates58

p.s: before anyone has a go about other people having a hard time around aus atm, i know. im also helping with the cleanup opperation for the qld floods. just that thinking about all the money i have spent on it, kinda pi$ses me off.
You should be able to get a replacement bearing for the idler pulley - I just replaced mine for a princely $9. Getting the blasted thing off and on again was a PITA, though. One short cut: you don't need to remove the other belts, just loosen the idler pulley and move it down as far as possible and the belt will come off. Means you can't drive it while that belt is off, though.

If the entire pulley is stuffed there's an aftermarket one available for about $50, but I'd bet it's just the bearing.

Good luck with it!!
 

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Hey just went through all this - sane deal - don't bother pulling the bearing out, it's too hard and time consuming - the bearing was about 18 dollars for me, plus needing to weld the bearing case to get it out, or 40 bucks from the same bearing place for thenew pulley - bolted straight on
 

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nissan
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708 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
well my pulley appears to have been melted off. as its just a bearing there. and i doubt a metal one would just disappear. i imagine it would shred the belt to pieces.

cheers

jbates58
 

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nissan
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354 Posts
Dont stress, GQ's are cheap to fix and easy to work on. Just get new bits as you find them. Stop your sh*t battery from leaking further and corroding more stuff. AC's nice to have but if your compressor is ok thats the expensive bit.

Waterpump? well everyone replaces these a couple of times in the life of a vehicle, moreso if we do 4By type stuff, I know it sux when it all comes at once but atleast you can have beer while you are dikin around replacin stuff, and just think once she is runnin ok it will be time to start pokin around with suspension.................. wouldnt trade it for the world, think of the places we get to in our trucks!
 
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