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Provent 200 Fitment

35K views 65 replies 30 participants last post by  Chip Tuning  
#1 ·
I fitted up the Provent 200 and thought would post my thoughts and issues.
I picked up the kit from Western filters but you could definitely save some cash if you sourced the hoses and clamps from elsewhere.
All up Costs
Provent Kit Plus drain Hose $324
8mm X 25mm Hex head nuts and bolts $10
Black Spray paint $7.99
Bracket $5

If you source the hoses yourself you will need(hoses fuel/oil rated)
20cm of 25mm hose
4 clamps to suit
1m of 12.5mm hose(grab 2m just in case of my measuring error!)
4 clamps to suit
2 X 25mm to 12.5mm copper reducers (plumbing section)
Drain hose
1m clear 12.5mm hose(2 more clamps)
Drain tap to suit(plug it with a bolt and clamp would do!)
The provent outlet/inlet is 25mm and the nissan fittings are 12.5mm

I actually used most of the hose because of a slight length judgement error!
The install was pretty basic.
Remove engine/intercooler cover.
You will see the small length of 12.5mm black hose running from the top of the engine to the air intake pipe. This is what you are replacing and plumming the Provent into.
I installed it behind that mounting point in front of the ABS so I have room for the dual batteries when that comes!
I used the bracket to mount to the body.
Don't ask what size, I took the provent mount into bunnings with me and found a perfect match.
I had to do this so the drain hose would not foul on the body.

First cut the bracket down(it was an angle bracket)
Using the first and last hole on the bracket, I positioned so I had to drill one new hole in the bracket and car mount for the second provent bracket hole closest to guard.
I did have to drill out the other holes slightly.
Fit your 25mm hoses and reducers to the provent and mount, Put clamps on after mounting or they catch and the other hoses and lines in the area.
Work out your length of 12.5mm hose from top of engine to Provent inlet (top one)I had to give mine a twist to cause it to snake into the right place/angle.
Test engine cover fit as the edge of it is like a razor and will rub and cut, mines just clear by a pube hair so to speak.

The bottom hose/provent outlet is a little bit tricky in this position but to get in the position I got it I pointed the intake inlet down a little. I did this it this way to get a little distance to the turbo
A better option would be to use copper pipe to extend the reducer and bend to where you want it rather then bending the hose which is ok but i will keep an eye on it. I think you can get a 25mm to 12.5mm reducer elbow which would be another option.
Any way the pics should tell you the rest.
All told took me about 2hrs including making the bracket
I will source an elbow and sort out the bottom hose
Oh yeah , drain hose snakes down to the chassis rail where I cable tied it , did have to shorten a little.
 

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#3 ·
Is one hose there a bit close to the turbocharger? Make sure it doesnt get too hot.

Otherwise nice install. I used a Bunnings angle bracket and turned it around on that to get the orientation, your mount has got me thinking about making some adjustments to mine.
 
#5 ·
I fixed up my bottom hose with a copper elbow and a little length of pipe
Doesn't seem to get any hotter being near the turbo
it actually is a good 6 inches off it and that's the cool side
Might do something similar with the top but really doesn't need it
 

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#7 ·
The inch to 1/2 inch reducer came with the provent kit but you can get from a hardware store, bunnings didn't have it but Hardware and General does
You will need one 1/2inch Elbow and a length of 1/2 copper pipe
It's simply then solder the elbow and reducer together using a piece of copper pipe long enough(mine was about 1 1/2 inches then add add length to put your hose on. That piece is about 10cms long but it doesn't have to be.
I was going to put another elbow and piece in so the hose went straight on but I don't think it needs it
 
#10 ·
Peter you may need to file a section out of the intercooler cover where it clears the hose by a pube hair because normal engine vibration will eventually rub on and damage the hose. I did it to mine, just a nice small half round section filed out to match the circumferance/profile of the hose. Just a thought.
Rob
 
#12 ·
I just took my intercooler cover off and put it in the shed.

I had tried to file holes and stuff so that nothing rubbed, but was never happy with it so i just took it off.

No ill effects so far.

Good job mounting yours! Well done!
 
#13 ·
Does it matter at what stage of NADS the catch can is installed?

I ask as i am beginning NADS and am currently installing the boost and pyro gauges on pillar pod. As I won't be doing all NADS at once, should the catch can be the next on the list or block egr, dawes, needle valve etc etc first?
 
#16 ·
Just finished the catch can today.

Went and sourced the gear as per this post. Began the install and found that the 1/2' outlet hose would not go over the fitting into the intake. I had a good look at the original hose and the two ends are definitely different. I found my 1/2" hose a little large for the PCV outlet but stuck with it and tightened the clamp a bit more. The intake fitting was 5/8 not 1/2".

After removing Pcv hose I used a long flat head screwdriver to push out the plastic restrictor instead of cutting the hose. I have heard that these hoses aren't cheap. Stick with it, with a little patience you will get it out.

What worked for me

pcv out
  • 1/2" fuel hose with restrictor clamped in same spot as original.
  • 1/2" to 1" brass reducer.
  • 1" hose to provent
pro vent out
  • 1'" hose
  • 1" to 5/8 brass reducer
  • 5/8 hose to intake fitting
all clamped with appropriate clamps

Drain
  • 13mm clear tube from bunnings retic section
  • 13mm poly hose clamps
  • tap
For the WA guys, Filter Discounters in Wangara sold me the provent 200 for $170 then head down Prindiville Dr to Hose Force for hose, fittings and clamps.
 
#22 ·
Just finished the catch can today.

Went and sourced the gear as per this post. Began the install and found that the 1/2' outlet hose would not go over the fitting into the intake. I had a good look at the original hose and the two ends are definitely different. I found my 1/2" hose a little large for the PCV outlet but stuck with it and tightened the clamp a bit more. The intake fitting was 5/8 not 1/2".
Hey mate. I am about to embark on this project, and am have trouble understanding why fittings would be different size each end? What size is the original hose? The original hose couldnt off had different size ends on it? I would of thought if it was 1/2 at the top it would be a 1/2 going into the intake pipe also? Just want to check before I go and get my stuff

Cheers
 
#17 ·
Do these provent 200 have a filter inside them that need replacing every so often, I have looked at the unit on ebay and see that they also sell the filters seperatly.

I currently have a catch can from cross country 4x4 but I seem to still get oil into the air intake, it is basically a rectangle box with baffles inside which are meant to change the direction of airflow back and fourth making the oil fall to the bottom off the can, it does catch some, just not that much, I still used the original PCV hose with the restictor, installed after the catch can before the intake pipe.

It doesn't seem to work effectively so I was thinking off updating to the provent 200, is this an effective unit, do people recommend it.

Cheers Kym.
 
#18 ·
Kymbo,

the pro vent 200 has a replaceable filter inside thats good for 100k so i believe. It's reported to catch 99% of oil. The way i look at it is for a little over $200 for the catch can, hoses, fittings and clamps you have filtered 99% of oil.

Now compare this to installing another version or homemade job initialliy at half the cost but only filtering 30 - 40 % of oil and increased hassle to fine tune.

It was an easy decision for me. No #$%&ing around. Go the provent
 
#19 ·
Can someone answer a question about the restrictor please?

From the pcv I have run 1/2" hose to a brass 1/2 to 1" reducer then to the catch can inlet. Now from memory, the internals of the reducer was small. By reinstalling the restrictor (from the original hose) into my new 1/2" hose am I restricting this process too much or will the provent bypass valve prevent pressure into sump? Should I leave the restrictor in place or remove it?

Welcome thoughts from more mechanically minnded folk.

cheers
 
#24 ·
Oldmate,

Take the hose off and you will see they are different.

I believe guys are getting away with 1/2" hose due to everyone using different types of hoses with different wall thicknesses. I used Pirtek MPH 1/2" hose and found the hose has a thick wall and would not fit. I went out and got some 5/8" hose and it fit snug.

I used brass reducers to join the two hose sizes and to save money I believe you could use poly pipe 13mm - 25mm reducers from the retic section of bunnings. the fitting to the intake is the same material!

As i said previously, I removed restrictor by pushing out with a long flathead screwdriver instead of cutting. You are able to keep the original hose as a spare.

hope the install goes well.
 
#30 ·
Couple of points from my install...

I managed to get the 1/2" hose onto the existing intake 5/8" fitting (after heating the hose in hot water and applying a smear of grease on the barbed end... and a bit of brute force and ignorance!)

Also my patrol has the ABS so it's a bit squashy for room. I found using the brass reducers (like in oldmate's photo above) wasn't the best option for me, as it made the hoses stick out too far and too close to the engine/turbo. So after a bit of searching I managed to get one of these fitting:
Image


I wrapped a bit of teflon tape around the threaded end and the 1" hose fitted perfect with a hose clamp.